Fat Brian

Its really trial and error until you figure it out. Each door or whatever moves a little differently and where your attachment points are will dictate the shape the wire needs to be.

Perfect

Okay, the top part of the rear bumper piece tucks just behind the lip of the trunk lid instead of being flush with it like you have it there. If you tape the brake light pieces in place it will give you a nice mounting edge to put against the trunk lip so you can tack the bumper in.

The Revell 68 Vette has a nice blown 427. The valve covers might be a bit modern depending on what you're doing but those are easily swapped.

Maybe the 302 from one of the Revell 32 Fords? Those engines are positively tiny. If you want to do something crazy you could put a 2JZ straight six from an AMT Supra in it.

I'm only 38, I know my comment sounded old though. I can tell the difference in new trucks but they're just not stylistically interesting to me. It's not just trucks, most new cars don't do anything for me either.

I seem to remember having to sand the top of the carbs down a bit to get my hood to fit correctly. With the giant air cleaner installed you can barely see them anyway so you wont miss a 32nd or so off the top. You could also try shortening the motor mounts a hair but you have to be careful because you can only go so much before the oil pan hits the crossmember and starts to hang distractingly low.

You're not wrong. Today aerodynamics drives so much of vehicle design that it's hard to have truly distinctive styling. They try to spice it up with lines and vents and gills and grilles but there's only so much they can do. That's why I really don't care if they ever make another kit of a new truck, there are two dozen old trucks I'd rather have over anything recent.

I'd like to have another one for my Mach 1 kit but don't really want to buy an entire kit for one piece. If there is a resin option I'd love to have one.

I would use the new 1/25 69 Boss 302 kit and graft on the 1/25 69 Shelby front end. The Boss kit doesn't have the rear quarter vents like the Mach 1 does and you can trade off the extra bits for a 429 engine.

The best way to contact him is through Ebay, I've asked for an email address and wasn't given one.

Okay, I guess I'll throw an update out there. I'm trying hard to resist adding the Saleen kit to this car, I want to keep this build pretty simple so it gets done and the fender extensions/rear spoiler treatment look pretty difficult to pull off. I'm getting the big pieces together so I can start painting if the rain ever decides to stop. My first set of wheels didn't have tires and I couldn't find anything in my stash to fit them so I ordered some cheap sets of Aoshima wheels and tires to borrow from. To my surprise one of the sets had big and little tires but the bigs wouldn't fit the rear without a mini tub job. In the spirit of keeping it simple I went with four matching tires and the set of rims that looked more like the ones on the movie car, they're currently in a bath of 409 to dechrome them. My initial wheels, beautiful but not like the movie car. Not as nice wheels but closer to the movie, surprisingly comes with big and little tires even though the rims are all the same width. Getting ready for paint.

You should check with the site. Just because the file is in the correct format doesn't mean it will print in a way that will produce a buildable part. Normal 3d models can't be printed because the model doesn't assign a thickness or density to the parts. The model is just points in a three dimensional space with faces connecting them. The computer figures out which faces to display based on where the camera is positioned but they don't have any physically reproducible form. Programs like AutoCAD let you assign attributes to parts of the model which allow it to be recreated. If I could I would love to print some of the models I've built in the past.

USCP sells the teddy bear wheels in 14 and 17 inch.

On the couple flat finishes I've done I've used Dullcote over the color. It seems to be less susceptible to skin oils and polishing from handling or riding in the box than just flat paint.

That's true, the new Ford motors are very wide. If that won't fit you could rob a Foose truck for the modern 427 and wheels and tires, I can't remember what transmission is in there though.

Get you a 5.0 Coyote motor from one of the new Boss Mustangs with a six speed transmission to help with fuel economy. There are a couple places that do them in resin. The Revell 2014 Boss Mustang will have the engine and big wheels and brakes to borrow.

I'll probably get a couple of these and demote the one I have to a parts kit, mine is one of badly warped 90s reissues.

This is from the Superboss kit and a picture of the real deal. The cranks that connect the axle to the torsion bar are outside the frame on the front axle and inside the frame on the rear. Hope this helps.

Yep, I've owned that album for probably 25 years. Overall it's pretty good if you like 90s bands.

Yeah, rc trucks have gotten incredible lately. I've been struggling a lot not to get one because I know once I do I'll have to have a dozen of them.

Calling it a chest puts me in the mind of those old deep freezer type chillers with the sliding top.

They both look like long beds to me.

Y'all can thank me for the 88 Mustang, I overplayed for one earlier this year. I still could use another one though for the body kit. I'll have to see if the headlights from the Revell notchback fit it.

The issue with most spray booths is the fan. You need either an intrinsically safe fan that won't ignite the fumes or a fan that keeps the fumes and motor separate from each other.