Fat Brian

The interior of the GMC is very weak and the door panels are almost completely flat. I'm going to be building a few of these kits eventually so I figured I'd try my hand at dressing it up a bit. I cut the seat out and built an actual tub for the interior. Then I added the arm rests and wood trim along with the door handles and window cranks. I also added a floor shifter and removed column one. The dash is stock but I robbed the gauge decals from the Camo truck. I went with a brown two tone figuring it would hide dirt better than other colors.

The interior of the GMC is very weak and the door panels are almost completely flat. I'm going to be building a few of these kits eventually so I figured I'd try my hand at dressing it up a bit. I cut the seat out and built an actual tub for the interior. Then I added the arm rests and wood trim along with the door handles and window cranks. I also added a floor shifter and removed column one. The dash is stock but I robbed the gauge decals from the Camo truck. I went with a brown two tone figuring it would hide dirt better than other colors.

It's a decent difference, compare the Monogram 70 GTX/Roadrunner to the AMT 68/69 GTX/Roadrunners or the Monogram 32 Ford to the Revell 32 Fords.

The 1/25 Revell kits.

I think your best bet is the Shelby kits, that engine is great and those kits are very easy to find.

That is very interesting, it's similar to saying one word of a book isn't copyrightable. It's the work as a whole distinct construction that makes the whole protectable.

That looks really good, very nice job.

I did, I just looked at pics online and copied the basic shape and layout. It looks more like a Lincoln unit but I'm going to paint it medium blue like a Miller unit for a bit of color. If you look closely behind the stack I put louvres on the front for the radiator, I cut up a 32 Ford hood side to get them, and since ed I took these pics I put an old hub cap on the back to simulate the end of the generator. I'm going to use some gauge decals for the dials.

I've been working on the frame and getting the engine together. I've got the shocks on and added a steering stabilizer. I took the engine from a mid 2000s NASCAR kit and am building it to look like a small block crate motor. It's been a while since I plumbed an engine and it felt nice to flex those muscles again.

I've been working on the frame and getting the engine together. I've got the shocks on and added a steering stabilizer. I took the engine from a mid 2000s NASCAR kit and am building it to look like a small block crate motor. It's been a while since I plumbed an engine and it felt nice to flex those muscles again.

Thanks, yours too.

I'm very intimidated by it since I'm going to have to do a custom interior too. I'm just going to take it once piece at a time and see what happens. Thanks for the compliment, I'm still hoping I didn't completely wreck my build.

Wheel set #2 is here, these are 20" big and little Rotoforms from Factory 81. Now I can get back on this project again. I also found a Viper chassis from a kit my father in law couldn't get finished so I'm going to make an entire custom frame setup.

If you have a Deserter or Fall Guy truck you can use that bed to get the measurements.

Thank you, 1/25 is fine.

Does anyone make Predator carbs in resin? I've got plenty in the three in a row configuration from the USA-1 kit but they're not as correct as I'd like.

Excellent, I'm glad to hear it.

Coming from you that's high praise. There's still plenty of time for me to screw it up, I haven't even started painting it yet.

This just started at the right time for me when my bench was clear. I just finished the L9000 and custom Caddy so all I had going on was the CBR Mustang but I'm still waiting on a second set of bigger wheels for that. I was kind of stalled when this was posted so I was able to jump right in.

Thank you, I think I might shorten the stacks in the final assembly. They're just tacked on so I could snap some pics and get a feel for the look of it.

I'm a bit late with the update but I think it was worth the wait. The part I robbed from this kit was the bed so I had to replace it with something. I built the flat bed from Evergreen and some diamond plate. Once I had the bed I needed to populate it with something. I added the roll bar, a storage box on the driver's side, a jerrycan rack, a bed mounted fuel tank, a tool box, a spare tire mount, and a welding machine with a post for the leads. I cut the front fenders for more tire clearance and used the rims from the Deserter truck.

Okay, this my first major update for this build and I wanted to explain a bit about my design philosophy. First, a weekend warrior is someone who is usually ballin' on a budget so I didn't want to use a collectible vehicle or something with hard to find parts as a base. This should ideally be something you can bash around without feeling bad about a few dents and dings. You can't get much more ubiquitous than a square body GM truck. It also meant that the truck would likely be a Jack of a trades type instead of a dedicated rock crawler or mud buggy. Something you can have fun in in lots of different types of locations but might not be the best for each situation. Second, the vehicle should already have decent components for inexpensive modification. This ruled out similar era Ford products due to the TTB front end. GM's solid axle front is a much better platform for modification. I had intended to run the standard five lug wheels to indicate the stock Dana 44 and 12 bolt but I couldn't find five lug rims that fit the tires good enough. With all the weight I've added to the rear it probably does need upgraded axles now. Third, since the truck needed to be a daily driver recoverability and survivability are important. Getting back to go to work Monday is a big part of this things job. I put a storage bin on the driver's side for tools and recovery items and the jerrycans will hold different fluids that might get lost on the trail. I took off the stock fuel tanks and replaced them with a bed mounted tank under the roll bar. The welding machine on the passenger side will let you fix any busted pieces and let you get back on the trail.

I would post it in the tips and tricks section.

Hopefully they will keep some of the US team on. Revell was already profitable, it just had the rest of the Hobbico boat anchor around its neck. Blitz got to cherrypick money making bits from a big pile of debt and got it at as severe discount so maybe they won't feel huge pressure to make a ton of changes right away.