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Scale I Build

  1. This is my first attempt at a camouflage paint scheme and I did it entirely with rattle cans using poster putty and Silly Putty for the main masking material and Tamiya tape for some details. I found a single online reference that indicated that this paint scheme was within the realm of possibility, so I sized that reference art to scale and used it as a painting guide. It’s pretty much out of the box, but I did scratch build a simple hinge for the hatch behind the turret machine gun and fabricated some detail for that hatch cover interior from Evergreen plastic. I replaced the kit antenna with wire mounted in a base I made from brass tubing. The headlight lens was from the spares box. This was my first attempt at painting any kind of figure and I don’t consider the little feller finished, but I put him in a few photos anyway. I used some dry transfers to add some interest to the fuel drums (“P” for petrol). Overall, I’m pleased. Someday I may even get around to putting in the “correct” track sag and attempt some weathering on it.
  2. Background: I'd always planned to build one of Tamiya's early kits, a boxy JDM car with actual wing-mounted mirrors. The 1970's looking Leopard TR-X Turbo was long my preference from the 8 or so I could have tried to find from the Tamiya catalogue. Pros: Very easy to assemble and very well moulded. Some conveniences right in the box as the front and rear lights are seperate and chromed, not moulded-in body colour buckets. Proportions look good and even a kit as old as this shows Tamiya's dedication to quality. "TURBO" decals are supplied both in white and in black, giving you body colour choices later on. There's a bonus Honda Tact scooter in the kit also, and a Driver figure. Cons: No engine. No brakes (not that you could see them anyway). No Japanese number plate decals, just dress plates. Wheels are unrealistically bright chrome. Interior floor is the reverse of the underbody floor pan and looks like it too. Some of the underbody parts like the exhaust are all moulded in. Some sink-marks to deal with. Verdict: With a low part-count It's not as detailed as a modern kit but it does build into a very good replica of a Nissan Leopard. Build notes: Built over 3 weeks in February 2022. The only extra details added are rear seatbelts, all-round seatbelt retainers and JDM number plates. Painted in Tamiya Titanium Gold (upper) and Ford Ginger Ale Metallic (lower), with an AS-22 Dark Earth interior. Cleared with Mr Hobby Gloss Premium. I didn't build the Honda Tact that comes with it yet. Looks like a lot of fiddly maskng with the way it's assembled.
  3. I have for trade: Tamiya Porsche 936/78 Turbo Open, sealed inside. Decals are curled on the card and a bit yellowed AirFix Maserati Boomerang - TRADED Missing several parts, box is warped and dirty, decals are ehh... one has a slight tear in it, might be a good donor for another Boomerang Amt 1969 Oldsmobile 442 W-30 - TRADED Sealed, new I am looking to trade for Tamiya Porsches, Supras, or the Celica rally kit, Revell '30 Model A Coupe, or AMT Silverado kits. Tamiya Porsche: Thanks for looking! If you have something to offer, let me know. I can wheel and deal, but the kits/pieces mentioned above are what I am mainly interested in.
  4. I started this kit about 30 years ago. Sat in the box painted metallic black or gray. Finished it finally. Not a motorcycle guy, but I think it looks kind a cool. Tamiya FZR750R OW01. Straight outta the box.
