Rustoleum paints are terrible.

[BlackSheep214]

I'm suspecting folks are using Rustoleum 2X Ultra Cover Paint and Primer All-in-One over primered parts.

Rustoleum rattle can doesn't need to be sprayed on model kits that has a primer coat. Even if you use it for other stuff (ie: to repaint mailbox, metal chairs, etc...)  it doesn't require a primer coat. 

I think folks are overthinking you must prime before paint using Rustoleum rattle cans. I never do.

I could be wrong...

Edited January 26, 2023 by BlackSheep214

[Smoke Wagon]

Personally these days I avoid all of the 2X paints, and only go with their normal primers, normal flat-satin acrylic lacquers, and gloss enamels. Their gloss acrylic lacquers are always a bit and a miss, and their 2X stuff is only used on projects around the house that aren’t models.

[RickRollerLT1]

14 hours ago, BlackSheep214 said:

I'm suspecting folks are using Rustoleum 2X Ultra Cover Paint and Primer All-in-One over primered parts.

Rustoleum rattle can doesn't need to be sprayed on model kits that has a primer coat. Even if you use it for other stuff (ie: to repaint mailbox, metal chairs, etc...)  it doesn't require a primer coat. 

I think folks are overthinking you must prime before paint using Rustoleum rattle cans. I never do.

I could be wrong...

The only paints that don't require a primer coat are the Testors Enamels. Those are formulated with "soft" solvents, but come at the cost of frequent errors and long dry times. Testors QC these days makes them even worse then I was using them back in 2007-8.

The standard Rustoluem lines (Protects Against Rust, Metallics, Specialty/Color Shift) are also pure Enamel, but have hotter solvents that will attack most bare unprimed styrene. I know this because I once bought a cheap Revell '02 Camaro SS and some bobo painted the body Rustoluem Yellow without a primer base and a very rough finish. After the Purple bath took it off with ease, it was discovered the body crazed like mad and lots of sanding needed to smooth it out best as possible. The Testors One-Coat Lacquers were once the same hotter solvent Enamel formula as the standard Rustoluems, then recently changed to a Lacquer-Enamel mix that seems softer than the Rustoluem formula.

As mentioned, the Rustoleum Painters Touch are paint+primer built-in and will react over primered parts, even if the primer base was a lacquer like Duplicolor. These paints have hot solvents meant for heavy duty applications over stuff like PVC, and the gloss colors will attack unprimed weak styrene which makes using them for bodies impossible. Apparently, the same thing happens if one sprays a Painters Touch 2x gloss/satin color over a Painters Touch Grey/White/Ect. Primer base. So even using the same brand and formula doesn't always work due to a bad design.

However, the Painters Touch satin/flat colors are usable on styrene parts not meant to be glossy and work really well. I use these on interiors and frame/exhausts/motor pieces all the time and in most cases the crazing is non-existent or very minimal.

Edited January 27, 2023 by RickRollerLT1

[W Humble]

When I began using aerosol paint was in the late '50s,.Up till then I used Testors, Pactra, and the other hobby-store bottled paints (even Aurora had a line: really small rectangular bottles, and it went on nicely with a brush) and when I got something like a glossy finish, I thought it was heaven!  Then I discovered OEM touch-up paints, which in the early '60s were a neat trick to get more interesting palette of colors, those that looked nice on an automobile, not a step-stool.  Finally, Testors, etc. started selling rattle-can Kustom colors, and that was a parallel improvement.  I painted a D-Dragster frame from '61 with sixty-year old Pactra red just for fun, and it came out shiny and dried hard!  Wow!  In '63, I painted/repainted a Supro solid-body 3/4 scale electric bass four times; took two rattle cans, and I gave up!

But, despite dire warning to the contraray, I've been using 1;1 automotive colors since the late '60s -- when I began doing bike and street machine paint jobs, and only once has one caused me problems, IF first I used 2K (urethane, or even polyester) automotive primers.  Rustoleum, Krylon, and all their kind aren't on my shelf.  Seriously, how many modelers nowadays really don't have access to compressed air and a small gun?  

After retirement, I worked five years for a PPG paint and body-shop retailer, and learned even more about aerosols.  You can indeed get quality auto colors in rat-cans, if you have it mixed custom from chips (or if your shop-person has some time and inclination, from your imagination!) and put in a reasonably good aerosol -- for about $25!  Even a Harbor-Frieght 'purple top-loader' gun can do an excellent job on models, trust me.  I have DeVilbiss (owned over fifty years, an EGA model) and two Iwatas, all of which are nice.  But a little-tiny diaphragm compressor and the above shooter will do you proud most of the time.  I once retouched a bunch of photos using the EGA, and the purple will go even a bit finer. 

Well, I said my piece: for what it's worth -- hope it does someone good.  BTW, auto paint stores often give away mis-matched paints!  Many require a catalyst, but that makes a super-tough finish that won't wilt like rat-cans sometimes do.  Just be careful about your respirator/gloves -- but that's true with all paints, right?  Wick

[JollySipper]

On 1/25/2023 at 1:06 AM, slusher said:

I have use Krylon short cuts flat black for years on chassis and interiors never a problem.

