DPNM

You will probably get quite a few responses.This topic has come up before. Here is a couple post on them and a way to search the forum easier. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/25120-paint-booths-safe-ventilation/ http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/79627-how-do-i-search-for-answers-already-posted-here/

Hey Tom, I have a project in mind where these might be my answer. I watched a video how to and it seems to me they should be applied AFTER painting. I haven't heard of them, much less used them, before your post but that is probably the way I would try to apply them. Then I'd clear coat over top. I'm curious now myself.

8 (your measurement) divided by 25 (your scale) = 0.32 inch. The exact fraction is 8/25 To get a close and understandable from a ruler viewpoint fraction 0.32 is a bit less than a third of an inch. My thought is 5/16 should be close.

I'm in for the Movie Car theme.

You may want to consider putting up a poll soon with some, most or all of what has been asked for as the next CannonBall. If you wait ten days to see how many "Yays" you get for the next CBR you may get an additional 20 different ideas by then. I can not speak for him, Lunajammer posted the current (2019) CBR poll and he may be able to help you post one to decide the next one. You may want to send him a PM concerning how to do it.

From a different thread: "Factory Phantom" CBR (any car or truck that wasn't a production vehicle Ex: GTO station wagon. SS Chevelle 4 door. Corvette truckster/Elcamino) anything that didn't exist but could've or should've.

My vote would go to either the Movie car or Phantom car. I have things in mind for both. As to limiting the Movie cars to "First Come, First Served" there are advantages both ways. As stated on a different thread, if 5 people pick the General Lee it does not mean that 5 people would complete their build. If the 5th person who entered was the only one to finish it they would have been left out if the "F.C.F.S." is put in place. Just something else to consider.

These two have my interest.

I'm not too computer savvy so this is the way I do it. I put the pics I want from my phone into an email to myself. I get on my PC, open the email and save the attachments. This works well enough for me.

One thing that I know of is fingernail polish remover. If it would do it... ... I can't say for certain. You may want to try it on some other prepainted thing first. Fingernail polish remover is not as "hot" as lacquer thinner so it MIGHT work.

FYI Tom, if you will be looking for a 'coptor on feeBay you will find they can be pretty pricey. I was looking for one but unwilling to pay the asked for prices. I did find one after a while at a really reasonable cost so they can be found. As Snake said though, you may be able to find a 1/24 military airplane kit for a lower price. Just a different option if you get sticker shock from the chopper prices on there.

And this was the important part. My user name stands for DeathProofNovaModel and the cars from the movie can be a sore spot with me done incorrectly. Both of my BOYD cars need painted. It got too cold, too soon here in the 'Burgh for me to spray. Gotta do it outside. I have the Mustang also, it has not been started.

Saw this 1960 yesterday while getting gas across the street:

Really nice turnaround on this one Snake. It should sit well on the shelf with your collection. I am so glad you resprayed the hood as the skull and crossed lightening bolts on the Charger are a pet peeve of mine. I built the DP Nova. It has the skull, cross lightening bolts and the duck ornament. I've had the DeathProof Charger (and Challenger actually) about half way done for years. The Charger had the duck hood ornament but no skull with crossed bolts. I may add the Charger and Challenger to your bring out your dead thread at some point. Sorry to rant in your post.

Answers from my experience. Other peoples may vary. 1.) Do you NEED an airbrush? No. Could it be useful? Yes, at times, for some things. Depending on the kit you mention, you will need a compressor also. 2.) Tools would more depend on what all you want to do. A good hobby blade is important (X-Acto type), files, an X-Acto style mitre box with saws are handy. You should have a better understanding as to what tools you NEED once you start building. 3.) Model cement for plastic (I use Testors, fine tip bottle and brush on). super glue, and white glue. White glue is for clear glass (like windshields) etc. White glue is not a great bond but it will not scar glass or paint. 4.) I use wet/dry sandpaper (various grits) and I have a few "fingernail" type sanding sticks. 5.) Depending on where you plan to paint water based paints offer more flexibility as to where they can be sprayed. I prefer lacquer based paint (and primer) but I need to paint outside. The days that I can do that are severely limited. I use rattle cans most of the time. I use my airbrush for spraying custom colors and fingernail polish. 6.) I have no clue as to why one would use varnish over lacquer. It may be to get a different sheen but, at least here in the US most, if not all, the sheens are available in a lacquer based product. Hope this helps and I'm sure others will chime in to help you.

Very good looking build. Nice under-hood detail. I'm glad you figured out how to post the pics. Well done, in both instances.

Even though I am currently not building right now I do have some projects started. I need to paint and the weather got too cold to fast here in the 'Burgh. I have a previous post here where I said I usually listen to Pink Floyd, Metallica and Billy Idol when I build. I haven't listened to them in quite a while. I was looking for something better. I think I found it. It is called Epic music. So far the best, not my opinion alone, is Dwayne Ford. There are others but I would suggest his music first. To me, it's awesome. https://youtu.be/i459XFNYyTQ

In my experience Tom, the cheap knock offs I have are different in two ways from an X-Acto #11. The first pic shows the difference in the tips. The #11 is on the left. The tip of the KO on the right is not broken off. It came tapered like that. Also, the KO is about 1/2 the thickness of the #11. I use this to my advantage at times when scribing as it makes a thinner line. It is hard for me to take a good pic showing this but if you look near the clamp areas you may see the difference. I'm also not sure if they will interchange handle wise. My KO came as a set and I use the handles it came with.

It is a cute "little" thing. I look forward to seeing your progress.

Pretty cool little tractor Vince! Are you building it as the Army Loader or are ya gonna make a puller out of it?

MOON TRASH 3 AMTronic Highlights of the build. I did do the engines similar to my original plan. I modified the two rear ones to look a bit more cool and aggressive, at least to my eye. I moved the front engine to the rear and connected it to the two rears. My theme on the engines was to make them look like garbage cans. The air intake I designed to look like an Insinkerator. I modified the interior, using two of the rear seats instead of the kit front seats. I designed this so either front seat occupant could drive at any given time. I made the steering wheels to look airplane related. The front wheel assembly was also aircraft inspired. I made my own inner rear wheel wells. I had to cut a hole in the bottom to get the rear pumpkin to mount the axle below the underside to get a higher ride height to off-set the height added to the front. It would have been like a nose high Gasser other-wise. The paint is DupliColor Sonic Blue Pearl (name kinda added to the theme) from the rattle can. This kit was, shall I say, troublesome.

From my meager collection: Monogram '57 Corvette Revell Kawasaki Street Racer AMT Lil Red Truck MPC Super Sno Sport (snowmobile dragster 1/20) Fujimi Mazda RX8

Good to see the old steamers still running. Nice you had the chance to see it up close and thanks for the post.

Saw this Saturday.

Thank you for your input too Eric. If you own some and don't think they are that bad I will keep that in mind. They seem to sell for about $10 less than the name brands which is too close price wise for me to consider them .I will keep my eye out for them at shows etc. and buy them if they are priced around the point they were when new.