  5. Good Evening, This was my first Tamiya kit... I now know why people rave about the quality of their kits. Pretty sure you could toss the kit into a bag and the parts would fall together. There was no engine and some tiny parts that could probably have been moulded as one but overall a pleasure to build. Great window masks were included - a first for me. The body was primed with decanted Mr. Finishing Surfacer 1500 Black and painted with decanted Tamiya TS-45 Pearl White. The TS-45 took several coats but never really covered that well so I decided to apply 2 coats of Tamiya LP-43 Pearl White and sealed it with decanted Tamiya TS-65 Pearl Clear. I did not use primer on the interior. The colours are Tamiya X-18 Semi Gloss Black and XF-7 Flat Red. I used Ranger gun metal embossing powder for the carpeting. Of course it wouldn't be a build if I didn't make a couple mistakes along the way. What I learned from this build: 1. I turned a tiny dust speck into a bigger boo-boo and had to strip the paint. Oven cleaner worked okay but brake fluid seemed to work better. Thanks for the tips I read here on the forum. 🙂 2. This was my first time using Tamiya's LP lacquer paint. It sprayed nicely thinned 1:1 with Mr. Levelling Thinner and I would choose their LP over acrylic for car bodies every time. 3. Not sure about colour similarity between their TS and LP line. Tamiya's Lacquer Compatibility Chart says TS-45 and LP-43 are the same but the LP-43 looked warmer to me. 4. I used a heavier application of white glue with the embossing powder which worked well. 5. The decals seemed a little thicker and less sticky. Had to use multiple applications of decal solution to make them stick and conform. Merry Christmas & Happy New Year! 🥂
  6. Up next on my workbench is Tamiya's 2005 Honda Takata Dome NSX. This will not be a pure box stock build nor will it be a super detailed build, somewhere in the middle I guess. I will be using Tamiya's PE set for this car and Gravity Colors - Spain Takata Green. This is one of the models that Tamiya decided to use a metal/diecast chassis plate. I have never built one of these before so we'll see how it goes. Here is what I am starting with. The Gravity Colors - Spain paint is absolutely beautiful in my opinion. I took it to work to show some of my coworkers how nice it was. I was giving it a shake as we were talking about it and it slipped out of my hand. Sigh. My shop smelled good for awhile...lol. I've already placed another order. While I wait for my new bottle of paint to arrive I went ahead and started work on the other bits. Another new one for me is how Tamiya has you make their racing harness. There are decals but I did not want to use them. The PE set has all of the required pieces and this weird vinyl material that you need to cut to 2.4mm wide. I used my Infini cutting mat for this. It took several attempts because this material stretches as it is being cut. Next up will be more interior updates and wheels/rotors.
  7. It's box stock except for the seat covering. It came with this fuzzy stuff that was just giving off its fibers and didn't look right anyway. I put on this leather like material. I like to show enough pictures for a "walk around". First shot is without the fairings: Notice my paint detail work on the chain. No PE, it's the plastic one in the kit. I also drilled out all the holes in the brake rotors.
  8. I would like to share my Spirit of America Porsche 956 with all of you. I fell in love with this livery when I first saw it. I found the Studio 27 decals and just had to build it. This post will be a little photo heavy so be forewarned. If you would like to see the WIP you can go here: WIP: Other Racing: Road Racing, Land Speed Racers - Model Cars Magazine Forum. A list of products used is listed there. There is also a little rant within that thread so be forewarned about that too...lol. Questions? Ask away. Comments? Please post them. Critiques? I'm a big boy. Maybe I'll learn something from them. This model has only made it to one model contest so far. I am pleased with the results. It is nice to have your work recognized by your peers. This is a shot of some test fitting during the build process. The drivetrain is not complete in this picture but I thought it was kind of cool. The rear cover is not fully in place, it is just sitting on the model. The model will normally be displayed with it off.
  9. I thought I would share another build with all of you. I am going to build the Spirit of America liveried Porsche 956. I will be using the following items on this build: Tamiya Newman Porsche 956 Studio 27 Spirit of America decals Studio 27 wheels Scale Motorsport PE set Eduard 6 point racing harness Various Detail Master and Pro Tech items Now for a couple of notes. I am no expert on these types of race cars. I just happen to like them, I think they are absolutely gorgeous machines. I do not expect my model to be an exact replica. I will try to explain why I did what I did if I deviated from the prototype. I appreciate all comments and suggestions that you may offer. The truth is, like most of my WIP threads that I have done in the past, this model is already complete. I still think this WIP could be beneficial to someone thinking of building a similar model. The following pics are of the car that I'm building. I got them from the Internet. I would give credit to the photographer if I knew who they were. Here are a few pics of what I am starting with.
