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AMT Dick Brannan ‘65 Mustang SOHC “Bronco”


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This was built from the less-than-stellar old AMT 1/25 Mustang “Funny Car” kit containing parts that don’t quite look like the actual Brannan car shown on the box:


I attempted to build a Hilborn injected “match racer” version of this car (not complying with A/FX rules) and so I took a lots of liberties, particularly with the front end (solid axle with leaf springs) and omission of the radiator and belts (kind of an early pre-flipper funny car build).  My goal was to try to approximate the stance shown on the box photo which I really liked. I thought about replacing the toy-like cammer SOHC kit engine with one of the new tooled engines out of the excellent Moebius ‘65 Comet A/FX kits but decided to try to make the best of it with the kit engine. 

The decal graphics supplied with the kit were quite inaccurate so Joe Curtis at Fremont Racing Specialties came to my rescue and made a fabulous set of replacements for me. Joe is incredibly talented and a great guy!

This is not one of my better efforts, lots of errors and screw-ups, particularly on the paint and windows, but I’ve been bogged down for a few months on this and decided to wrap it up and move on. I didn’t list all the details above on changes/additions I did on this kit but shoot me any questions you might have and I’ll be happy to supply more details.Thanks for looking!



















Edited by papajohn97
Corrected grammar error
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Fixed the decals on the left side to match the actual car (reversed the “Ford” and “Stark-Hickey”) and added ‘427’ emblems to front fender (from Revell ‘64 Ford Thunderbolt kit, love it when they give you extra decals!).54265DC9-058D-4519-94CB-FD2EABB14804.thumb.jpeg.659184dfbed86c4df3606785983c1bb4.jpeg

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"I attempted to build a Hilborn injected “match racer” version of this car (not complying with A/FX rules)" ...

The real money was in match racing, anyway.

Great work, John!

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Thanks everyone for the compliments, so nice to share builds here and not just add them to the big plastic storage box in the top of my side of the bedroom closet to be forgotten! 

The injector velocity stacks and front leaf springs are from speedcityresin.com. The distributor, plug wires and looms are from Detail Master. The fuel lines are made from 0.5 mm solder and the fuel pump and fuel log junction is scratch built from styrene rod and sheet. I used a round piece of photo etch from my spares box for the front bulkhead detail on the fuel pump, this piece probably coming from an Eduard 1/32 aircraft PE set. 

I did replace the kit supplied straight axle with a scratch-built one I made from styrene rod that allowed me to lower the front of the car. I also had to incorporate scratch-built engine mount brackets from .04” sheet styrene onto the kit supplied tubular front clip to adjust the engine position relative to the front axle to support the final stance.0624E37C-2207-470D-B00E-E812D955C2F9.jpeg.78523c17b0fc9ab4f652c904523b002a.jpeg


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Hey Bill72sj, you’re on, let’s go! May the faster cammer win!

Love the amazing job you’re doing on that sweet ‘67, keep going please! I have the Revell 1/24 ‘65 2+2 kit in the stash with an extra Moebius ‘65 Comet Dyno Don A/FX kit for the donor SOHC that I want to use to build Les Richey’s non-AWB car:

Hoping the 1/25 wide cammer engine will fit into the 1/24 engine bay with a minimal amount of mods. A pair of big Fireball Holley’s on the top should help fool the eyes that it’s all of one scale.  I’m just waiting for some custom decals before I start.

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Very impressive, even if it's not your best work!  That stance is much better than what the kit does out of the box.  Great job on bringing that big old Cammer to life too.  I've been tempted lately to build mine, and will use yours as an inspiration and guide of sorts when I do.  How did you remove the rear quarter window louvers, and, did you make those windows or get some from another kit?

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Thanks Bogger44, I removed the rear quarter windows by drilling out the inside profiles with a small drill (1/16”?) cutting the remaining connections with an X-acto, cleaning up the rough edges with the same X-acto and then taking a course, medium snd fine sanding sticks to clean up the final frame. It’s an easy mod to do. I used the kit part for the front/ rear glass and .005” thick clear styrene sheet for the sides.

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