blunc

great to see this finished, I like it.

it does have a rather brutish charm, please continue.

to all the members that actually answered the thread topic question....thank you. I've been acquiring some 1/16 kits when the price is right, most of them I consider "a good place to start" since I like to add detail and upholstery. I have most of the 1/16 scale AMT, Revell, MPC and Lindberg kits with a few of the Fujimi and Minicraft kits. I haven't started on any of them yet due to the projects I have on the other end of the scale spectrum...but at least I won't have to pay a fortune for them later.

I'm sure that'll buff right out..

ah, but would it have been a "new" chipmunk?

I get virtually zero bench time due to night shift and "honey-do" projects.

All of the 1/32 kits have potential whether you go "box stock" or take the builds to the limit of your skills. The build below started as a Lindberg '34 Ford.

I see a valve stem on the polished deep dish mag.

not a brown paper bag? I guess there is no truth to the rumor of a slot car centerfold...

never seen vector wheels on one of those Rivieras, I think they look good.

it's spelled that way on my birth certificate...so they were messing that up as far back as 1957. and since that is the typical Irish spelling of the name Micheal...and I happen to be Irish, I think it's fair for me to use that version, even it the business name happens to be spelled wrong.

I used my 40% off coupon at two locations in the north Phoenix area, got one at each location. I haven't seen them at Michaels yet or I would have gotten them for 50% off.

me too.

nice work on the engine detail.

This was painted with a base coat of insignia red (for the body and radiator shell), a base coat of metallic red for the fender assembly and candy apple red for the glossy top coat over both the insignia red and the metallic red. Keep in mind this paint job is probably thirty years old. IMG_4612 by Mike, on Flickr

I've seen shifters off-center in consoles (like right on the edge so much that they may look like they aren't coming out of the console) but I haven't seen a floor shifter next to a console...yet. This particular choice of this custom build detracts nothing from the rest of this fine build, great work.

maybe he was just a manslaughter-er...

Earl/Steve is correct, slot car parts can be had fairly easy if you don't mind shopping on the interwebs, if you have to see it with your hands then you have to have a local slot car track/hobby shop that carries slot car parts. I upgraded the wheels on my 1/32 scale 34 Ford with slot car wheels, keep in mind you may be paying more for the wheels than you did for the kit you will be putting them on. I recently acquired some "steel" style rim/wheels for future projects. They look real good and should polish well.

I think this is going to be "hit or miss", I have the '25 T street rod and it has wheels that are all plastic wheel/tire molded together like the original LifeLike/Pyro kits. This kit has no chrome parts. The 1915 Model T Coupelet has separate rubber (or vinyl) tires and plastic wheels and has chome plated parts. Most of the "Classic" series of Lindberg kits had separate tires with plastic wheels. I think all of the "Collectors" series of kits had all plastic wheel/tire halves. So, most likely, if the re-pops are from the Collectors series of kits there won't be rubber tires or plated parts in the box.

you may be lucky that he sold it to someone else, any time I've seen an british car for less than $1,000 it's usually not really "road worthy".

they have to be power mirrors...

careful there...this almost looks like a rivet. but seriously, GM did make a "427"... however, most persons familiar with that version of 427 wouldn't instantly recognize it in your fine and colorful build.

the scale finishes web site has a shipping option for you guys north of the border through Elm City Hobbies.

(now in a readable font colour) From C1 website: C1 Metalizer is a fine rubbing powder that can be applied over a painted surface to create a realistic metallic shine. The powder is very versatile, it can applied over almost any paint type and colour to vary the overall effect. The colour of base coat chosen will determine the hue of the finish - black will create a darker chrome look, metallic gunmetal and metallic blue will achieve a brighter chrome finish. Surfaces can be masked prior to application Decals can be applied on top The finish does not rub off with handling and finger prints can be wiped away which negates the application of any clear coat. The product is very similar to 'Kosutte Gin San' by 'WORK' of Japan but differs in that C1 Metalizer is non toxic and non combustible.

it was all red! I've been mooned!