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Most likely the NAPA car. The Hooters car won't be available to ship for a while.

Revell had some great prize competitions at the time. My cousin entered the competitions to try and win a new Jeep CJ-7, but ended up with one of the first BMX bikes. My dad bought it from him, and gave it to me as a Christmas present. With the chrome tube frame and mag wheels, it was a stunning looking bike, but it was a HEAVY bike to pedal around (especially with only one speed available!).

There is a light metallic green available in a Tamiya spray can. Paint code is in the TS-58 to TS-60 range, may get you where you want to be in your build.

Looks really nice, and captures the look of those old Toyota trucks. There were quite a few around when I was young, but many succumbed to rust. The colour choice reminds me of the HiLux that the presenters tried to kill in the original Top Gear. At the end, it was battered but was still able to drive in to the studio under its' own power!

For many low-budget teams, it made more sense to update the bodywork on their Galaxies than it did to purchase a brand new 'half-chassis' racer from Holman-Moody or other fabricators. It wasn't until more used mid-size cars made their way into the system that you saw the move away from using the Galaxies. Most of those cars which started life as a '66-67 Fairlane ended their racing careers as -71 Torinos or Cyclones. As an example, the '67 Fairlane in Andretti's paint scheme is a recreation of the original car. The original chassis ended up under a '71 Cyclone, which was driven by Darrell Waltrip in 1972-73 (I believe DW still owns the car). The picture of the #26 Galaxie from 1966 is the extreme version of body mods. Other 1966 Galaxie NASCAR racers were much closer to stock appearance.

Over the years, I have been able to get a full set of the Airfix 1:32 cars, and the asking prices are incredible! For the Ford Zodiac kit, the price was almost $100, which was painful to contemplate paying (especially since I remember buying these kits on close-out for 49 cents back in the mid-1980s!)

Really nice haul, Adam. I would like to have gone to Heritagecon, but couldn't justify two weekends away in a row (was at the Group 25 show last week). I have one of the regular Fairey Battles in the stash, but a Trainer version would be fun to build: I have pictures of those aircraft in the yellow and black stripes being used as instructional airframes...

I went to another store while on a weekend trip, and they had the Dragster for $27 CDN! Bought it, and had no issues with the frame rails.

I saw the Dragster kit on the shelves at the LHS yesterday. However, at $40 CDN I will be waiting a bit to make a purchase.

Thanks for the mention of Apoxie Sculpt for filling in the limb joints, Adam. I picked some up to use on my current project, and it works amazingly well!

Does anyone offer the BFG tires in resin? The original MPC tires are, IMHO, some of the worst for causing tire burn on parts (not as bad as vintage Revell tires, but close!)

Sanding and scraping worked for me. I also applied liquid cement to those areas while sanding, to try and remove any 'memory' from the area prior to painting. Hope this helps!

I just saw one of those kits come in to my LHS in a collection. PM me if you would like their contact info.

It astounds me that no other manufacturer hasn't stepped up to tool a decent 914, either as a 914-6 or a four-cylinder. I came close to buying a real one ('72 2.0) decades ago, but gave up when I noticed the floorpans had been 'reinforced' using sheetmetal from a refrigerator...

The Revell B-17F was pretty much a direct copy of the Monogram G kit, right down to the amount of shrinkage present when a kit part is pantographed to make a new part. Apparently, the president of Monogram called Revell and asked them not to do this again (Bob Johnson may have additional memories, if he happens to read this post). I agree with Rodent about the original '73-4 RR and '72 GTO kits, that they were good representations of the original cars. The reissues, on the other hand, are looking really tough. Although I didn't mention it in the original post, I would throw the ex-MPC '67 GTO into the same category.

Great looking build. I had one of these Granadas as my first model kit, and was able to find a second one for my collection. My aunt had one of these, a coupe in black with a red roof and interior. It didn't last as long as her Valiant Scamp, but it was much, much better than the Hyundai Stellar that she bought to replace the Granada.

For me, it would be the MPC/AMT '74 Roadrunner. Second would be the '72 GTO. Both kits have been cobbled together from too many different years of parts.

There was also a 1:25 Revell kit of the Triumph, but the Monogram kit is more accurate. It's probably more accurate than the Gunze, but I haven't seen one of those for many years.

The trolley in the picture is from a Tamiya 1:48 Kyofu floatplane fighter. I believe the original would have been painted steel, and would have been brought on land through a winch and cable arrangement (or a lot of people pushing from the back!)

From reference pictures I have seen, the early Hemis (at least the ones delivered to Petty Enterprises) were painted in Chrysler Engine Turquoise. It was also possible that some were painted orange, because that was the same shade as the Max Wedge engines. Without definitive photographic evidence, I would suggest matching the exterior and interior colours to your photos, and base the engine compartment on what you would like to see. Good luck on the build!

There were kits of the '93 and up Ranger, but no exact match for the first-generation truck. There may be someone who has done an earlier Ranger in resin, but I am not aware of one.

The Lanchester is an obscure car, but there have been two kits of it in 1:32: the Pyro kit and one by Airfix. As someone who owns an Airfix example, a search for the Pyro kit would probably yield a nicer, more detailed model.

The Aston is a product of its' time, but it still better than the 1:24 Doyusha DB5! If you want to build the DB5, find yourself the earliest version you can locate. Tooling wear has made the front end on more recent editions look cross-eyed!

If the lacquer is still hanging on, try using some Easy-Lift-Off in those areas. It generally works on even the thickest lacquer deposits.

They can be fiddly to build cleanly, but they do give you a chance to build subjects which were never tooled in 1:24/1:25 scale (the Beetle excepted, of course!). Thank you for the compliments on the colour choice!