DPNM

Some cool stuff here. Looks like a few bidders got a decent bargain. I only scrolled through the first 100 though. Seemed the vehicles were done by then. The two that caught my eye were the Internationals.

Thank you for taking the time to post all these Alan. Much obliged! Being they aren't $10 kits on feeBay anymore I think I will disregard getting one of these and hopefully I can find a name brand kit for around the same price as these are going for. From what I read of the descriptions in the above reviews these kits are too toy like, and not that accurate. Thank you again Alan.

I've found a couple of these 1/32 kits that have piqued my interest. They seem to sell a bit lower than the other name brand kits. Has anyone bought and/or built one of these? I'd like to know how they compare to the more common Revell, Airfix, etc. kits. Are they accurate to the originals design, good fitting parts, (fairly) easy to assemble? Any input would be helpful and appreciated.

Outstanding. Very well done!

Hey Ray, I sent you a PM.

This would be a cool model. I had one of these "Thing"s back in the day. It was awesome. I hope this would be available in the U.S. as I typically don't purchase model stuff if it has to cross an ocean.

Ray, Ray, Ray (I am shaking my head no at this point). I'll preface by saying that if you go the route you chose, and you get an unsatisfactory paint job from it, there are reasons. I agree with Bill. Get a Paasche H, or a Binks Wren (B, medium needle/nozzle). At least a name brand airbrush. As for the canned air. This will probably cause you more problems than a cheap airbrush. You really can't regulate it that well and what happens if you run out of air before you are finished? Do you have a friend/relative that has a compressor you can borrow? If you want to go cheap on an airbrush (and I don't believe I'm telling you) I found this: https://www.harborfreight.com/34-and-3-oz-airbrush-kit-62294.html They usually offer a 20% discount on one item so you'd be looking at $8.00 plus tax. I do not own one, I have never used one and I plan on never doing so. You can read the reviews and decide for yourself. I think they have a 10% off your entire purchase and I think I got a 30% off coupon in this weeks mail. That coupon is at the bottom of my fairly filled garbage can so I will not be researching that info. I hope your project turns out well.

I know this thread is titled What did you see on the road today?. I spend a good bit of time on the road and have posted some cars I have come across. Most of them were not "on the road" at the time I came across them but I'd like to share at least a pic of what I do see, when I see them. As an example, I talked to this owner today. He does drive them both.

At least for now it has to be the Death Proof Nova Model (and where my user name came from). A whole lot of scratch-built stuff. Used pics of the interior shot car. The website is no longer online that I can find. I have had the Charger and the Challenger almost finished, except for paint and assembly for almost as long as this car has been done (2009). The Mustang is still in it's box, unstarted. They are all waiting for "someday".

Nice score Sam! This one looks exceptionally cool:

These are all done very well. Excellent! You must have been busy juggling in the not too distant past. They all look great. I'm partial to the Vette's myself. Nice rescue on the Tom Daniels and it's good to see an '81-'83 built.

I came across this today:

This is some great reference material. Thank you for posting!

Saw this yesterday. And in case you want to see how to do a bag system...

Cool looking tractor(s)!

I will preface by saying this would NOT be the easiest route you could take. You might consider making your own. I see where Microscale offers a black sheet of decal film (as the stripe looks black to me) that is 4-1/2"x7". Using something like tracing paper you could draw them out until you found what looks to be close enough for you (assuming you have a RR body in hand to use asw a guide). Transfer these patterns to the decal film and cut them out. You could make 3 separate pieces for each side. The two ending at the upper part of the rear window look to me to be connected so this would have to be taken into consideration. You could also make the one that surrounds the hood scoop although including the pinstriping on it may be fairly difficult. Plus adding the Count's Kustom logo to the trunk.

