DPNM

Very fine job on an unusual subject Ray. I had to look the thing up. Pretty interesting reading. I learned something. Thank you. I hear you about the small kits being harder to work on. I've got old eyes.

Here is one with a slight twist. It is a Snap-on (Badger) 360. It is both siphon feed and gravity feed. You rotate the head piece (twist it see what I did there?) for either siphon or gravity feed. It is described by Badger as being an all in one in that it will spray a fine line and also do a wide pattern. The one I purchased used needs a new tip. I plan to order some Badger parts with new tips as part of my order. 'Til then I have not been able to really test it yet. I read "Don's Airbrush Tips" on this model. He and another 360 owner both made larger "bowls" for the gravity feed. It is rather small. I am looking for a piece of stainless in the correct size but I've also thought that the glass from an e-cigarette may work. I will be experimenting. Don's review: https://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/badger-360 Thank you for sharing your trigger style 935k3.

I sent my guess.

A few examples of a double action, side feed airbrush. In front is a vintage Thayer and Chandler model A, On the left is a vintage Paasche V, on the extreme right is a Badger 100XF and the center rear is a Badger 100XFL, left handed model. To my knowledge the T&C only uses a fine needle/nozzle combination. The Paasche V can be changed to either fine or medium needle/nozzles and the Badger 100 XF will accept all three combinations, fine, medium and heavy needle/nozzles.

A few examples of a Double Action Siphon Feed Airbrush. Front to Back: Paasche VL, Sears (Badger) 150 and a Vega 2000. One thing to notice here is the shape of the shell (body). The Paasche is what I would call "pudgy". The Badger and Vega are more streamlined (smaller in diameter) with the Vega being a bit longer in length than the Badger.

A couple examples of a Single Action Airbrush. Paasche H is in front. Badger 200 is on left and Binks Wren "A" on right. There are quite a few airbrushes available that use the same Tip/Needle design as the Paasche and Binks. To adjust the spray pattern you turn the tip in or out depending on what you need. The Badger is a bit unique as it has a needle like a double action. To adjust this spray pattern you turn the inner knob on the rear clockwise or counter-clock wise. This moves the needle in and out.

Airbrush 101 The Basics: There are generally two types of airbrushes. Single action and double action. Single action is like a spray can, you push the trigger down and get air and fluid combined. With a double action you push the trigger down and get air. To get fluid you move the trigger toward the back (rear) of the airbrush. Double Action airbrushes come in three types. Bottom feed, side feed and gravity feed. Bottom feed siphons fluid up into the airbrush, side feed pulls from the center and gravity works on, well...gravity. These should be easy enough to understand. I believe that most, if not all, single action are bottom (siphon) feed. I would recommend buying the best airbrush you can afford first. It will save you time and money. You will need to determine which type is best for you, single or double action. If double action then Bottom Feed, Side Feed or Gravity Feed. Single action is easier to learn and use but you can do more things with double action. How do you know which brand to buy? If at all possible find a store or shop that may have ones that are demonstrators. Holding and “FAUX” airbrushing will give you an idea of how they feel to you. If you know someone who has one, sample theirs. If none of the above, read reviews. I would suggest buying one of the name brands, Paasche, Badger, Iwata, Binks etc. Replacement parts are usually plentiful. New ones should have a warranty. Sure the Knock-offs are less expensive. It may be because they are cheap. It is better to spend a bit more to get more. New or used? I would say new if you know nothing about them. I would suggest buying a used one you can see in person. Craigslist for example. If you want to go eBay be careful. Try to find a seller who knows what they are selling. Many sellers there now find airbrushes at garage/yard/estate sales and have no idea how they work, or, if what they have does work (look for the word untested). If the listing description says “see pics to determine condition” avoid it. Chances are the seller knows less about airbrushes than you do. Used can get you a better airbrush for less, you need to know what you are looking at. There are also (pistol) trigger style airbrushes. I do not have one, yet, so I can not comment on how much of a difference they are to use. It would be one that I would have to hold before I’d make a purchase. I have three words of advice for when you do get your airbrush. Practice, practice, practice.

