Fat Brian

The 69 Cobra thread on the first page got me the thinking about replicating my dad's first car, a 68 LTD two door. Does anyone currently make any resin parts for a conversion? I need the hide away headlight grille from the LTD wagon and a formal top body.

I finally got the Mustang up on it's feet. For me this is when I really get my first real indication of the attitude of the car. I added side scoops and a modern style spoiler to the bodywork. Unfortunately the seats I was planning on are too wide to fit in the interior so I've got to look for some other options.

You can make a paint booth pretty cheap out of a large cardboard box, an a.c. filter, and an intrinsically safe vent fan. For a little more you can make a frame out of 1" pvc and cover it with clear plastic and use the same filter and fan. Here are plans for a portable booth which is probably right up your alley since you don't have a permanent work area. There are plans out there for free for any size booth imagineable.

I know that's different too, I was speaking specifically about the engine.

I dont think it's the wheels, they don't say Dayton on them and they seem generic enough to not be an issue. As for the engine, I know the exhaust manifolds are different. My Eagle II kit is missing one and 4070A manifolds won't work. I seem to remember the Eagle kit being single stack and the 4070A being dual stack, maybe that is the difference.

Chuck, are you saying the Transtar kit is gone too or just the A version?

Looks like the Toyota kit is the 1/20 Lindberg kit.

Okay, I may get that Vicky kit just for the parts.

I want to build a salt flats car out of the Monogram 32 Ford convertible and would really like a Duvall style windshield but I've never seen one for that kit. Does anyone know where I could find one?

To post pics you can drag and drop them once you click in the "reply to topic "box or click on the "click to choose files" button to manually select them. Once the picture has uploaded you hit the little plus sign on the lower left of the picture to add it to your comment. I'm glad you were able to save it, a good way to think about it is that any scratch you put in the body you're going to have to get back out. Using the least aggressive paper that can do the job is a good way to save yourself work in the end. I strongly agree with Rob about the nail files, find yourself a Sally beauty supply or similar and invest in 10 or 15 dollars worth of nail files. I use the pink fine grit and blue medium grit the most but having a black coarse grit around comes in handy for removing a lot or material quickly.

The 4070 has round lights where the Transtar has square bezels, the 4070 has a non turbo motor where the Transtar has a turbo, the 4070 has Dayton wheels and an air ride rear suspension but the Transtar has Alcoa fronts, five hole rears and a walking beam rear end. The Transtar was out in the 90's so it most likely still exists in that form but they probably can't do the 4070 again without some retooling.

You probably need to go back with something finer than 120 before the polishing stick. Since the primer is already on try some 1000 grit to smooth things out and shoot another thin coat of primer to check your work.

Rival Sons doing CCR's Long as I Can See the Light Rival Sons doing Any Winehouse's Back to Black Rival Sons doing Nobody's Fault But Mine

Do you think layering two decals on top of each other might true the color up a bit?

I would love a generic belly tank kit with a few different windshield arrangements and a couple engine options. I think a hopped up model T four banger, a flathead, and a modern four or straight six would make an interesting kit with tons of possibilities.

Snake, if I remember correctly the issue of this kit I have had that stripe as a decal in yellow and white.

Yep, the same thing has happened to me three times this week. First I realized I traded away the engine to a kit I really want to finish now and now the kit is very expensive to replace, then I found l had traded away two AMT Supra kits l now need parts from, and then I went hunting a Corvette kit to find I'd traded it. I think I'm going to stop trading because I never remember what's gone when I need it.

From what I've heard it wasn't so much the styling as it was that it competed with other Ford and Mercury models so know one knew exactly what the car was supposed to be. Add to that an economic downturn and an unestablished model failed.

Personally, I would paint the entire bezel then go back with bare metal foil and resilver the light backs. This makes for the least amount of masking while still getting a sprayed finish.

Thank you, the engine fit is tougher than I expected. That rascal is long and with the intake and exhaust ports on the same side the passenger side of the engine bay is going to be a bit crowded. I'm trying to find a cheap modern Mustang to rob the rear suspension from.

Okay, that will work, thank you.

Does any Japanese kit come with a Toyota or Lexus v8 engine? Anything between the 4.0 and 5.7 would be fine but bigger would be better.

Personally, I don't mind the front fenders. I'm never going to build a stock Stroppe Bronco but will be building a few typical custom style Broncos and the absence of front flares would have caused me some problems.

Based on some discussion in another thread this kit has the wrong engine for the year of the body style, it has the old v6 engine while the body style represents a year that only an AMC v8 should have been available. If you want the correct engine it comes in the Honcho kit.

I've got some things done on the Mustang, I made a custom intake/exhaust manifold and combined a 2000ish hood with the stock one to get a nice modern look. I also got the wheels mostly ready for paint.