  10. Fire up the Quattro! Here’s my build of the Tamiya Audi Quattro Coupe. It’s painted Tamiya TS-8 Italian Red with two coats of future. This kit builds up very nicely with plenty of detail despite the low parts count. I was pleasantly surprised that the decals worked nicely with no tearing, since most of the decals from older kits I’ve built disintegrated. I built this kit as a gift for my stepdad, as he owned a red ‘89 model during the ‘90s in the UK before he moved to the US. He sold it to his dad, who daily drove it until 2005 when it was unfortunately totaled in a crash. His parents luckily walked away unscathed, which they attributed to the car’s build quality. He always says it was the best car he’s ever owned so I know he’ll love it!
  11. Specifically a Tamiya Toyota Sprinter Trueno GT-Z AE92. My second model in 20 years after the brown Crown I posted awhile back. Here's another megapost with some inspo and more fun photo experiments! Here's the two of 'em together, chillin'. The kit: The inspiration - went for kind of an Okinawa surf vibe with this one...wanted to see if I could make blanket seat covers like that. Weird little 1/2 mudflaps... Fixed. Added the pop-ups from the Initial D AE86, I guess Takumi will have to deliver during the day. Built boxes behind the lenses since this snap-kit only had decals. It's little details like this I never thought of before and now they're all I see, haha. Choppin' it up Adding powerrrr Filling sinks Makin' masks and wow do I suck at this. Noticing that Tamiya white tape (plastic) leaves cleaner lines than Tamiya yellow (paper). My hands are not steady enough for this. Tough to see the depth and color of the Tamiya dark metallic blue in the sun but it looks nice here. Some of that surf vibe coming in. Realized nothing has enough weight to hang so even invisible thin line has to be shaped and glued. Making space for the deep Focus Racing Fins 1 piece, lotsa making Her undercarriage, as interpreted by whatever paints I had lying closest to hand. Had some Amuse decals so I tried to do one of their wild R1 Titan exhausts, just about the limit of my airbrush ability so far. Pretty close... Mmm...smell the exhaust... Mexican blanket method from YouTube, nice n' easy! Going for the pattern in that Honda Civic...definitely relaxing to make these. No risk of the thread reacting to the tape and going all orange peel or anything. Add fringe... ...then chop it up... ...and in it goes. Having some fun in the interiors...real titanium shift knob (a nose ring), little data logger made from clear blue plastic, and interior door handles though I think I got the driver's side one wrong for an AE92. Gotta have the Sparc-o and the Bride-o Ok, to the outside! Gotta use a stencil from now on for intercoolers...I'm not sure a decal can ever look quite right. Tried out some auto film for the tint...not really to scale and it's on the outside of the glass (!) but hey, everything's an experiment for me at this point. I do like the 3 colors of flop I get out of it. To the indoors where I had some more fun with lighting - here with one of those LED tracing boards/light panels above the car, going for a full marketing photoshoot setup, hehe. Which is really great if you want to highlight every. single. imperfection in a surface. I see why CAD designers and clay modelers use zebra stripes now. Still, looks kinds cool... Full-on 90's now with a little light writing (bike light on a stick, 3-5 second exposure) Dragging my hand along the back added some nice floor lighting. Yeah I'm getting weird at this point. Halo! Ok enough of that, just smooth... "Bad Human Being: Women, Liquor, Drift...etc"
  12. I've had this one sitting on the side for a while, after buying it on eBay, sadly when it arrived the tyres and polycaps were missing, a good friend got in touch with me to say he had the parts I needed, so as I've got a few models on the backburner ready for airbrushing, I'm going to make a start on this one, I've had the paint mixed up for a few years, Positano yellow, which was the colour of my second car, a Fiat 128. it's been a while since I've built a Tamiya model kit, I think the last one was the Citroen 2cv, I think I need to build more of my Tamiya kits in the stash, the parts fit is superb, just a very fine mould line to remove running along the top of the rear window, but the rest of the bodyshell is devoid of any more mould lines, the engine cover and sunroof are only dry fitted at the moment.
