Force

Yes I noticed and your hunch was right. I just meant Trumpeter/Magnifier got it wrong...and the Meng kit is unfortunately not that much better as some of their hose and wire routing is questionable too...and Meng even brags that their kit is the most accurate GT40 kit out there...yeah right.🙄 I will follow your progress with interest as I really like the GT40's.

I see you have followed the instructions but I don't think they have it right (I looked at both the Trumpeter and Magnifier instructions). Why would one route a line from the oil pump at the back cover on the transaxle to the back end of the gear selector housing wich is the hump on the right side of the gearbox, there is a shaft coming out from there when shifting gears, and why would one route an oil line from the rear of the intake manifold to the gearbox, that place on the intake manifold is used for crank case ventilation on older FE engines and it's nothing under there except for the lifter gallery...naah that can't be right. I would imagine that a couple of the lines from the Kar Kraft T-44 transaxle would go to an oil cooler, the GT40 has one on each side, and the one on the left side is for the engine so the one on the right side must be for the transaxle. I do have some knowledge of the Ford FE engines as I just built one for my 1963½ Galaxie. Here is how the dry sump oil system on a Mk II GT40 works.

I got issue 214 in the mail the other day but I'm still missing the 212 and 213 issues.

Yes that would have been nice, it has only been available once as far as I know.

That intake manifold can't be that difficult to make from kit parts and some styrene stock.

I believe the wheels had a treatment with a product called DOW7 often used on magnesium wheels and other parts made of magnesium to prevent them from oxidation, this treatment gave the magnesium parts a goldish look. If you polish magnesium it gets a shine much like polished aluminum and all did not use the DOW7 treatment and polished the wheels instead...but magnesium oxidize easy and fast so if you want shiny magnesium wheels you have to polish them often, and if you don't it gets a dull grey look from the oxidation.

Yes, the eddylenders site is one of my sources of information, and the Modeltrucks25 Fotki site where you can look up instructions where a copyright date sometimes are printed. Scalemates it's also a good site for information but there are some inaccuracies there and sometimes they don't have the history of kits and what kits are based on correct, so it's not really that reliable all the time, I did send them an email regarding the Revell Germany Kenworth W900 kits just after I did the timeline here and pointed out the inaccuracies on that kits timeline, because Scalemates had 3 different timelines for kits based on the same basic model kit tooling, one timeline for most of the kit versions in 1/25 scale, one timeline for the kits marked 1/24 scale wich is wrong, and one for the T900 "Australian" kit, all these kits are based on the same W900 tooling so they should be on the same timeline. Another site is the Drastic Plastic Fotki albums with boxart and instructions where some information can be found. Often you just need pictures of the box from all sides as a copyright date is printed somewhere on the box owadays, or as I said, printed on the instructions.

Exactly.

No the Kenworth W900 kit was not issued at the same time as the Kenworth K100 and Peterbilt 359 wich came 1982 and I did not see it anywhere and in any catalogs under the 1980's. Why they did an older spec pre-1982 truck kit in 1992 I have no clue but they for sure did, it can for sure have been designed in Venice like the others but it did not come on the market until 1992. The W900 kit doesn't share any parts with the K100 kits as the W900 kit is from a completly different tooling...and I have to disappoint you, this kit has lots of parts as you say but does not have opening doors, the cab is one piece with a tilting extended hood, the sleeper (if the kit has one) is not detailed at all like the Peterbilt sleepers are, the curtain between the cab and sleeper is molded closed and the sleeper is just an empty box. The Kenworth K100's, T600's and Peterbilt's has a Cummins NTC 475 Twin Turbo straight 6 engine and this Kenworth W900 kit has a Caterpillar 3408 V8 like the big scale 1/16 Kenworth W900 kits originally issued by Monogram and later Revell had, and this W900 kit looks like it could be a down scaled 1/16 kit, I just compared the instructions on the Modeltrucks25 Fotki site and the breakdowns and design of the parts looks very similar between the two and that can't have been a coincidence. I don't have the original issue myself so I haven't seen the copyright date on that one but all information I have found indicates the first issue came in 1992 and the date for all other versions does also look correct. And as Luc says, the Monogram later Revell snap kits are indeed 1/25th scale, as far as I know no Kenworth kits has ever been done in 1/24th scale, just 1/43, 1/32, 1/25 and 1/16.

Well Luc, Revell is owned by a German company since 2018 so it's maybe not that odd.

