Ace-Garageguy

Thanks. I'd really like that, and the plan is to drive the wheels off the thing when it's done.

Sure. Common-core "educated" postal employee who didn't successfully discriminate between Arizona and Alaska. Who needs to know where states are, anyway...especially if you're an essentially un-firable salaried employee and competent performance of your job isn't an issue. A machine-illegible address or zip could also be part of the problem, and with no intelligent human intervention... It'll probably go to Arkansas next.

Page three, this thread...

Thanks. This is the one I'd finish up first if I had the time.

Start with a Nomad?

Yup...a S.C.o.T.-blown Ardun-Ford in a '33 3-window...most definitely my kinda car. NOTE: This Revell kit has a very good Ardun. No S.C.o.T. blower, but it's a start. The ancient AMT '57 Chevy has a sorta S.C.o.T blower too...

AND...the consensus is that you can get a good start with a '34 Ford. If you're working in 1/25, I'd suggest trying to find the 1/24 scale Monogram '34 Ford kit. As the Plymouth/Dodge cars are slightly larger than the contemporary Ford products, you'd be a little closer.

Some years back, I built a 354-powered '33 Plymouth coupe... Back in 2013, a fella in Oz was working on that era Dodge and Plymouth resin masters... Here's another thread about the roadster...

It's not the sentient beings I'm particularly concerned with. Far as I'm concerned, at least half of homo sapiens fail to qualify.

S'okay. I already have a 55 gallon drum to seal myself into, and 50 feet of 5/16" tow chain to lash it to a 150-year-old Joshua tree that's most likely lived through dozens of haboobs.

You can bet their bean counters are making interest on the "float". The longer they can delay a completed transfer, the more they stand to make. In economics, float is duplicate money present in the banking system during the time between a deposit being made in the recipient's account and the money being deducted from the sender's account. It can be used as investable asset, but makes up the smallest part of the money supply.

Depending on what scale you're working in, clear fishing line works very well. The red stuff works for old-school red neoprene fuel line too. It comes in lotsa diameters, but it's generally only really appropriate for 1/24/ -1/25 etc.

In case nobody's noticed, Google Pay is pushing hard to unseat PayPal. Google already has a stranglehold on information, and along with their toady YouTube, very obviously engages in widespread censorship. Don't give them access to your banking info.

Thanks, Carl. Yup, still moving, but stuck here until I finish up my part of a high-end '66 Chevelle I promised I'd see through to the end. Getting close to engine-start, and not too long after that I can hand it off to paint. Then I'll move the first truckload to the place in Az.

Ho baby...smokin' hot design. Fine proportions, yes indeed. VERY nice work here...

Full scale, running and drivable versions of these two original designs... https://contest.techbriefs.com/2010/entries/transportation/871 1/10 scale wind-tunnel model: Full scale body plug in progress back in '97: 1/8 scale mockup:

EDIT: The stuff on the floor is packing peanuts from the dozens of kits I bought this year that I'll probably never get to.

This is also excellent advice. The molding process will duplicate EXACTLY anything that's on your master. ANYTHING. EXACTLY. If your surface finish is, say, 400 grit sanding scratches, that is what every part pulled from the molds will have too. I've seen countless "experts" and "professionals" who, for some unfathomable reason couldn't grasp this fact, and wasted untold hours correcting parts that were halfassed as masters...a stupid waste of time that's entirely avoidable if you get your masters PERFECT.

Nice pix. One would have needed the patience of Job to put up with the glacial "acceleration" of that mountain of iron and steel powered by a flathead six. Jeez...I remember when trucks were slow.

Very nice. Wheels look perfect for it too.

^^^ Heed Mark's words. Pretty much exactly what I would have advised, and I also have decades of working with various casting and other composite materials. There are many good and CORRECT sources of information from the manufacturers of casting products, including excellent videos. Here are some: https://www.smooth-on.com/tutorials/ https://www.freemansupply.com/library/video https://www.polytek.com/how-to/tutorials-videos

I always liked these little engines. My first "professional" engine swap was a 215-hp OHC 6 and a Powerglide stuffed into a Jag MkVII that had a bad rod knock. With about 50 additional horsepower and considerably less maintenance required, it made a nice, drivable car at a time when such a mod wasn't looked upon as sacrilege.

I really liked the proportions, lines, and stance of your first mockup, thought it was spot-on for a radical yet practical, drivable rod. I actually think it was much more attractive than your 1:1 inspiration. You would, of course, need to section the grille to get sufficient ground clearance, but careful juggling of the proportions would keep the look.