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I just had word from my bookseller that they now have Drag Racing Models in stock, hope to have it soon.

That looks identical to the Stellar my aunt used to own. Hers died within three years, and she moved on to driving Corollas after that. Recently, she bought a Kia Sportage, but will never get another car with a Hyundai badge (and, yes, she knows that Hyundai and Kia are the same company).

I use Plastruct Bondene or Ambroid liquid cement, something which is hot enough to engage the memory of the plastic. Many modellers refer to it as 'ghosting', where emblems they have sanded off/removed return after applying a coat of lacquer.

Unless you are super-detailing the chassis and showing them at Chevrolet-only shows, I wouldn't bother.

There was a similar design from the USSR, but in real life. I think it was a Yakolev design, but it actually flew until the MiG-15 came into volume production.

I would mask off the mouldings, sand, and then brush on some liquid cement. Once dry, sand again, and another coat of liquid cement. The liquid cement is used to try and remove the 'memory' of the texture, so it doesn't pop through again.

Picked up a few pieces today at a club member's collection-thinning sale!

Nice, makes a change from the flat black P-61's that you usually see.

I have used PS-20 over Tamiya white primer, and is safe as long as you aren't laying on thick coats of paint. The more durable the primer, the better. Haven't had any issues while clearcoating with TS-13 clear.

The matches are either TS-36 Florescent Red, or PS-20 Florescent Red. The TS spray is a bit glossier, but the PS spray has better coverage. Either one should be sprayed over white primer for best results.

One change I can see right off the bat is the removal of the moulded-in battery. Definitely a worthwhile change!

The #40 Pontiac shares its' chassis and running gear with the original Monogram '82 Buick Regal, and subsequent reissues as Monte Carlos, Pontiac Grand Prix, Olds 88s, and '88-up Buicks. These chassis are also the basis of the 1:24 kits that are manufactured by JR Salvino's (Pontiac 2+2, LeMans). They represent the running gear, though there are some details that are specific to the prototype (the 180 degree headers, for example).

MRC Cragar wheel and tire set, should have come with either Mickey Thompson or Firestone (IIRC?) tires. There was also a set with Keystone wheels.

That's the first time I have seen the Nomad Smash-up Derby car! It always seemed that the majority of the sets had the Bug and the pickup truck.

The other problem which occurs is when model companies use information provided by the manufacturer. In many cases, the photos provided represent 'pre-production' vehicles, which may have different trim or interior patterns than the regular production vehicles. In many cases, manufacturers also make specification changes throughout the year, so a model tooled from a factory-stock vehicle may represent an equipment specification only offered for a small period of time. For model companies, it's a tough call on how much research needs to be undertaken to achieve a 'perfect' car or bike model (for recent examples, check the thread on Revell's '71 Mustang...)

Hi Tim, all it said was 'product unavailable for shipping', so I don't know what the situation is with Amazon Canada. I know that the book is listed as unavailable through Chapters/Indigo stores (our version of Barnes & Noble), so maybe it's a Canadian thing??‍♂️

I just received the notification from amazon.ca that my order has been cancelled, and money refunded. Guess I will have to go elsewhere for my copy.

We are getting older, it is true, but we have nothing on train guys. I overheard a conversation at my LHS two years ago, between the owner (who died last year at the age of 86), and some of is train customers. The customers, who were in their early to mid-90s, were calling the owner 'youngster', and commenting "I remember you selling at the 1949 train show, you had (obscure piece of RR equipment for sale)...". This group probably could have told you where they were and what they were doing when Kennedy, McKinley AND Lincoln were shot!!!

The easiest way I have found to get rid of the 'graininess' is to scrub the part with a toothbrush and regular toothpaste, rinse, wash with dish soap, dry, and shoot your colour coats. Takes the rough surface away, but leaves enough 'tooth' for the paint to grip. Hope this helps!

I have the Diablo kit in my stash to build a copy of the GMC Caballero my Dad drove as his work truck for three years. V6/3 on the floor. I grabbed a bench seat interior out of an '82 Elco kit back when they weren't that expensive, so I have all the needed bits!.

When I use Tamiya lacquer for painting roll cages, I prefer to prime the parts (so I can see the parting lines I missed), and then shoot with the final colour coats.

I build aircraft as well, so I do see the need for magazines. However, I find the information in FSM to be less detailed than I can find in magazines like Scale Aviation Modeller International or Model Airplane International. I want to still have a magazine dedicated to automotive subjects available to purchase at my hobby shop.

Jim Haught: Kalmbach's answer to John Dianna. Mind you, the current high foreheads at TEN have made Dianna look like a paragon of managerial restraint. I am saddened to see SA go down the way it did. I thought Tim Kidwell was doing a good job at bringing the magazine back to relevance. Unfortunately, Scale Auto was never a really good fit in the Kalmbach world of modelling generalists and geriatric train lovers.

it's like the joke: What is the difference between a BMW and a porcupine? Unfortunately, there are a number of BMW drivers who are...shall we say...overly aggressive and assertive! As the owner of a BMW motorcycle, I am glad that the styling departments have not been cross-pollinating.

Love the camper, but why did the builder have to leave those ejector pin marks on the inner doors??‍♂️