Nitrobarry

Oh Yeah! Looks good!

Z-11 valve covers were different from regular 409 covers. Check out the top portion near the fuel filter. It comes to a sharp point in the corner. Then look at the bottom, it`s rounded. Easy to replicate. Also. the color of the covers has a "greenish" tint.

I like the stance. Typical of the period. You nailed it!

You could substitute "dry lakes" for Bonneville and that would work to. great job!

VERY well done! Other than fixing the decal and engine wiring, it`s pretty much box stock right?

I honestly don`t know what to say about your amazing work except to say that the NHRA museum folks REALLY need to have a conversation with you about doing some models of cars that no longer exist. Unbelievable work! Thanks so much for sharing!

I love the fit of the body panels! Right on Build!

Dale would have loved it!

Just a suggestion but the center caps on the 8 lug wheels should be painted a "satin silver" or aluminum. They were never chrome plated. As well, the lettering should be picked out in black. You`re absolutely right though, they are really nice!

I like it!

Keep rollin! I like it!

That`ll work just fine!

Well Done!

What is the interior color? I`m doing the same car.

Well there you go. Keep going!

You sir are indeed a MASTER BUILDER! Thank you for a very entertaining build!

Nice work! Love the purple.

Agree with your assessment of the engine. However, you might want to take a look at the Revell Buick engines (Show Boat and or Tony Nancy 22jr kits). They look good and are not needing as much modification. I like it!

Don`t sweat about the "true color" of the 1:1 car. I`ve found that most photos from that era are indeed faded and you can`t figure out the true color. Go with whatever you think is close enough and that`ll be good enough. Keep going, it looks good!

Keep going.

Thanks for your input.

Thanks to all who replied! The bit about not clear coating as it looks unrealistic is interesting in that I find that to be true on 1:1 cars. They`re TOO shiny to me.

Thanks!

Ok, I know this subject has probably been covered a billion times, but I`m in need of a couple of definitive answers. First, if dust is found on a metallic paint job, can you sand or polish it out? It`s almost impossible, no matter what precautions you take, to keep dust off the part/body. The color I want to use is a dark pearl blue metallic. It`s Model Master two stage so I need to clear coat it. Second, after clear coating, and wet sanding, do I polish, wax and THEN apply decals? Or do I apply decals and then wax? seems to me, if I apply decals, then wax, whatever chemicals that are in the wax may take the decals off! Don`t want that. Anyone?

Not sure about Gasser tires but I do know that several manufacturers made either recaps (passenger car carcass/slick tread) or "Cheater slicks" for Stock and Super Stock Eliminator cars. Bruce was another tire maker (dragster slicks) however I`m not sure if they were still in business by 64/65. Hope that helps at least a little.