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The air extractor in the hood is not correct for the race car in addition the missing NACA ducts but it makes a wicked street car. Great start Will.

Check out the Model Club Section. Not sure what might be close to you. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/forum/17-model-club-news-and-announcements/

The 964 isn't my favorite body style but I'm starting to appreciate them more. I'll be following. I have this RSR kit in the stash. You do get decals, roll cage and racing slicks but Fujimi gives you stock interior and a sun roof(!).

HOW TO BUILD A STRAIGHT TUBE AXLE FRONT SUSPENSION I've built a lot of altered wheel base cars, and though some of them used a dropped tube axle found in some kits, the most impossible to find, was a straight tube axle ! A lot of customers have emailed me and asked if I would cast one in resin ? Well, here is the reasons why we don't, or cant cast them. 1. All cars have a different width, so a single tube axle would not fit all car bodies. 2. Depending on which mag wheel you use, it would alter the distance from the width (fender to fender). 3. The tie rods and spindles are too small & too thin.... and would break easily. In this article we will show you how to scratch build your own Straight Tube Axle.... Reading this article, it may sound difficult, but it's relatively easy once you've done it. Real 1/1 tube axle's are 3" tube, a 3/32" Plastruct Hollow Tubing is used to replicate that scale. (we will show you why hollow tube works best later in this article). 0.45" Plastruct Round Rod is used for the spindle axles, drill holes through the main axle. ( This will be for the spindles to pivot on ). This is how it should look when finished (notice the spindle axles are not even) it doesn't matter, because later the axle will be cut in half. The "SLIDE BARS" that come in these "Sliding bar report covers" found at Staples will be used for the Spindles. My wife bought these a long time ago, and asked me if I could use them......... could I ever ! (You may be able to purchase these individually) ? Cut a piece off the "SLIDE BAR" about a 1/4" wide. Now cut off the ends of the "SLIDER BAR", this will be used for the Spindles. Drill pilot holes holes in the top & bottom and the center of the Spindle, then open it up with a 0.45" drill bit. Round off the ends of the spindle, this will help with its rotation. Small flat head (assortment pack). These nails can be found in any hardware store. The nail will be used for the spindle axle. Depending on what mag wheel your using, measure how long the Nail should be cut. Slip the "SLIDER BAR" (THE NEW SPINDLE) onto the straight tube axle. Because the "Slider bar" has an angle to it, it will not come off when put on........ an added bonus! Here's how everything looks so far. You can see that the Straight tube axle is way too long. You will need to measure as to how far you want the tires to set back in the wheel well. Cut the tube in half, glue a paper clip in one end of the hollow straight tube (this is why you need a hollow tube). Now put the tires back on and make a new final measurement, mark on the hollow tube where your cuts should be. Glue the other side of the paper clip in the other end of the straight tube axle, make sure that the spindles are even & straight. I'm cutting the steering arms off a tie rod from the "PARTS BOX", although you can use whatever steering arms you want, or scratch build your own. Drill 0.45" holes in the ends of the steering arms. Use the same 0.45" plastic rod for the Tie Rod. Carefully & slowly bend the rod to make an L shape and heat it for a split second with a cigarette lighter and let it cool. Set the spindles straight on the axle and mark where the other bend should be. Use a cigarette lighter to melt the ends of the tie rod and flatten with the metal end of the lighter. (THIS NEEDS TO BE DONE FAST, AS YOU DONT WANT TO WARP THE STEERING ARMS) I set mine on fire for a fraction of a second. Or you can heat up a razor knife and melt the ends of the tie rods, let it cool with the razor knife still on the part and twist off. Now were going to set the ride height. This is the most challenging of the build.... but still fun ! Since this model has 1/4 elliptic springs, were going to set the height, by making shocks first. (you may want to add your springs before adding shocks as it may be easier). Place something under the chassis to hold up the front of the model, as to how high or low you want the front of the model to sit. Mark on the frame, where to put the shock mounts, cut small pieces of plastic strip (hanging over the frame). Glue the plastic strip to the frame, and drill 0.45" holes (for the shock ends to fit into). If you can't find shocks that fit, you can make our own shocks.... Here's how. Using the same 3/32" Tube from the straight axle, and 0.45" Steering Rod, start by using the 0.45" Rod, slide the rod through the holes on the shock mounts (on the frame) to meet the Straight Axle. Glue the 0.45 Rod to the axle. Now remove the entire Tube Axle Suspension, add 3/32" tube to the middle of the 0.45" Rod (for the main shock unit), creating new shocks. Here's how your new front tube straight axle may look like before painting. Its up to you, as to how much detail you want to put into it. You can also add steering linkage using the same method.

Anxious to see more of the Porsche 911 SCRS

Nice work Jason.

Very nice Bruce.

Studio27 offers several different decal options. some examples:

It would look something like this.

With R&M's 1" acorn nuts - much better.

Here is what I have come up with so far. The tire is from the Fujimi Porsche 356 I know R&M has these in his catalog. The lug nuts look a little big I might try another set. You need a fairly narrow tire to fit in the rear wheel wells.

I can't tell you Leslie as I don't have that kit. The rims that were cast for me are 16" wheels (outside diameter 17.2 mm). The rim I made is a 15" (outside diameter 16.2 mm)

Flying Lizard have done some great liveries. Great job on this one Paul.

If you have any questions about what I have done so far Jeff, just ask.

Appreciate the comments gentlemen. Added reinforcement to the strut towers. Starting engine assembly

Bruce a mock-up for you with the stock tires on the HRM wheels. There will be little left of the rear rim behind the spokes after it is narrowed to fit the tires.

The sketches are great Casey - thanks for sharing them.

Interior looks good.

What a profound statement on the art of scale modeling.

Enjoying this build Andy.

That was my first thought. Even the wheel arches are similar.

Looks like another great project John - I'll be following.

Nice whittling.

Impressive build John.