Thank you Sam

Nicely done!!! I've had an idea along these lines for a while. I looked on the JF site, it doesn't mention the scale that I could find. What scale is it?

MacGyvered is an apt description. I wonder how much better it MIGHT look if the white was painted to match the truck. As is, it's a bit...odd... looking. Too much contrast.

I don't do well finding these but you do come up with some very fine looking automobiles. This car is gorgeous!!!

Well that will keep you busy building for the next few days, then what? Nice Haul!!! Pun intended.

I had a Great Trade with 1930fordpickup. I'd trade with Andy again in a heartbeat. Thanks Andy!

Glad to see you back at it Sam. You've made excellent progress for being away so long. Your Titan is looking good!!! I'll be following.

Excellent build of a cool race car!!! Well done!!!

Good job on a cool race car!!! It is good to see one of these finished.

Hey Michael, don't be so hard on yourself. Stuff happens. I'm with the others that didn't notice it.

You may want to read the label of the window tint as I know some say not to use on plexi-glass. I believe there are some made that are recommended for use on plexi. I know styrene isn't plexi but some tints may attack plastic. Another idea, if you have an airbrush find some cheap (as in WalMart) dark water base paints. Spray the inside of the glass you want to tint. If you don't like it, wash it off. Just a thought.

The only threads would be for the hose. The knock off was a throw in with a lot of airbrushes that I purchased a good while ago. I'm going to ask Paasche if it would be possible for them to .put old style threads in it if I send it to them. The person I'm dealing with there still has a hard time understanding that there are no threads. He thinks that there is still part of the assembly in it. I don't think so. I took a couple pics I hope to send them. Here's one:

I received an email from Paasche. I was given the same diagram that GeeBee posted along with the part numbers. I was told that both the new and old style valve assemblies are threaded. Hmmm, my shell (their term for the body) isn't threaded. I sent another email asking if they ever used press fit assemblies. Maybe I will hear back. Was able to tell mine is an older model. It has the stipple adjuster in front of the trigger. Thinking about it,this airbrush may have been a factory defect that was not caught. The assembly may have blown apart, and much like model parts that go flying, the pieces couldn't be found so it was set aside. Thank you for the idea Snake. I have a knock-off Badger 150 I may see if I can make work. The trigger mating with the air valve of two different systems would seem to be the biggest hurdle as a preliminary thought.

It only helps if someone would know if part H128A has threads that screw into the body. Mine does not have a threaded hole. I've seen the old style, H175A, and it has threads. I sent an email to Paasche and I hope to get a response. Thank you though.

On my porch. I've started thinning my airbrush collection and in the process of searching eBay to get an idea of value I came across this. It really piqued my interest. The Paasche (red handle in the case) is a model VLS. It uses screw on bottles. The two bottles to it's left are threaded. The handle on the chrome Paasche H is made of metal. It adds weight but it may also help balance it. The spare chrome handle is also metal. The Binks Wren is a model C, a bit more uncommon as the typical ones you see are model B. The red handled Paasche H is missing the air assembly and it has me a bit befuddled. I've never taken the air assembly off of one. I've looked for replacement parts. The old style is threaded to go into the airbrush. This H does not have a threaded hole. I'll be contacting Paasche to see if they can shed some light. The last piece, and the one I was interested in most, is the Paasche AU-70. I have found that it is missing the cup but I am going to try to adapt something that will work until I can locate one. This gun seems to have some potential. I'm curious to see how it sprays. I've been spending time cleaning them.

http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/motorcycles/17620-1-6-tamiya-harley-davidson-superglide.html?highlight=1%2F6+tamiya+superglide Click the "show complete first post" button. Pics 4,5 and 6.

I am fairly certain that "Barbie" & "Ken" are 1/6th scale. Don't know if you'd want to use them but you may check eBay or Walmart to see if there is something that you can use. I belong to another forum and guys there use these size females to be with their 1/6th motorcycles. I've never lit a vehicle so I can't help there.

My user name is my avatar.Death Proof Nova Model