Russell C

One of the better mix 'n match rod pickups, I always thought.

This set? https://www.3dscaleparts.com/product-page/1-25-wire-wheel-big-and-little-with-firestone-wide-rear-tires Looks like a good company to bookmark for future reference!

Who is not this guy, right? https://www.ebay.com/itm/354536014005 The proportions of the sleeper in that one appear to be a ways off ...

Filled in the 6 tab cutouts at the floor edges, sliced off the corresponding tabs on the interior side panels, filed off the locator circles for where the rear frame crossmember locates to the floor and filled in the dimpled hole locator areas for the exhaust pipes over the rear axle by just putting a big sheet of really thin Plastruc sheet strip over the whole area. Not sure if I am ambitious enough to fill in the exhaust divots in those parallel ribs in the center of the floor, though. The tradeoff in gluing the back vertical lower part of the firewall to the floor to make for a smooth transition in the transmission hump area is now the giant gap where the forward part of the firewall meets that vertical flat area. Will fix that by adding more material to the back of that now-separate front part of the firewall, but after I took this photo I got the firewall to sit maybe another 64th of an inch further back into the body. Well, the slanted over GM engine mostly fits. Will tweak the platform on the engine where it meets the frame mount and engineer one on the other side so that the engine sits lower and more level (my masking tape of the engine to the transmission is really weak here). Might not actually need any sculpting of the firewall for clearance, although the 1/25 scale mechanics that need to work on this car later will probably curse at the builder for making the valve cover too difficult to lift off the engine at the back in such tight quarters …

Right at the moment, I believe you have to be on their list to receive an email copy of the registration form when they have it ready to go out: http://www.gslchampionship.org/

Naw, in prior efforts it just gave the models more of an incentive to steer right off the shelves ...

Untrustworthy that I am, I don't trust that I can avoid having an air gap happening between the firewall and the floor transmission hump area, if I first glue in the floor and then the firewall to the body. So I cut the back-most flat area of the firewall/hump area off and glued that to the floor now, where I can smooth in the area when the glue dries and ensure it is seamless. I can always add in some shim bits to the back of the firewall as I have it now, to make sure it meets up again perfectly with that flat vertical area. I may also have to sculpt it a bit if the slant GM engine has any clearance issues over in the driver's side area. Filled in the hole for the automatic tranny floor shifter since I will have a column shifter. Later, if things work out right, you'll see why I need a smidge more floor space.

The reality there is that I altered the original photo off Craigslist or some other place, where it was just somebody's stillborn hot rod wagon project.

Corvair hot hatch?

Oh, good, I was aiming for something in the range between 5 and 11.

The cobbling-together of the Revell kit's oil pan back area to the glue bomb Red Baron pan I had (the longest ribbed chrome one I had in my parts pile) worked out as well as I guessed. Friction-fit the head and new passenger side wall on the block before final gluing. Change of plans on the Revell valve covers which have slight top arch curves that won't look good when spliced together, so I'll put together the sanded off Edelbrock covers out of the AMT '34 Ford street rod. That center ridge will lend itself better to the long "Chevrolet" letters decal I have. It is really long. I usually run out of fingers counting up that sort of thing. Probably less than 13 from the looks of it so far ….

Missed this thread from years back, great starts! I have a weakness for the long hood L Fords, and halfway recently wondered what a phantom late-70s round quadlight version might look like, so I did a quick photo alteration of one of the Ford brochures. Alas, no available time to take on such a model project ...

Wow, I've surfed across his various posts, but missed this one on his assortment of cabs:

Have not heard of this company before - one to bookmark! https://www.bolidemodels.com/shop

Day cab already available in kit form ....... if ya don't mind that it is 1/87 scale and a bit more primitive that what the box illustration shows. (dump body might also be available in the same scale for model railroad builders)

Somehow I missed this whole thread until today. Way back in 2014 I encouraged Dan to join MCM and post some of his 3D artwork, his one thread is this one - I'd encourage you guys to have him dive back in here to tell us all a little more about his work as it applies to the ever-growing 3D printing.