  13. Hello everyone! I've literally just started building my first car and have obviously ran into some problems. It's a Lotus Europa 1/24 from Tamiya and the main shell that came off the sprue is white. After the first base coat, I had some tiny paint holes and build up, like bubbling or mounds, one area near the front fender, and one under rear bumper. This is the part where I think I began to get overcomplicated and ahead of myself. I tried sanding down and filling the holes with Tamiya basic putty which is grey. I waited a day for the putty to settle then sanded it so was smooth and in the shape of the shell, and the holes were filled out. Then, since I sanded the first basecoat (because clear coat is not recommended to go on a sanded base coat IIRC?)I tried spraying another (2nd) basecoat of the pearl white, and to my dismay, I found out that the pearl white spray (TS-45) I was using was very translucent, and showed the grey putty areas. So, I sanded the car again trying to get rid of as many grey areas as possible. At this stage I have ran out of spray (100ml can), and am too eager to finish the shell. Now this was probably another rookie mistake, I tried hand painting the more difficult grey areas with Tamiya flat-white enamel because I couldn't wait to buy another can of the pearl white. Now I've bought 2nd can 100ml can of pearl white and sprayed the other parts (bumper, back engine cover, spoiler) and then on the main shell yet another basecoat (3rd). There is still some orange peel from my amateur spraying, one or two grey putty areas (3-5mm in size) you can see when it is well lit, as well as some scribing scratches. You can also see slightly raised patches where I've used some enamel in my amateur attempt to cover up the grey putty areas. Now I've used two cans of Tamiya pearl white spray, and still have a pretty mediocre shell. Please refer to the photos. So now, do I buy third can of the pearl white and spray to cover up the grey regions and fill scribing mistakes? Do I sand down everything and start again? Or should I just clear coat it now, polish, and just build the car. Regards LG
  14. Kitbash of the Aoshima Toyota Celica LB 2000GT Liftback and the Tamiya Toyota Celsior (USA market Lexus LS400). Been thinking of this project for some time. Have a couple of photos found on the web of a Celica with a turbocharged Lexus V8, so that is where I started. Assembled the chassis and engine, mostly with Tacky glue. Cut off the hood, using the Tamiya scriber. I knew there might need to be flares, design pending. Chassis pan will be shortened in the middle, cut off the back, and much of the front overhang removed. Looked at my choice of wheels. This is my first choice, has two widths of tires, and Brembo brakes. I like the look, but same width tires. Maybe, but no brakes. Only because the box shows the Lexus. Interior tub width is a very close fit. Planning to chop off the back seat, and fabricate a simple back area. Lexus seats are really nice. The dashboard is the challenge, sort of. The Aoshima kit came via Satco, which made the resin LHD dashboard. I couldn't let the dust settle after finishing the VW Microbus, so I'm off and ruining two perfectly good kits.
  15. So a little bit of background for you guys about me. I’ve been building model cars since I was in my teens thanks to my mom who bought my first kit thinking it was already built but surprise surprise it was in bits so guess what? Yep I had to build it myself. Back then I must have just used glue, a knife and maybe some paint and that was the extend of my modeling tools. I then concentrated on building war planes but then my passion for race cars increased so I started building Tamiya 1/12 scale models. I then took a long long break from modeling because of my profession which was bring a race car mechanic and later engineer. So anyways back to the model. I’m a fan of Senna and saw him race numerous times when I was a mechanic so I decided to build his championship winning McLaren. I bought the kit and also the Top Studio upgrade bits to make a more realistic model. I try to aim for realism as much as I can. Being a mechanic I know how and where those parts go but more importantly what they should look like. Now my methods are a bit unorthodox as I don’t build the car according to the instructions because to me it doesn’t make sense. So for example I started with the gearbox but I separated the gearbox from the engine. I’m basically building it like I would a real race car. Hopefully you modelers will like the build and feel free to comment as I go along.