Carl, can you use the Short Cut paints over primer? I'm looking for a better satin black, but I like to prime everything I can........ Do you just use it on bare plastic?

[slusher]

2 hours ago, JollySipper said:

Carl, can you use the Short Cut paints over primer? I'm looking for a better satin black, but I like to prime everything I can........ Do you just use it on bare plastic?

I have used it both ways. I like to primer every thing. You should try it both ways. I always shake it real good.

[TimKustom]

I can sort of agree with this subject title. I think too many people watch videos of others using hardware/big box store paint. I say stay with hobby paints because it is formulated for plastic models. If I use other or automotive products for a higher quality finish because with proper prep, they simply can provide a finer/longer lasting finish and those are typically airbrushed in a very controlled environment.

I don't have time or the desire to strip paint. I don't find that fun at all. I rather spend a little more money and use a product that provides proven results. Anytime the products I use have done me wrong is when I know I did something wrong, typically from applying them too thick.

The following models were built during last weekend's 24hr build and started/finished within the allotted time frame. The Firebird and the E-tron used Tamiya aerosol paint. Both models had three paint "processes" that also included masking over previously applied paint. A dehydrator was used to speed the paint process. No primer was used.

My brother used Testors (produced by Rustoleum) "Purplicious" Extreme Lacquer which was purchased from Hobby Lobby on the following build. Sprayed in the back yard (62° low humidity) over bare modern AMT blue plastic. It actually looks much better in person.

The following Mustang was completed in 4 days and is painted with Tamiya TS-49 aerosol over bare Revell white plastic (same as Firebird above). Sprayed in the backyard (65° low humidity). The can was heated in a dehydrator. Two light coats, two wet coats. All about 20 minutes apart. Roof masked and painted the next day TS-14 black. No polishing other than a quick rubdown with Novus #2.

None of these would ever win any "best paint" awards, but they should illustrate decent results can be achieved while using products designed for plastic models with no primers involved. I also suggest the plastic you are painting be is a smooth as possible (finished to at least 2000 grit) or sand marks will show.

My Bottom Line: Leave the hardware store paint for lawn furniture (and put a towel down if you decide to sit on it).  

[deuces wild]

Dupli-Color and plasti-Cote fan here.....

[bluenote]

On 1/30/2023 at 2:10 PM, TimKustom said:

I can sort of agree with this subject title. I think too many people watch videos of others using hardware/big box store paint. I say stay with hobby paints because it is formulated for plastic models. If I use other or automotive products for a higher quality finish because with proper prep, they simply can provide a finer/longer lasting finish and those are typically airbrushed in a very controlled environment.

I don't have time or the desire to strip paint. I don't find that fun at all. I rather spend a little more money and use a product that provides proven results. Anytime the products I use have done me wrong is when I know I did something wrong, typically from applying them too thick.

The following models were built during last weekend's 24hr build and started/finished within the allotted time frame. The Firebird and the E-tron used Tamiya aerosol paint. Both models had three paint "processes" that also included masking over previously applied paint. A dehydrator was used to speed the paint process. No primer was used.

My brother used Testors (produced by Rustoleum) "Purplicious" Extreme Lacquer which was purchased from Hobby Lobby on the following build. Sprayed in the back yard (62° low humidity) over bare modern AMT blue plastic. It actually looks much better in person.

The following Mustang was completed in 4 days and is painted with Tamiya TS-49 aerosol over bare Revell white plastic (same as Firebird above). Sprayed in the backyard (65° low humidity). The can was heated in a dehydrator. Two light coats, two wet coats. All about 20 minutes apart. Roof masked and painted the next day TS-14 black. No polishing other than a quick rubdown with Novus #2.

None of these would ever win any "best paint" awards, but they should illustrate decent results can be achieved while using products designed for plastic models with no primers involved. I also suggest the plastic you are painting be is a smooth as possible (finished to at least 2000 grit) or sand marks will show.

My Bottom Line: Leave the hardware store paint for lawn furniture (and put a towel down if you decide to sit on it).  

that purplicious looks great!  I thought the testors extreme lacquers have very large flake, but that picture looks pretty decent.  I heard a flat clear will tone down the flake, is that the case with this one?

[Mr. Metallic]

5 hours ago, bluenote said:

that purplicious looks great!  I thought the testors extreme lacquers have very large flake, but that picture looks pretty decent.  I heard a flat clear will tone down the flake, is that the case with this one?

The size of the flake seems to vary quite a bit from lot to lot. Best thing to do is a test spray first.

[Classicgas]

17 hours ago, deuces wild said:

Dupli-Color and plasti-Cote fan here.....

Where do you find Plasti-Cote?

[Ace-Garageguy]

34 minutes ago, Classicgas said:

Where do you find Plasti-Cote?

https://www.amazon.com/plastikote-spray/s?k=plastikote+spray

PlastiKote was removed from most US parts stores (replaced by the Duplicolor line) after having been reformulated to semi-uselessness last time I tried any of it.