Back in the mid 80s I had a Plymouth Scamp, somewhere around a '71 model. I bought it off a friend for $75. The front end was bad, the front wheels were way off camber. I spent a summer working, and I bought a '77 Harley Sportster, in Maine. I live south of Pittsburgh Pa. I bought the car to go fetch said Sportster. Another friend lent me a pair of the dirt bike wheel racks that attach to a bumper to haul a motorcycle with a car. I mounted a piece of angle iron in the center of the trunk lid to attach the tie down straps to. When I got to the bike I found that the racks wouldn't work because the car wasn't wide enough to mount them far enough apart to set the front and rear tires into. So I had a couple guys help me stuff the bike into the back seat. I loosened and lowered the handlebars and we went in the passenger door putting the front tire against the drivers side and the rear of the bike came around some in the passenger seat area. I didn't need to unbolt the passenger seat. I just slid it as far to the front as it would go and tilted the back support forward. I did have a front tire on the car blow out on the interstate about 50 miles from home. I was changing it on the side of the highway and a PA state Trooper stopped. He looked in the back seat and then he said, "if you go up the road about 100 feet there is more room on the side to pull over". He got back in his car and left. I put the spare on and got it home. I am fairly certain that I did seat belt the bike in but in a somewhat higher speed crash I doubt it would have mattered much. I'm pretty sure it would have pushed me into, and maybe through, the steering column and windshield area. Talk about not thinking things through, but hey, I made it. I tried to sell the car for a week after I got back at $50 with no interest. I upped the price to $75 and it sold the next day. In all it was about a 1700 mile journey. The car did do what I had bought it for. The best most dangerous car I owned was a 1977 Datsun 280 Z. It was set up for autocross so the car would just plain handle. I had no problem keeping big block American cars at bay in the twistys, as long as there were no long straights for them to use their power on. One great car!

I, too, am a DupliColor rattle can user. I recently did a build where I used DupliColor black primer then sprayed a coat of Krylon Color Maxx Clear in the Satin finish over it. I have also used a Matte finish I purchased at a Michael's (or similar store) but I don't think I have that can to check the brand name. I have had no paint compatibility issues using either the Satin or Matte finish over the DupliColor black primer. I may be wrong but I believe the sheen's are in this order (from less gloss to more gloss): Flat Matte Satin Semi-Gloss Full Gloss There may be others but for what you are doing these seem to be the most readily available.

There are a lot of variables and I hope someone more knowledgeable will help to answer your question. I have never used Model Master lacquer so I can not give you a specific answer. I usually use either DupliColor lacquer or finger-nail polish thinned with lacquer. My paint usually blushes, which is moisture trapped under the sprayed surface. I generally spray from the rattle can so adding retarder is not an option. Lotsa humid days here in the 'Burgh. I believe that you will need to sand the orange peel down until you have a smooth, dull surface. You need to be very, very careful sanding on edges, corners and raised parts, (as in the key hole on a door for example). Too much sanding and you will sand through your top coat. Once it's sanded smooth you need to polish it. This is open to what would be the best polish for you. I have my own way but it takes considerably more time. You did not say how you apply it, rattle can, airbrush etc. You may want to experiment on distance from the surface and the speed with which you spray. This may make a difference. I hope this helps and as said earlier, I hope someone more knowledgeable helps you out.

Your build looks good. You do not mention what type finish you are getting the orange peel with. Lacquer, enamel, water-base etc. It may be helpful to know.

The previous post with what was described as the finished model will be my entry. It will go no further.

Just a thought Tom. There is a local store near me named Office Max which I used to frequent often for a job I had previously. I bought my ink jet printer there, which was on clearance, (new in an unopened box) for $25. I bought my laser printer there for about $40, retail was around $119 IIRC. This one was the display model. It came with no box (so I didn't have to store or toss it). It also came with no instructions or the cd to link it my computer. The instructions are on the internet and I was able to link it to my PC with no problem in under 10 minutes. If you have a similar type store in your area you may want to stop in now and again to look for such bargains. I got both of mine by being there on the right day.

Excellent workmanship Ray! A little bit better lighting and background and I'd be hard pressed not to think it was 1 to 1. This was one of the real bicycles I wish I had from back in the day. Never got one.

I was going to suggest a laser printer also. I imagine that you will be comparing the cost of various printers. I would suggest that you also compare the cost of the ink for each one you are considering. A low printer cost with a high ink replacement price will not be your friend in the long run.

And given the frustration I experienced in it's construction I believe I know why it is the only build you have seen. This is the modelling tool that came to mind to use most often: