Bugatti Fan

Apart from a Ford logo an oval tank might not be too difficult to scratch build. In 1/8th scale you may be able to use a piece of small plastic drain pipe cut to length and compress it to the oval shape required. A small length of square or rectangular wood moulding could be used as an insert to compress the plastic tube to and form the shape. Drill a couple of very small counter sunk holes to take small wood screws top and bottom so the screw heads are below the surface and when screwed to the wooden insert use some filler to make good the surface. Or place the screw holes where the two bands are shown in the photo Ace put up placing the bands on afterwards to hide the screw heads.

Welcome Richard, I think this post needs to be in Car Kits News And Reviews as it is new product information and will get more views in there probably. It might also be an idea also to set up a link?

Really nice model. I can remember watching The Persuaders way back on UK TV. The casting of Tony Curtis and Roger Moore as the two main characters was masterful. Curtis playing the self made millionaire ex US Navy guy and Roger Moore as the quintessential English aristocrat Lord Brett Sinclair. I found it quite funny when Curtis kept referring to Moore sarcastically as 'My Liege' in the series! Cannot remember what car Roger Moore drove in the series though.

Ditto all previous comments ! Superb model !

Nice project. That Alfa was a splendid little car back in its day. Lovely body style. Just right with no fussy details. Got to drive one when current all those years ago. Quite an experience!

Should be a very interesting semi scratching to follow. Nice looking car.

Local Hobby Shops come and go. Currently more going than coming unfortunately due to on line shopping. The family run hobby shop numbers world wide are slowly declining unfortunately. I used to enjoy my Saturday afternoon trip to my LHS that was a sort of informal meeting place for like minded folk as well as buying our kits and bits. But like Dave said, maintaining a current list on this forum would be problematical as it not only needs someone to physically enter and delete information, but would rely entirely on feedback from all over the place. Would I think to inform this forum if a local hobby shop closed, moved or opened? Probably not like most others when it happens. Personally, I feel that a list would quickly become unviable as this particular area would be so changeable given a feedback reliance.

Good to hear ! Scale Motorsports stuff has always been of good quality. Hope they come over and do Telford like the old company. Let's hope someone like Matt also revives Motobitz on this side of the pond too!

Good suggestions already made. Another avenue might be look at plated wheels on toy cars that might be suitable.

I guess you like this Alfa Helmut ! Joking apart, this is an interesting project and a little bit different to the norm. Nice model(s) taking shape here.

Olfa products are designed primarily for artwork cutting rather than model making. Tamiya might well have the tool and blades marketed under licence using their own brand name as a model making tool. If your blade handle or blade is marked Olfa I suggest that you look towards art suppliers where you might have better luck finding an identical replacement. Alternatively, why not contact Olfa directly to find out if that blade is actually discontinued. It may not be, and could be that just Tamiya have stopped marketing it under licence. if all this fails there are plenty of alternative blades and handles on the market. It's not as though they are expensive being such a basic tool.

Said it in your last line Harry. ref Quality. You only get what you pay for. Don't know why anyone would cheapskate on blades when buying, as good quality blades are relatively inexpensive anyway, especially if bought in larger pack sizes.

A good idea from Greg to enable the slots to be narrowed for 90 degree cuts. I have a similar mitre box and will use this idea with a twist. Instead of cutting narrow strips to fit into the grooves in the base I will be cutting some pieces of MDF or Plywood to fit between the outer parts of the mitre box making a flat sacrificial base within.

Thanks for that info Matt. Would be interesting to see what happens to their product in the future, if anything does.

Don't know why the business closed Pete. No explanation was given on the closure notice that I read. But I did hear something about a year ago about them losing their principal designer who made their moulds. Whether it was true or just conjecture at the time is anyone's guess, but maybe there was something in it? Who knows? I went onto their site to look at their wire wheels oddly enough to buy some Jag wheels like yourself when I discovered that they had closed. Like I said, hopefully someone will buy out the tooling, 3D files and so forth and start producing from them again.

Real shame that the ship will end up as a sunken wreck to make an artificial reef. America has enough billionaires to have rescued this ship and made it into a museum ship and hotel like the Queen Mary. Even more so as the ship is American built and bears the name of the United States.

Went to look for some parts on the UK company Motobitz's website yesterday to discover that they had closed down operations. The notice of their closure stated that their G mail address would no longer be monitored and their Facebook activity curtailed. Sad to see them go as they marketed a nice range of high quality resin and 3D printed parts plus some very nice decal sheets. Hopefully someone else might buy out their stock, tooling, 3D files etc. So maybe we might see their products being marketed under another banner sometime soon.

Same scale interpretation by different manufacturers is bound to have slight differences, particularly on older kits defined by how measured and tooled up for ease of manufacture originally. No such thing as laser scanning of a prototype back then. As for after market, check that the parts are actually for the kit from a particular manufacturer to avoid discrepancy.

A combination of the UMM saw that has a blade that is thin and similar to an old fashioned Gillette safety razor blade and the small aluminium precision mitre block with the adjustable stop pictured to the right of the three in an earlier post is perfect for cutting smaller styrene extrusions and narrow strips accurately. Having a screw held stop built in is invaluable for repetitive accurate cutting to length of short pieces. The stop can be removed for cutting longer pieces to length also.

There are special mitre cutting boxes available that are designed for tools with extra fine thin blades. Dspiae might be a source for such a tool set.

A Dremel tool of similar can cause a lot of personal injury used incorrectly. misused As for industrial machinery. Lethal if misused ! For those who do not know the 'Bridgeport in the Garage' referred to in an earlier post is an industrial milling machine.

Even the lowest speeds of a Dremel might be a bit fierce for plastic. If the Dremel could be plugged into a speed reduction device it might be able to reduce the revs right down to a suitable speed. I think for accurate cutting the various fine hand saws would give much better control than using a Dremel or similar that might prove a bit cumbersome for this type of work. Don't get me wrong. The Dremel is a superb tool as I have one with some of their sccessories. But it's horses for courses and in this instance I would be going down the razor saw route. The Dremel would come into its own if building a rusted out vehicle using burrs from the inside to create where the dust is breaking through.

I have a Badger 200 and a Badger 100XF that have served my needs for many years. ( 30 odd ). Good, well made reliable workhorses. Paasche has been around a long time and make good airbrushes. There has been a number of changes happening over the years in the airbrush market. DeVillbiss, a UK company made a range of very high quality airbrushes way back under the trade name Aerograph, but never seriously targeted the model making market. Iwata plus Harder and Steenbeck arrived later with high quality instruments. Biggest change has been the large influx of bottom end airbrushes quality wise offering all bells and whistles included to entice the buyer. But you only get what you pay for. Constant usage demands a high quality airbrush for reliability alone. The cheap clones might be ok for the very infrequent user however. As far as compressors go, best get one with a reservoir tank to maintain constant pressure and a moisture trap.

Very realistic looking build Pierre.

You have to hand it to those guys who design those Metal Earth kits to go together by slot and tab assembly considering their finished size when built. That Terminator Endoskeleton looks really good. Mike, if you are looking for a large scale Terminator model one of the die cast part series kit manufacturers has one. Not life size, but big !