DPNM

I'd be interested in the nose pieces needed to turn the 79 into a 77/78 if there is a source for that.

Thank you for posting this Pete J. It should be all anyone needs to make the best airbrush purchase for someone who is looking to buy one. Be it their first AB or to add to what they may now need and want to accomplish. Great info. This should be a separate pinned thread. Mods?

I'll add my yea to the painting process. Nothing like seeing the color come alive. Least favorite is the sanding and prep work to get it to the point you can paint it.

I'm catching up Bucky. This is my 4th

I need to catch up on my thank you's to a number of members here. I got a lot of what I was looking for. I hope they are as happy with what they traded for as I am. They are all great traders!!! Thank you gentlemen, I do appreciate your trades. Sam I AM Quick GMC my80malibu Scott8950 Casey

The same way I've been doing it for years. Just have to know when to stop. Before it starts to splash out.

And when you have some time you may want to look through this older thread. As you should see, I am into this look. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/142046-70s-paint-jobs/?tab=comments#comment-2087025

Tough question. You can take as much time as you need to apply the tape, as long as your surface has dried enough to apply it. Having it lift is the big question. IMO the biggest reason for tape lifting has to do with the quality of tape being used. The cheaper the brand of tape the more likely, at least to me, it will lift. Some cheaper brands don't seem to be that sticky. Others may be too sticky and leave tape residue when removed. If you are using a strong paint, like some lacquers, if may start to dissolve the tape where it may also cause tape residue.

You are welcome. Probably your best choice in a beginner airbrush would be a Paasche model H. Single action/siphon feed. I'm sure many others on the forum would agree. Name brand, very good quality, easy to clean and fairly inexpensive. This topic has many posts. You may want to read this: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/73170-buying-my-first-airbrush-or-compressor-questions/ I love 70s paint jobs. That is what I first learned to airbrush. Then again, that was back in the '70s. I recently got a kit that I think would be perfect for that style of paint job. I plan to try to do a "Paint in Progress" when I start it to show how I do it. I paint outside, lacquer, so it isn't warm enough here yet for me to spray. Hopefully in a month, maybe.

Done right you can use Apple Barrel water base and Future as the clear coat. Apple barrel is pretty cheap at WalMart. There are numerous posts on this topic on the forum if you'd care to take some time to find them. Stripping chrome also has many posts.

Not a bad first attempt. I am going to post a pic. The two small/narrow arrows are to show you that you should start your line in the center. You may have been able to curve the tape to not have the abrupt end toward the front of the car. The smaller/fatter arrows show where it looks to me like you may have a kink in the tape (hard to tell by your pics). The arrow toward the front of the car, drivers side. And where it looks like the tape had lifted. You have to be certain that the tape is stuck down. If it kinks and you can't get a smooth curve try it again. Do not worry, you WILL use a lot of tape to do it right. Fat arrow on trunk looks like it was over a raised body line and it lifted. In that case it may be better to custom make the mask from a regular piece of masking tape cut to size with a knife or scissors. I was looking at this closer. It looks like you have wavy curves. Each wave will let paint get underneath. That is why I mentioned you need smooth curves. Hope this helps.

Well...there is some talent. Good Golly Miss Molly. Excellent. Thank you for posting this, or reposting it. Awesome.

This turned out extremely well TJ. Very nice.

I'm interested in the '61 Corvette. The Lincoln and the Cadillac are cool too.

I buy the Little Debbie brand. They are usually less expensive and the quality was fairly good for what they are. Oatmeal pies were the usual purchase. About 15 years ago Little Debbie would offer "Barbie" size dolls on the back of the box. I bought them 3 years in a row to give to my Daughter, when she was of the age, as one of her Christmas gifts. Neat stuff.

I completely understand how real life can intrude on a hobby Cameron. Family and work are a much higher priority. I hope things can get more back to normal for you soon. I knew the kit was delivered. It is good to know you got it Ok. I hope the best for you and your family during these tough times. I look forward to seeing a WIP on the kit you claimed.

I claimed a kit from Little Timmy on the PIF thread and made a trade with him at the same time. I'll trade with him again anytime.

Just so you know, the one scheduled for March 29th was cancelled today.

I've always liked flames. Not the tribal ones. Old time, traditional, you betcha. I plan to try to do the True Fire in scale. Don't know if I can til I try. Brian's design and colors do go well together.

I hope you got them cheap. Still usable if you have an airbrush.

I painted the AMTronic I built for last years Cannonball with Sonic Blue Pearl. Nice color.

If your plotter cuts out the design you are ahead of the game. I still need to use an X-Acto knife. This looks like an '80s era design. I have one in mind using the drips as you have and the torn metal look that was popular back then. Plus maybe a couple stripes and/or checker-board. I also have plans for at least one '70s paint job. Probably more if I can.

Good first attempt. Well done. I would guess a similar pattern on the other side?

Well...it looks like I spoke too soon. I received a text from the VP this morning. The show is Cancelled. This was done by the Fire Department at the event location, not the decision of the model club putting it on. Sorry, I had hoped to see some of you there.