Their primers in particular were once the go-to for many modelers because of their ease of handling, good coverage, and styrene-friendly solvents...but in recent years many users, including me, have given up trying to do anything with them.

There have been many reports of the online-available products being nothing like what we remember, and often having spraying issues to boot.

Maybe it's time to test some again, but I'm of the opinion "why bother".

Edited February 1, 2023 by Ace-Garageguy

[Dpate]

1 hour ago, Classicgas said:

Where do you find Plasti-Cote?

I think there primer doesn't exist anymore least around here.  

[TransAmMike]

Hmm!

https://www.plastikote.com/index.jsp

[Dpate]

18 minutes ago, TransAmMike said:

Hmm!

https://www.plastikote.com/index.jsp

Well that explains it 

[Classicgas]

Interesting. Duplicolor primer and paint is great. I wonder why the plasticote product wouldn't be.

[BlackSheep214]

And you would pay stupid money for that?!?! ? No thank you....?

[blizzy63]

I’ve been using Dupli-color primers (grey, red, black) happily for years, except for in the last year or so the black primer sprays too watery and requires multiple coats.

 I’ve experimented recently with Rust-oleum 2X and some other non-hobby sprays for particular colors for interiors and racing car bodies that don’t require car show finishes.

 I get varying results depending on brand, color and luster.

Below: Rust-oleum 2X Apple Red (gloss)... acceptable...

Bottom: Rust-oleum 2X Seaside (satin) is glossier than I was hoping...

Edited February 5, 2023 by blizzy63

[Joe Nunes]

Ok, lots being posted here. To be sure I am reading the information correctly, the regular Rustoleum primer (red, white, grey and black) is all right to use on plastic model parts. 2K Primer is not to be used on plastic models. 

Regular (not the 2K type) Rustoleum spray paint is okay to use on plastic models, though perhaps not as the best choice; Duplicolor would be the better choice. 

Correct me if I have this wrong. ?

 

Joe

[RickRollerLT1]

Regular Rustoleum primer can be used on Styrene, maybe the 2x Primers. Depending on how strong the molding and styrene is, use a light mist coat and then go heavier otherwise if you go heavy at once you'll def get crazing. Ether washing the body/parts in solvent or light sanding between 800-1200 grit will also make the primer coat stick better and lay out smoother.

Regular Rustoleum gloss and flat/satin sprays can be used, but a PRIMER barrier coat is a MUST or YOU WILL GET MAJOR CRAZING. Rustoluem 2x Flat, Gloss, and Satin colors have Paint+Primer built in and it's combined solvents WILL ATTACK primered base coat, even one primed with 2x Grey/White oddly enough. The 2x Flat and Satin colors are OK to use on bare styrene parts like frames and components and the crazing is almost non-existent or minimal. Some Krylon paints also have paint+primer versions and the same methods apply.

All paints, even Rustoluem, can have bad batches (powdery spray with solvent not mixed well enough, ect.) so it'd be best to test on a scrap piece or object first.

I hear many use Tamiya primers (which are formulated for plastics), but I had bad experience with a brand new can of the Fine Grey primer. Had two 82 Night Rider hoods from the same kit, same 2012 R2 issue. One was sprayed Tamiya Grey and the other True Value brand Grey. The Tamiya crazed and rippled like mad, while the True Value paint was a little coarse but smoothed out after the last 2 heavier coats. I assume the molding of the R2 kits wasn't so good, but I have a suspicion ether the Tamiya Primer was a bad batch produced during COVID or they silently reformulated it (for the worse) to comply with US regulations and reduce costs. I personally think the latter because the new Tamiya color spray cans I've bought dry much faster than the ones I used between 2013-18, so they're probably using more thinner/solvent in place of pigments to make it seem like there's more spray for less color, but also hotter than it was for some plastics.

[StevenGuthmiller]

8 hours ago, RickRollerLT1 said:

but I have a suspicion ether the Tamiya Primer was a bad batch produced during COVID or they silently reformulated it (for the worse) to comply with US regulations and reduce costs. I personally think the latter because the new Tamiya color spray cans I've bought dry much faster than the ones I used between 2013-18, so they're probably using more thinner/solvent in place of pigments to make it seem like there's more spray for less color, but also hotter than it was for some plastics.

It makes sense because paint providers such as MCW, (or Scale Finishes. I don't remember which) has recently recommended no longer using Tamiya primer under their paints.

 

 

 

 

Steve

[H.A.K]

Some colors work better then others. I use they're gloss clear for all my cars.

[wrenchr]

What has been terrible / bad for me is my paint skills. I will take breaks from modeling, never planned just life and when I return that is the skill set that takes the longest to get back. Painting the body.  

[wrenchr]

4 hours ago, H.A.K said:

Some colors work better then others. I use they're gloss clear for all my cars.

The gloss clear does seem to be the best, also the aluminum.  

[Jon Haigwood]

I gave up on Rustoleum long ago . To many were clogging up. Only way I use them now is by de-canting them and reducing them for the air brush. I use Duplicolor  on occasion but have been using acrylics lately