  16. 89AKurt

    Celexus

    Kitbash of the Aoshima Toyota Celica GT2000 Liftback, and the Tamiya Toyota Celsior V8, chassis, and interior (Lexus LS400 in the USA), Celica + Lexus. WIP thread The V8 is very popular for street rodding Corollas, some Celicas have also been done. Had this idea since July 2003, started April 21 and finished in a little over 110 hours. The basic architecture of the two cars is similar, the sedan wheelbase was shortened about 5/8", Celica body widened about 5 MM each side. Not sure what class this would fit into at some contests, 'Tuners' are usually Japanese turbocharged 4 cylinders, 'Street Machines' are usually American cars with V8s, 'Customs' are usually Lead Sleds. ? The Aoshima came with the American Satco LHD dashboard. Wheels are a Fujimi set, that came with Brembo brakes. Nail 'polish' paint. There are some things that did not work out perfectly, but good enough for something different. I use a hot-wire to cut most of the time, in this case kept the jagged edge to simulate a weld line. Engine is mostly stock, exception was cutting the intake tract with accessories apart. Front has a Mercedes 190 airdam blended in, photo-etch grill, intake air filter is being missing headlight. I designed the moveable spoiler, the intent is have it go up when braking. Scanned and reduced kit boxes to scale. Cargo area is all scratch-built, including strut brace. This Celica was touted as the Japanese Pony Car, now that I modified the fenders and installed a V8, it looks the part. To hide some blemishes, have "weathered". Can scratch this off my 2020 Resolution list, #4. ?
  17. Resurrecting a project started in January 2003, based on the very nice Hasegawa VW Microbus Type 2 kit. I had left over parts from building a Fujimi Porsche 911 Slantnose Turbo kit-bashed with the Tamiya 911 Speedster. Made it this far without taking digital pictures of the process, so the run-down of what was done: Bus: Opened all doors, front doors are suicide with doubled-acting wire hinges. Made new panels using epoxy putty, which warped the doors so need to fix that. Side doors are also double-acting wire hinges. I'm reconsidering the hinges since I have discovered fusee chain, used on the Ferrari N.A.R.T. The engine lid for the 911 grill replaces the original access, no engine detail inside. Slanted back the windshield, re-profiled the roof using epoxy putty. The spare tire cover that was inside, is now under the front. Adding the third brake light, like it was taken from a Ford Econoline van. Reason for changing the window number, added two more of the Safari windows at the back, thus 25 Window. Adding the Porsche roof should revise to a higher number, depending on what I do with the side glass. Porsche parts: Have used the headlights, turn signals in the bumper, door mirrors, dash, seats (back seat is modified with a similar cushion pattern), Fuches wheels and Pirelli tires, and engine bottom. The Speedster had 3 seats, one was laid back for under the cover, separated and hinged so it's adjustable, and Captain swivels, and can be taken out. The dash has been modified to fit, have 3 pedal arms ready for photo-etch pads. The exhaust is modified using copper wire, will redo the tips using stainless steel tubing. The shifter console has a second parking brake that is intended to lock the front wheels, for showing off with burn-outs. The roof is from the Fujimi Slantnose project, I had been debating what to do for the roof, didn't really want to do the canvas fold/sliding thing, so this will become a carbon-fiber unit similar to a Westfalia camper unit. First thing to do is fix the A-pillars and the one B-pillar that are broken, reinforced with wire (as I did for the Ferrari N.A.R.T. Spyder windshield frame). One thing that stopped me, was knowing the giant VW emblem was going to cause problems for painting, have made resin copies, will grind off, problem solved. Designing a cool looking interior cabinet along the side with an awesome sound system, I have no clue about that stuff so need to research, have speaker grills and mesh salvaged from electronic devices. The interior needs window framing, can't just stick the glass in, so that will be new pieces, thinking of covering with carbon-fiber decal, might hinge some of the side windows. The back windows have the cage protectors, the kit has decals which would look really cheesy, so will *have to* make from wire, the back seat has wire too. Needs a steering shaft/box added. Have the crazy idea to use LED lights that came in junk mail from car dealers, with fiber optic runs to lights, very ambitious and crazy. ? I have a Coke cooler to put in now. ? Since I finished three projects recently, I couldn't let the dust settle. ? Will be thinking of a nickname...... Pictures taken long ago: When I got inspired with the LED lighting idea: When I was casting RTV and resin, used up some rubber: After finishing the '69 Chevy pickup, cleaned up the bench (I know, hard to believe): The latest idea, the Westfalia camper style roof. The interior: This little monster is getting finished! ?
