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What tool(s) do you use to spread/shape Bondo, filler, mud, whatever you want to call it? When working on 1:1, I typically do numerous thin coats, sanding between each, instead of a thick coat and trying to sand into shape.

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I use a paint knife or paint spatula. The one I have is similar to number 1 or 2 in the photo. They are made of stainless steel and very thin and flexible at the end, just right for applying putty. Get one at Michaels or anywhere art supplies are sold.

image.png.257fd3aab97d77fef4c11fbd2c530ae1.png

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I start with these tools almost exclusively. The dental tool (especially the rounded tip) I use for two part QuikAluminum because I can press firmly into grooves and sculpt shapes.  The stir stick I use for Bondo. I'll sand it to the shape I want before spreading, then break off that piece when I'm done to get more uses from the stick. The sides let you do broad spreading and the shaped tip for spot spreading.

For skim coating I dilute Bondo one part glazing putty with lacquer thinner and paint it on like a heavy primer with a brush, then clean the brush in lacquer thinner.

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This is the stuff I use for sculpting. It shapes like clay and sands easily as Bondo when firm.

QuikAluminum.jpeg.40121ddb7a6687ae9e3284708bf46128.jpeg

Edited by Lunajammer
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I believe this is a Tamiya paint stir. I use both ends for application and shaping. When using body glazing, I can also dip it into lacquer thinner and continue shaping a little bit when it starts to set.

 

IMG_20240112_083116286.jpg

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i bught a cheap nail art tool set off amazon. loads of different sized applicators (they are used for making false nail) and they shape very well, but in all honesty i forget i have them and use my finger with a rubber glove finger

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I use the same spreaders for real cars on model cars-I just cut them down into strips. They are sold in various flexibility types too. I've also had good results with of all things, cardboard. The nice thing about the cardboard is just throwing it away. If you leave enough filler on your spreader when your done, it does just peel off when it dries. Too thin and you start scratching the spreader, making it tough to reuse. I would suggest using a separate,clean spreader to actually apply and a spreader or whatever for mixing separate. In my years of painting real cars, it seemed like the partials of hardener and filler worked their way up the spreader I was using to mix. I've had good luck with Evercoat, easy sand, flowable polyester finishing and blending putty.

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All of the afore mentioned tools work well but being sort of a cheap skate myself I have found that the flat plastic clip that hold my loaf of bread wrapper closed works great. 

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2 hours ago, NOBLNG said:

I have a handful of various shaped sculpting tools that I picked up cheap. I have also used the square plastic bread bag closers.

IMG_0086.jpeg

These.  Every decent size automotive swap meet will have at least one vendor selling cheap tools, and one of them will have a bin full of these in various shapes.  

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2 hours ago, pjacobs said:

I use the same spreaders for real cars on model cars-I just cut them down into strips. 

Yup.

23 minutes ago, R. Thorne said:

Old credit cards work pretty good.

Yup yup.

4 minutes ago, espo said:

All of the afore mentioned tools work well but being sort of a cheap skate myself I have found that the flat plastic clip that hold my loaf of bread wrapper closed works great. 

Yup yup yup.     image.png.322ef8e54a6692fad54fff1d30102441.png

And I do a lot of heavy bodywork.

 

Edited by Ace-Garageguy
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I generally use a piece of styrene cut to whatever size or shape fits the situation. I do make sure the surface is roughed up so the Bondo will have something to cling to. That applies to both the two part and the spot putty. The first time I use some, I worked it until the surface looked amazing, and after painting, I set aside. One flex and the putty popped right off the part. Ugh!

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1 hour ago, oldcarfan said:

...I do make sure the surface is roughed up so the Bondo will have something to cling to. That applies to both the two part and the spot putty. The first time I use some, I worked it until the surface looked amazing, and after painting, I set aside. One flex and the putty popped right off the part. Ugh!

Yes...you do need to thoroughly roughen the plastic surface for good adhesion...and not just a couple of swipes with fine sandpaper, either.

80-180 grit is best, worked carefully enough so there are no shiny spots showing where you'll apply filler.

This is basically just common sense.

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3 hours ago, CaddyDaddy said:

I'm an "old man" with Type II diabetes and an Ozempic monkey on my back! The wife doesn't allow bread in the house, hence, no plastic bread clips!!...............LOLOL!!!!!

You can make very effective spreaders from .030" or .040" styrene sheet stock, in any shape you need.

They can be reused indefinitely if you remember to flex and scrape the bondo off of the spreader as soon as it jells.

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13 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

You can make very effective spreaders from .030" or .040" styrene sheet stock, in any shape you need.

They can be reused indefinitely if you remember to flex and scrape the bondo off of the spreader as soon as it jells.

Exactly! Just made one this week for my CBR chassis that req'd getting into a tight space.

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For both Lacquer and Two-Part Spot Putties and Glazes I use the following types of either self made or store bought putty tools. (I'm cheap, I guess,) I use old credit cards and gift cards, you can cut them to almost any shape needed to blend, they are flexible so you can push all the air out. White business and index cards work too, stay away from the colored ones as they tend to transfer the color to the putty, I've never had it bleed through but am always worried it will.  Small straight Oil Painter's putty knives work well for blending large/wider areas, for me it has to be a really thin, narrow straight blade 2 to 3-1/2 inches long X 1/4" + wide works as long as they are really flexible.  

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