Richard Bartrop

That would be nice. AMT's '57 already has a Meteor grille. All it needs is a couple of corner pieces, and various bits of trim to make the conversion.

I have my own opinions on the intelligence and mental stability of people who camp out to buy game stuff. I suppose I could camp out on the guy's front door, but a trip to Maryland does seem a little excessive, and he might not be all that pleased by finding some stranger sitting on his front porch waiting for parts.

Sorry, I remembered wrong.

I sent an email query in February, and still no reply. The parts do look very nice, but if he really doesn't want to do business with me, what can I do?

Monogram's 1930 Packard has one.

Nice work!

A little late to the discussion, but if you have a pin vice and some tiny bits, as modelers tend to have, drill a hole in the bottom of a coffee can, or other large can, to make a pinhole projector. Cut a hole in the lid and tape some paper across it for a screen. For a larger image, cut the bottom out of a second or third can, and duct tape them all together.

And I can just imagine the uproar when they bumped the price up to 19 cents.

Neat! Now they just have to come out with a Monarch, and a Meteor.

The Imperial and the Lancer definitely have my interest. So do the other Mopars, for that matter.

It does have its redeeming qualities. I do think it looks more like a real '36 than the AMT kit, and the latest edition does have those nice vintage custom parts, it's just the way it goes together is weird. In retrospect, I'm wondering if the best way to tackle the coupe is to take a leaf from the plane modeler's book. Build and paint the interior, including the windows, assemble the body, then mask the windows and paint the body.

I built the convertible version of that one, but I am working on a couple version of one of the early issues. Gluing the roof on and filling the seams before painting is the sensible thing to do, though you'll probably want to paint the interior of the roof first, as well as the shell behind the seat. Attaching that rear window once everything is painted is going to be journey into madness.

Bear in mind that what you see in a photo is going to be affected by the lighting, the sensitivity of the film (or the sensor), whatever tweaking the photographer does, and the settings of your monitor. Scanning a photograph adds more variations, and even more if it's been scanned from a page in a book or magazine. It's basically a game of telephone, and you can have a dozen photos of the same truck, and each will look different. Unless you have an original Chevy Cameo you can compare a swatch with, there's going to be some guesswork, and at some point you're just going to have to go "Eh, close enough" TS-7 does have a slight yellow tinge compared to Tamiya's pure white, though not quite as much as say, Humbrol Ivory. As was mentioned by others, some whites will yellow with age. Humbrol's white is really bad for that, and will probably give you a darker ivory than you really want.

Funny thing, the beam axle in the rear triggered a memory of a basic pickup that used an air cooled VW engine up front driving the front wheels.

Especially nice job on the top chop. I'm always impressed when people can pull that off on later model tops.

Original art isn't cheap, and whatever the shortcomings of some of their kits. they did have some very nice box art.

For small lenses, shavings of clear red sprue dissolved in liquid cement, in a heavy foil mould. Here's what I used to make Studebaker taillights for a custom '36 Ford.

I totally get the appeal of the printed book. I collect art books and graphic novels, and my favourite car publication is still my complete set of Automobile Quarterlies. They're a joy to experience in a way that data on a screen just doesn't do. However, sometimes it's just the data you want, and for what most magazine publishers are offering for what they're charging, I don't need the experience of the printed page that badly.

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A couple of thoughts about that: 1) How compatible are those parts with the block from the Revel '40 & '48 ford flatheads, which has the proper transmission? 2) Saw off the automatic, and replace it with one of the shortie transmissions from the Atlantis Part Pack kits?

I'll definitely be getting it just for that very nice flathead.

Too bad if the wires wheels aren't there. Hopefully, they'll at least be an option.

Nice! The Pyro kits build up surprisingly well.

As always, the H.A.M.B. is a gold mine of info on the subject. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-history-of-flames.321688/ Here's a photo of a flamed racer from before the war., George Rubsch's Skip it. The photo that some claim is the inspiration for flame paint jobs. Taken in 1938 at Gilmore Stadium.

I was looking right at AC's and went "Nah, it couldn't be..."