  18. I'm really keen to make a dent into my stash this year. I've spent soooo much of my time doing DIY in the house, or fixing mistakes in my builds that I don't get to finish a model too often. I am part way through a Rally car build that requires too much scratch building and additional details to make it half decent, so I thought I'd start another. This will be pretty much an out-of-the-box build with very little details. Maybe plugs and seat belts, and that's it. the joy for me in model building is engines and chassis, this has a full engine, so i'll start with that. I do want to get an F40 completed next too, as I think they will go well together. Wife is after a new House project, so i've got to move quickly.
  19. I saw someone post pictures of a 1969 Charger with then engine painted this color. Regrettably, I didn’t write down his name. But it was the best representation of MOPAR engine blue I had seen yet. It’s Tamiya TS-41 Now I have to build a couple more Chargers!?
  20. My latest build, a 1990 Eunos Roadster by Tamiya. I used to own a Mariner Blue ‘90 Miata so I had to paint this one blue too! It’s Krylon Colormaxx gloss “True Blue.” The finish has more orange peel than I’d like, but I don’t have the patience for wet sanding and polishing ? It’s good enough for my shelf! Not much else to say really, this is a pretty simple curbside kit that goes together nice and is a quick and easy build.
  21. Built this one many, many years ago from the original release 1/12 scale kit by Tamiya. Built box stock with a Guards Red rattle can finish by Testors from memory (no clear coat). Enjoy! Cheers....Geoff
  22. Here are some photos of a recent commission build of a Spitfire by Revell in 1:32 scale. Its a straight out of the box build using Tamiya paints. Very nice kit, well detailed and relatively simple to build. Thanks Chris www.wardsmodelbuilder.com wardsmodelbuilder@outlook.com
  23. Hey, everyone!, its me again. I've decided that i will be posting WIPs on more of my started projects...hopefully it will motivate me to finally finish them. Who knows, it may even help someone whose working on one now. My objective for this kit was to just make it look a bit more realistic without having to spend too much extra money. Its actually a pretty decent representation of the actual car, and despite the kits age, it fits together well...is fun to build, and looks great when done! There are a few body style changes i made already.....basically an easier, fun build. Dont know how these photos got all mixed up, but here we go... -Photo 1, 5-7; I'm not sure how many people re-scribe every seam the same, but not all seams should be the same depth. For instance; the arrows are pointing to lines that should be shallow, since they are only body panels that dont open. Things like doors...bonnets...and boots need to be scribed deeper to show a deeper shadow insinuating space. -Photo 2; The kit -Photo 3&4; These photos show my kolor choices for this build. -Photo 8; Since i never intended to show the engine, i glued the hood shut, and needed to use styrene for extra contact. -Photo 9; The Headlamp housings dont have enough contact to be level in the closed position -in the up position they work fine. Since i wanted them down, i cut the box away, added sheet styrene to the under side , then reattached the covers centered in the openings. -Photo 10; I glued together the two-part vent boxes, sanded off the molded in front license plate, and began to SB end caps on the wing. Since i didnt like the mirrors that came with the kit, i took some spare ones from an Aoshima Countach kit. -Photo 11; I glued in the exhaust pipes, and used styrene to fill in the unrealistic openings above them. -Photo 12; Here i filled in the remote control switch, and since i wanted to use a newer version wheel from an Aoshima kit, i had to styrene rods that will fit into the backs of the wheels. -Photo 13; Here are the interior bits i am starting with.
  24. Well, everyone, i could not resist starting another car....when you feel motivated this strongly, you gotta go with it, right?! This will be another Uber build for me, and like always, i have some different suprises up my sleeve. What i will tell you now, is that it will be a road car, and it will be semi-gloss white. I spent hours, and hours trying to find detailed photos of the engine, and suspension, but couldnt find that much, so i will do my best with what i did find. I started off by doing as many pre-assembly things i could, and filling seams. I havent started sanding yet, but later today, i will have photos of all those bits.
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