The Magnifier kit is a repop of the Trumpeter kit and is not that correct, even the Meng kit has lots to desire when it comes to accuracy. But with some work you can do a nice model of it.

One must have in mind that the old US skill level ratings was 1, 2 and 3 where 1 is the easiest, 2 is more difficult and 3 is advanced, the Revell Germany skill level ratings is 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5. Most of the Revell glue kits issued in the US after they introduced the skill level ratings on the boxes were marked 2 or 3 and the 56 Chevy in your pictures was a level 2 when it was issued in the US 2007, so a 3 or 4 in the German scale is maybe not that wrong...allthough it's a quite easy kit so I would put it as a 3. So in conclution, you can't compare the old Revell US issued kits ratings with the new Revell Germany ratings as they are not exactly the same, a 3 in the old Revell US skill level rating is equivalent to a 5 in the new Revell Germany skill level rating.

The skill level ratings was 1 to 3 on the US boxes and is 1 to 5 on the Germany boxes, so a 4 on the Germany box is between a 2 and a 3 in the old US skill level scale.

I'm just curious why they insists to call it C-600 all the time, the emblems on the cab doors reads C800 and the chassis and wheels are way too beefy for the more lightweight C-600.

The picture I provided above is the first issue of the dump truck version from 1994 It's the exact same kit and it is 1/25th scale, so it's a typo on the box. Revell AG has done the same with some other versions of their W900. Here are the different issues and versions based on the Revell AG Kenworth W900 tooling up to now, pictures borrowed from Scalemates. The original issue from 1992 in 1/25th scale Same kit different box also from 1992-93 Another version of the W900 with a trailer from 1993, this time they put 1/24th scale on the box for some reason, but there are no 1/24 scale W900 kit out there so it's the same 1/25th scale kit as before. The W900/T900 Australia from 1993, same as the first tractor kit with some added parts, 1/25th scale The first issue of the dump truck from 1994, 1/24th scale on the box, but the basic kit is the same as the tractor with the dump body added. Another version of the dump truck from 1995, now with a pup trailer and the W900/T900 Australia parts in it....1/24 on the box again. They did the wrecker version in 1996...1/24th scale on the box. Same kit in a different box also 1996-97 Next version of this kit as a tractor from 2009, 1/25th scale. The third issue of the Wrecker kit from 2010, now the box says 1/25th scale but it's the exact same kit as the other wrecker kits. Fourth issue of the W900 Wrecker from 2015 The most recent issue of the tractor from 2020 Last but not least the upcoming dump tuck kit. So Revell AG did not tool up two different W900 kits in different scales and not in scales so close together, so all these are based on the same tool.

Very nice.

The NASCAR cars were really low. Here is the K&K Insurance car compared with a street car. The front and rear wheel arches on the race car is moved upwards quite a lot and the car is lowered accordingly, they used fabricated K members in the race cars and to get it as low as possible they also used dry sump oil system on the engines.

Yes that's a different kit, the only thing they have in common is that both are dump trucks. Here is a picture from an earlier issue of the Revell kit.

On the boxart the grille looks more sqareish like on the W900B but it is a W900A like all other Revell Germany W900's. As the regular W900 tractor was out not that long ago I had hoped they would reissue something else from their truck line, they have lots left to do wich hasn't been out in decades.

I agree. And if the wires are to small it doesn't look good either.

Yes, that car was meant to fit in the Gas class as well as an Altered, so it had to be legal in both. As far as I know Ohio George only drove the car once and it dissappeared soon after.

Yes, compared to the picture of the real K&K Insurance # 71 car it could be even lower.

Fujimi also did a 427 Cobra in 1/24th scale but the old Monogram tooled kit is better and more accurate overall as far as I'm concerned so go with the Revell kit.

Anything thicker than that looks clumsy and not right. But to be fair 0.020 = 0,5" is quite larger than ignition wires are on most cars as 0.5" is 12.7 mm, the MSD ignition wires om my Ford 390 based 445 stroker engine I just built and put in my 1963½ Galaxie are 8.5 mm wich equals 0.33" (0.014 in 1/24th scale), but some things looks better slightly overscale so it really doesn't matter...as long as it looks right by the eye it works. I use Detail Master 0.016 wire for my scale ignition wires, what gauge that equals to I have no idea.

Yes, the front is substantially lower on a NASCAR Daytona race car (and Superbird) than on the street counterpart.