64Comet404

Great job on replicating the show. I remember seeing some stills from that first episode, and you can see a '49 Ford in the background!

Molded in green, black, and clear, only comes with the front seat, the cargo are is bare.

Tamiya TS-49 Bright Red or TS-86 Pure Red over Tamiya pink primer. TS-49 is a touch more fluorescent to my eyes, but it's a matter of opinion.

I have one of those shelves for storing Vallejo bottles, highly recommended!

The best '57 Nomad I have seen was a resin transkit from Scale Equipment Ltd., which uses the old tool AMT '57 Bel Air as a donor. I don't know if it is still available, though.

I would first try soaking it in warm water. If it is stringy, there is a chance that it is some form of rubber cement. If that doesn't work, you can try using CA de-bonder to separate the joints (small quantities, though-it can mess up the plastic if not careful).

The grille outside the headlights represents the cornering light option. Available on both SS and non-SS cars.

Back in the day, I used to use Stop Light Red to touch up the maroon paint on my 1980 Malibu. Airbrushed over black, it was a very close match for that colour (really helpful when I built my Monogram '86 MCSS).

Decided to lay down some light coats on a dragster body this morning, so I taped the body halves to the stands and went outside. Just as I was laying down the colour on the bottom half of the body, the tape decided to let go! I managed to pick it up and spray the scrapes (hoping for some self-levelling), but I know I will be in for some sanding in a few days.

Looks good, never quite pictured it in yellow and white before...

Great looking build, love how you have integrated the old and new together!

I've seen it on the magazine rack, but haven't been able to get into it the way I did when I was a kid. I see that Krass and Bernie has returned to CarToons now that Car Craft is defunct, but buying a magazine for four pages of artwork is not my thing, unfortunately.

Great job on the figures. I like the fact that is shows Taarna as she is in the movie, and not the rouged-up version that you see on the movie poster.

For a kit with so few parts, this has been taking a long, long time. The biggest challenge has been the paint, since the factory touch-up paint takes about three days to cure sufficiently to put it in the dehydrator, and a couple of days for the paint odour to fade. The upside is a finish that should withstand nearly anything I may do to it! Since I want the wagon to appear used, but not worn out, I applied some masking agent to the wood sections on the base. Once the paint finally dries, I will remove the mask and weather the exposed wood. We’ll see how that goes... If the paint takes at least five days to dry, hopefully I can be finished the build by the end of the month.

If you don’t have a kit already, the original issue of the Monogram Trans Am from 1978 came with the decals for the gold paint scheme. You may want to post in the Wanted section.

It was a beautiful day for a motorcycle ride, so I ended up riding to a hobby shop. Overall, it was just under 600 km for the day. The shop had the Supernatural Impala, but I’ll wait until my LHS receives their shipment. Picked up these wheel sets, as well as a couple of cans of ELO.

All it needs is the 1:25 astronaut to be complete. Great build!

One here, please!!!??

I think that chalk and cheese were the materials used to create the original master for that kit...?

Move the emergency bits from the ‘70 Impala kit, add some stock wheels with small caps, and you could have a Fire Chief’s car. The fire stations seemed to have dressier cars than the police, so you could get away with a four door hardtop.

To my eyes, the thickness of the A pillar looks to be mostly on the inside of the glass, so I am wondering if most of that thick-pillar look we can see will be taken care of with some minor sanding and a lick of paint. It’s not going to stop me from buying at least one, though! The wheels don’t look too bad for kit items. I know Kurt was asking for wire wheels like Fujimi, but I think the person who tooled those great wires for the Daytona and accessory kits is long gone. The ‘wires’ I received in my 250 GTO looked more like a goofy set of aluminum rims I used to see on a Nissan 280ZX.

I believe NASCAR has tried to improve the on-track product over the past few years with their rule changes. As a long-time fan, I laugh when people talk longingly about “The good old days”. The first Cup race I attended ended with only 4 cars on the lead lap, so it is nice to see closer racing at most tracks. There is the beginning of change in making the intermediate tracks more competitive, and the addition of more road courses makes a welcome change from the cookie-cutter venues we have had to watch over the past two decades. The lack of extended practice has been great, since it takes away the ability for the bigger teams to dial in their cars and stink up the show. As for the cars, I am a bit ambivalent over the coming changes. The current car is at the peak of development, and is providing some solid racing. The biggest issue is that, for all the fabrication, the chassis on these cars are still essentially 1965 full-size Fords equipped with a rear trailing arm suspension from an early 1960’s Chevrolet truck. While there are certain aspects of the new car I am not sold on, such as the sequential shifter, it is an opportunity to introduce more relevant suspension technology. I don’t know if it will work, but I’m willing to give it a chance.

I forgot how miserable it can be to paint with enamel spray cans. Back when I bought this wagon and the matching tractor, I stopped in at the local John Deere dealer and bought a rattle can of the factory green and yellow paint. They have been moved several times, and are almost 20 years old. I dug the cans out of the back of my paint cabinet, and tried out both colours. The yellow was too thickly applied and cracked, but the green sprayed well. I laid a coat down, and waited...and waited...and waited some more?. If I had known the pieces would still be tacky after 3 days, I would have painted with Humbrol! The parts were cured enough to move to the dehydrator, but it’s still a long process. note: the paint in the two photos is the same colour, just different lighting.

For some reason, the C4 wheels suit the C4 Vette, but I haven’t seen many other cars that look good with them. Mind you, there is a 1:1 ‘59 Plodge in my area with the wheels and drivetrain, and it doesn’t look that bad!

The only times I have seen cracking on TS-13 is when it has been sprayed over paint that is still drying. I try to leave my colour coats for at least 24 hours before spraying clear, and I haven’t had any issues. If you are using a dehydrator for paint, I still find it’s a good idea to wait at least 6 hours before spraying.