Bugatti Fan

We buy intending to build. Reality kicks in. We sell and generally make a loss! Joking apart, modellers of a certain age need to make a list of where best to dispose of stashes. All too often bereaved relatives who do not know the worth might just have it all dumped! Dealers don't pay top dollar but better to get something rather than nothing if it gets thrown into landfill.

Problem many have is over pricing second hand kits. I went to a local model show here in the UK and one guy hired a table and sold all his unwanted kits at knockdown prices. His mission was to get rid of a pile of stuff cluttering his place up. Table was cleared by the end of the day. A win win situation. He got rid of all his unwanted stuff and punters got a bargain or two (or three or four)!

Maybe this site needs to review its policy about buying and selling between individuals. Perhaps it could allow lists of kits and other modelling items for sale provided that there is a disclaimer of any responsibility on the forum 's part, and that any sales are done privately where forum users have to PM their personal email addresses to one another in order to negotiate on a personal level. Therefore any sales and purchases become purely private transactions made strictly off site between individuals, and the site will have absolutely no involvement in any disputes that may arise between said individuals.

C1 Polishing Powder over a Gloss Black is good, durable when buffed to a shine and you get plenty in a tub. The Revell product seems a bit pricey. I wonder if they will supply it in bottles for air brush use? A good hard reasonably priced chrome finish is a bit of a holy grail to most car modellers but someone might crack it one day, sooner rather than later.

There is a company named Motobitz in the UK who also make 3D printed wire wheels for the E Type in 1/24th and 1/32 nd scales.

Espo mentioned using automotive primer on resin especially. I tend to use aerosol acrylic automotive primer on all my models and find it works well on just about everything. Saves all the faff of keep setting up an airbrush or keep going from one modelling primer to another.

Really interesting thread. Model coming along nicely with good reference to details.

You did not mention it you thoroughly cleaned the resin body of any residue mould release agent and keyed it with fine wetndry or similar, washed it off and dried it beforehand. The fact that you stripped the paint job that went wrong forced a thorough clean up, so maybe that is why the next paint job went on OK. If you did all the proper clean up first time around it is a bit of a mystery as to why the paint job failed. Maybe there was some incompatibility with what was used? Acrylic over oil based paints like enamel and lacquers can lead to problems, but generally not the other way around as a rule. We all get paint failures at some time of other, and not always possibly know why!

Remember all those nice 1/32nd scale Classic Car kits by Pyro? They had quite a range back in the day. Did they go to Atlantis I wonder along with all the other Pyro kits for ships and other subjects? Also Pyro had the moulds from Impact, a small UK manufacturer who made a small range of four inter war aircraft .in 1/48th scale. Gloster Gladiator, Fairey Flycatcher, Hawker Fury and Bristol Bulldog that were all beautiful, very well detailed kits. I wonder if Atlantis has those too?

That Hobby Design kit looks the business!

Where do you get a scale model kit of one?

Lovely little model taking shape here. Tameo have an enviable reputation in the world of 1/43rd, so a very good starting point for your model.

Erik, you can probably take some resin casts from the spare wheel of you want to make a model without hub caps on the wheels.

Surprised that this vehicle was never kitted by AMT, MPC or Ertl back in the day.

It is understandable to be irritated and annoyed if your model is captioned incorrectly in a magazine having gone to print. But we all make mistakes and the editor did his best to apologise and make amends by getting a specially corrected copy printed up for Steve. At least he tried to resolve the matter personally with Steve in the best way he could. I would guess that an apology in all probability will also appear in the next edition.

This has to be the very best and finest scratch built model car that I have ever seen, and in 1/24th scale of a very complex car subject built with a Swiss watch maker's precision. A true master artisan modeller craftsman Cannot say more! The recognised masters like Olive Sans, Wingrove, Brianza and Conte's models are very large in comparison like 1/15th, 1/10th and 1/12th scale.

Project coming on well. Wish someone would do a TR4 in 1/24th scale?

Glad you saw the funny side! Cheers! ?

Bill, Would you mind repeating that! LOL!

A company named Squires in Bognor Regis, Sussex in the UK has acquired all the South Eastern (ex Wills) Finecast and Auto Kits moulds. Not sure if Scale Link ever owned South Eastern Finecast / Auto Kits, although listing the kits along with loads of other items they sell. Wills as was, made a range of nicely detailed 1/24th scale white metal car kits. They acquired the Auto Kits range of car kits, again in white metal that were generally less detailed than the Wills kits. I have a Wills Bugatti T59 that is well detailed and an Auto kits MG TD that is a kerb side model with no engine detail. Both nice kits in their own right. If anyone wants an MGA kit, the only one I am aware of is by a company named Wespe in Romania. The kit is in resin but is a very big 1/8th scale kit. The have a range of classics in this large scale that do not look to be highly detailed but would make the basis for some super retailers to get to work on.

Like Tom, stick with the manufacturer's own thinner. It is formulated to be used with their specific paints.

Quite a number of the spray on finished chromes go dull if further coats are applied. A good chrome finish is a bit of a holy grail for car modellers generally. The nail polish chrome sounds interesting as it has to go off very hard, hence the UV to set it off. A black gel was mentioned as a base for this stuff but sounds as though it has to be brush painted on. If the black underpaint could be air brushed and UV set as well as the clear top coat after the chrome is buffed and the clear top coat air brushed and also set with UV it might well be the answer. However, many nail finishing products contain some quite fierce chemicals that may or may not attack plastic. I would imagine a trawl of the web will be able to show such products in use and their application. I will be sticking to my C1 Polishing Powder for now.

I have been using C1 Polishing Powder. Spray a gloss black in the usual way as the underpinning colour. Does not matter if Acrylic, Lacquer or Enamel. It is simply buffed onto the black with a cotton wool swab like a Q Tip or very small make-up applicator. Just buff it until the desired polished up effect is required. The good thing is that it is quite durable and resistant to handling too. You get quite a good sized tub of it that will last for ages. If you want to see how it looks, go onto the thread 'Let's see some scratch built thing's where you will find a picture of my Napier Railton where I used it on the body. C1 is a UK based company and besides the polishing powder they make a very nice range of resin trans kits.

Glad to hear that you are getting your money refunded Mike. The problem is with most scams, they are deliberately set up to look legitimate, after all they are com artists and that is what they are good at! Guys, generally it is best to use a credit card rather than a debit card for many transactions as I believe that the company is technically loaning the money to you and therefore taking the risk I believe. A debit card transaction is just the same as it you have paid cash so there is generally no redress if a problem occurs.

Mike, hopefully the model kits your wife ordered are not expensive ones and you can put it down to experience. However, check your bank or credit card accounts to see if any other monies have been taken just in case. Also look to see if they have an address and a land line phone number.