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These are great looking cars and all of your "extras" real make it stand out. The black makes it look very sinister, love it.

Great looking color. Love the cars of that era but the models will use a LOT of foil.

The paint job looks fantastic. Since your going with a modern suspension and all, the engine question and hood clearance may dictate a later model drive train. I just pick up a 2013 Mustang Boss 302 on closeout at Hobby Lobby. I'm using the engine for another project that also has hood clearance issues. Just a thought.

I like what your doing with the hood. I have done something like this before and the hardest part is to keep the reliefs from the back side from showing thru. You might even try a gloss coat on just the hood to see if it comes thru before going to the final body color.

Looks like an interesting project. The old models were very well built at the time and should clean up well. Still in great shape for almost 30 years.

Wow, what a great looking build. Your thoughts on the fender flares, maybe just a very slight lip around the openings just enough to give them a little more finished look. The front spoiler with a stock bumper that is pulled close to the body would look very tough. Like the deep set wheels and the fairly stock looking interior.

I have tried the foil under the paint and had about a 50/50 success rate. You might think about the trim on the door you show. The detailing is very fine and will get lost under a couple coats of paint. What I have done with some success is to mask details like that with foil as a mask. After painting you can outline the trim with a blade and remove the foil. This will leave the small squares with only primer paint and will show the detail when you foil it.

Many cars built at this time would have simulated wood dash and window moldings. This was done to look like wood but was in fact metal. The one example you show with the real wood door cards I believe is a wagon. It may be that the "wood" treatment was on the deluxe models and the painted moldings were on the more standard models. There should be some Ford experts that could tell you for sure if the convertible had the "wood" dash. I think it would have, but I'm not an expert.

I believe #19 is for the horn button on the steering wheel. The instructions should show where the decals go. On the 1:1 car there was a small ford emblem on the glove box door under the button used to open the door. Maybe #18 ? There was another emblem on the trunk lid just below the truck key opening. The valve cover decals that you used were for the 272 and 292 cu. in. engines. The Thunder Bird decal was for the 312 cu. in. engine. The OEM valve covers would have been a semi gloss black, but this sort of thing often got changed when engine work was done. It was not uncommon to have to replace the old cork valve cover gaskets from time to time and it was not uncommon to paint the valve covers any way you wanted or maybe you only had red engine paint. Either way this is a great kit.

I have not had that problem but you could always use a small piece of Micro Fiber towel.

I know it seems strange and I agree with you about the quality of Revell kits. Part #250 is the interior floor boards including the rear seat. The interior is built up off of this part. Instructions show the completed interior mounted to the body before that assembly is joined to the frame. Part #65 is mounted on top of the frame before it and the body are put together. The two parts match up perfectly in the mockup stag and the toe board of #250 aligns with #65 perfectly and they both meet the firewall and all three parts come together perfectly. Just still got this gap. There doesn't seem to be a filler piece in the kit. I may just create a filler piece and be done with it. I just thought some one else may have run into this also.

I have used the clear plastic "stiffeners" that come under the top button of drees shirts. They are very thin and can be bent without the use of hot water. Rub the clear plastic between your finger and thumb to put a little heat into the plastic if need be. This will also keep it from getting any stress cracks in the plastic.

Wouldn't that just be fun to drive. I like the way you added the windows in the top.

I like the color combo. Great looking build.

Great job on the headlights. I like the smooth hood look, but the 1:1 T-Bird had the hood scoop added because the hood line was so low it wouldn't clear the air cleaner. What engine are you thinking of using ?

Could they be a wiring loom for the spark plug wires ?

Great paint job. Looks very "deep" and smooth. Wheels are a very personal thing. I had a set of these years ago on a 1:1 Chevy van. They have a natural rough finish on most of the center as cast. Some guys would paint this area to match the body color or a contrasting color like the interior or something. The model looks great either way you want it.

It sounds like you might have finally gotten your truck dialed in. I went thru a similar thing with engines on my '96 Chev. 2wd x-cab short bed a few years ago. Just a thought on the pending moves in your life, I.E. residence, business, family. If the truck is working good now you might want to wait until the dust settles with the new home, business, and new addition to the family before you look at new transportation. A mortgage company will look at any new payments, such as a new vehicle, or any other expenses when they qualify you for a new home loan. After you get moved in and get settled in your new business then you can better figure out what you want or need for transportation. May be a late model Challenger and keep the truck. I sold my '96 in '05 and still regret it. That same truck costs more now then when I sold it. If the truck is clear think long and hard , maybe it would be better to make it a secondary vehicle if you can. Hate to sound like your "Dad" but I like many others I have been there, done that, and have the T shirt. Good luck to you on all fronts.

I followed your build on this and it turned out perfect.

While not the type of build I personally would do, these are some of the nicest builds I have seen in a long long time. All three are out standing in fit and finish.

I'm working on the Revell '48 Ford 2 in 1 kit #4318. My question has to do with the gap on the floor boards. When the part # 65 flooring is attached to part #250 interior floor boards there is about a 1/4" gap that can be seen looking at the bottom of the floor boards. I'm I doing something wrong or is this just the way it is ? Everything else has just sort of fallen together with no problems so this has me scratching my head trying to think if something else is keeping this from meeting up as it should.

Great looking truck. If you are really unhappy with the whole chrome bumper/rub strips thing, you might think about painted the bumpers to match the body and keep the black rub strips. The mirrors could be painted to match the body or the secondary color. It still looks great the way it is.

The box art on the side looks very much like the box top on the new reissue. If you don't like the 5 spokes and want wheels that look like those on the box art I'll trade you with what ever I have that is close. I just prefer the old Americans.

Nice to see an old friend back in action. I have several reissues in the closet but I might buy another if they are including some of the old custom parts. Remember the Edsel wagon tail lights ? I think the clunky door hinges could easily be replaced or fixed to work better. I did a build last year where I trans planted the hardtop to the new Revell tudor and they meet up almost perfectly.

Very nice showroom type build. You don't even miss the emblems.