64Comet404

I wish that Atlantis could find the Bekins van body and other bits that originally came with the Kenworth. There was a caster who made a resin copy of the parts years ago, but can't remember who it was.

Even the Chevrolet stake truck and Ford pickup are nice, though the wheels/tires on the Ford could use some finesse.

Considering it's age, the kit is actually pretty nice. It's amazing the amount of detail Revell was able to engrave back in the mid-1950s.

Water works well, though you can use distilled water if you're worried about any effects from using tap water.

Good looking model. I remember watching the race when JD was killed, and it seemed to take forever for any news to be given to the broadcast team.

Great looking build, Steve, love what you have done with the kit. I have a similar project planned to replicate my dad's '62 Impala convertible (his first car, and the car he drove when my parents first met). Have the kit, now need the time to build it!

The Hudson Miniatures were basically the first product from what would eventually become Auto World. IIRC, more plastic components appeared in these kits once the Gowland/Revell Highway Pioneers series appeared, but I can't remember if they ever went to full plastic models in this series.

Went out shopping today for another display case for built-ups. While I was searching through the antique shops, I found a few items (as well as the cabinet).

Running a 351HO with a 4 speed and 3.91:1 rear end, I was more concerned about the fuel bill if I tried to get to 100 mph! The tach would show 3200-3400 RPM while driving in the 60-65 mph range, and that engine loved to drink fuel. The hubcaps never flew off on mine. Some low-life stole the tires, rims, and caps from the car while it was in winter storage. When we sold the car, it was riding on generic steelies with a set of five-slot aluminum wheels in the trunk (which I think came off an AMC product).

We have enough kits with Magnum 500 wheels, give us the trim rings and hub caps, please. And, please, make them separate parts! I will gladly take a new-tool '71-73 Mustang, followed by Javelins and many other performance cars of the era. Hopefully there will be a time when they make a notchback, so I can replicate my High School ride.

I would like to see it with the extra 4WD parts, and parts to make the earlier front end too. My dad had two of these when I was younger, both GMC S15 4x4 regular cabs with the 8 foot box. They were great trucks to drive, wish I could have kept one.

These pictures are of a Salvino's Olds 442 rear spoiler. It once was chrome, now it is stripped. It can be done, but it takes time! Dave, it is possible to strip the chrome. Put the parts you want stripped and cover them with bleach. It takes time for the bleach to react with the metal, but eventually you will start to see some black particulate in the bleach. Dump the bleach out, scrub the part with a toothbrush, and cover with fresh bleach. Repeat until clean. You have to leave the parts to soak for at least 12-24 hrs per session. This is a method that I learned from a builder on the Salvino's Facebook group, and it does work! Good luck with stripping the parts!

You can try buffing it with a piece of denim or flannel, and see if it smooths out. It all depends on how coarsely your file cut into the tire.

I have placed my pre-order for the book. Hopefully it arrives at the supplier soon.

I've seen fibreglass overlays for later 'Vettes to replicate the split window, they never look right. Why don't the owners just go all the way and add an extra pair of taillights while they're at it?

Thanks to everyone who replied!

Chad has some' interesting' ideas on customization. Some work, and some do not. For me, it's almost like watching a mechanic's version of Trailer Park Boys.

The bleach will work, but it takes a longer amount of time. You need to put the parts in bleach, leave until the bleach is full of black specks (usually overnight), and scrub the parts under water. Repeat the process with fresh bleach, and keep going until the part is cleaned. It took me 6 sessions with the bleach, but the chrome is off! WARNING: Do not put a lid on the container you are using. The process does generate gases, so leave the container open, and in a well-ventilated area!

One engine kit yet to be mentioned is the Revell 1:3 scale Ford Turbo four-cylinder. I bought one of these to replace the one I partially built and wrecked as a kid. Unfortunately there were missing pieces, and some warped parts (the camshaft is banana-shaped!). I hope that the next one I find at a reasonable price won't have the same damage.

I was at an estate sale for a member of my IPMS chapter, and found these alignment jigs still in the box.One of those items I had always meant to order from a supplier, but never did. Some sanding and fitting, and I am hopefully ready to start building some fresh aircraft!

Does anyone cast one? I have had two built-ups, but haven't been able to find a front bumper. Thanks!

Here you go!

Picked up some cars at tonight's club meeting/trunk sale.

The vermillion decals are quite nice, but they do require some techniques to make them work well. Have plenty of Micro Sol and Solvaset on hand, as well as a hairdryer. After finishing the decals, I wish I would have clear coated the body after applying the vermillion decals, because I did get a bit of silvering in some spots (not really visible, but I know it's there).

I completed this kit today. This is the JR Salvino's kit, including the extra vermillion red decals. Built mainly OOB, but I did add valve stems to the tires. The newly tooled body builds well, but builders will want to take about 1/8" off the back of the hood mounts. This will help the body sit lower on the frame, and if the hood slips out, you will not tear the STP decal against the base of the windshield (will have to order a new sheet with my next order).