Nice job! I forget where I read it several years back, but the reason the 1:1 had a Pontiac is because it was built after the model kit came out, and the airplane engine that Tom Daniel put in his kit design would have been way bigger in scale than it is depicted in the model. Or something to that effect.

Beefed up the front shock towers then glued them in place using the temporally pinned-together shocks to hold them in proper alignment overnight. Lucked out in my first attempt to put the two up and over s-bends in the steering link, might need just one more slight tweak. Using the channeled body option steering column because I think it looks better. Will be filling in the gaps around the shock towers next so that it looks like a pro-welder 1:1 installation. Making good headway on turning the V8 into an inline. Reinforcing ribs will be added to the black part of the passenger side of the engine next. The distributor will end on this driver's side similar to the way those are but mirror-opposite on Dodge slant engines. Added side drain plugs to the transmission pan, 'late-turned' on my motor tool from little bits of old white metal sprue I saved from a 1/87 scale semi-truck kit.

The guy who creates those images does indeed have killer talent!

I have no practical machining experience either, so I can't help there. My late father was an expert machinist, however, who did the rear wheels for my Lambo 300 and the outer rims for my Lambo Flambé. I have less than zero math comprehension skills, what I do is pure eyeball engineering which probably sends machinist experts crawling up the walls. Best advice I have is practice, practice, practice on various scraps (always wear eye protection!), and these days, observe whatever lessons there might be out at "Youtube University" on hobbyist mini-lathe machining. Plus if anyone in a local club can show you the procedures in person along with all the safety measures, that's even better. Plastic does melt at higher spinning speeds, that's true. The 'lathe-turning' - in quote marks - I also do on my motor tool for really small parts is at its lowest setting, which is something less than 1000rpm. For example, in the above photo of the sliced-apart steering link, the little cylinder end that connects to the spindle was chucked into my motor tool and turned using a razor blade to get it to a more cylindrical shape before I drilled the hole in it for the new wire rod. Basic idea illustrated below, but I use two hands, of course.

Will be keeping an eye on this. Saved a bookmark in my widebodies collection years back from Yasid Design on a more extreme pro touring since it looked like a neat idea.

Thought that might be the case - instructions not helpful there since the last 2 pages show both versions in the front view using the lower of the two notches (not that I know how to follow instructions anyway). I scouted through a bunch of completed model photos, including some in this guy's Fotki collection, and it looked like some modelers were using the upper one, and others filed it into one big notch. A little hard to tell in some builds. Will be sculpting on mine a bit more. The other reason I wanted mine separated from the shocks was so that I could glue them to the frame and paint everything the same color. Will be using curved wire rod brackets to hold up the headlights that's less of a wide-eyed appearance. Below is the new polished aluminum rod steering link, before bending / shorting to the proper length, since I extended the frame for the longer inline engine. Also, seeing where I need to scribe the inside of the frame for locating the radius rod brackets when I glue them in after painting the frame. Beefed up the tab on the transverse spring for a more solid fit to the crossmember. No more parting lines on the tops of the spindle arms, but also no more chrome. Some bits of chrome mylar adhesive-back material should do the trick to fix that. The steering box will have to be located a bit farther forward, but I'll drive off that bridge when I get to it.

Couldn't leave the front shocks alone. The shock bodies are good enough for me, the parting lines on the sides aren't too noticeable, but the lines were a bit more noticeable on the shock rods, and I'd prefer to have a different color tone to those rods, via polished aluminum wire. Drilled out the bottom shock mounts, stretched silver gray plastic sprue will serve as the bolts to the axle, a little more sturdy than the tiny pins on shock mounts. Don't know why this kit has two notches in the brackets that get glued to the frame, so I'll fill in the top notches. Will also drill out those big holes a little more neatly, they didn't form well in the kit I got.

Missed seeing this thread until tonight. Quality work! The Miura could just as well be a photo of a 1:1. How did you build the campfire, though? ?