youpey

oh my goodness. i really wish i didnt click this thread. these prices are great, what i remember them being. now they are so high its nuts. my bank account will suffer for this

how do you fix light scratches in windshields. some of my older kits didnt have the glass pieces in separate bags so they are scratched from rubbing the plastics against it

Slot cars are one of my big hobbies. i got into it years ago and slowly it grows. i only have my rally cars on this picture, my race cars and muscle cars are in a box not pictured. these are 1/32 scale. the track is 8 foot by 5 foot

What tool did you use to make the lines on the sides, and how did you keep them so even and straight? Is that .040 flat styrene? I have been wanting to build something like this for a really long time. i have interest in doing a diorama.

this model is for my birthday. since i got it through the mail, my wife let me open the box to verify the contents are in good shape. while i was checking the pieces i saw the instructions call for lemon yellow (x8), which does not come in a spray. however, lemon yellow looks a lot like chrome yellow (ts47) i have never seen one of these cars in person, so i really am not sure of what is the right color. i think camel yellow is almost orange, so i am going to try the chrome yellow first on a spoon or 2 and see how it goes. maybe i will try it with a black base coat to darken it a bit

this is the real car

i can only use spray paints and tamiya is really the only one i had great success with. would this be camel yellow https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tamiya-24027-Renault-R5-Turbo-Rally-car-9-Elf-plastic-model-kit-1-24-USA/352322363162?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

what level of shine paint for vinyl seats? is it semi gloss, matte? i am looking to do a dark green interior with vinyl seats, but i am not sure of the level of shine to look for on the paint? i am limited to spray paints

i only just found this thread after visiting my lhs. at my lhs the guy tries to sell all kinds of snake oils and stuff as the next big thing. i typically ignore him, but this time he said that it is all he uses now. i tried it and loved it

i am hoping you dont mind the tips below. did you happen to primer the body before painting it? also, i had paint cracks one time and found that by lightly sanding the body with 1200 then 1500 sand paper going opposite directions, then washing very thoroughly with dish soap before the primer and i never had any issues again. Also, make sure the primer is the same type of paint as the paint itself. like acrylic primer with acrylic paint (i typically try to use the same brands if possible). I spend more time prepping the plastic vs actually painting also, i found that if you do multiple thin coats instead of thicker coats will give you a paint job that will not run. The thinner the paint, the quicker it will dry/less likely for dust and other stuff to get into the paint. * the more coats you do does give more opportunity for dust or other stuff to land in the paint. your interior and custom work is tremendous.

i was going to necro a thread just today with a question about a specific model. the thread was last posted in about 1 year prior to today. i searched her and could not find the answer, but found the thread, which was the history of that particular model with all of the different re-boxes. i ended up using google and found my answer elsewhere (ebay actually on an open box version for sale), but its funny that you asked why necro a thread. i was going to put it in that old thread because it was a thread specifically about this one particular model, and would be nice to have the info all in one place.

i dont know why this keeps happening but it caused me to take a break from modelling for a few years. i am trying to get back into while i still can, but i have this silly problem that keeps happening. i can never finish a model. either i get so far into building the model and i make a mistake in the painting of the body and i cant fix it perfectly or i get really far into the painting and detailing of the model and then another model takes my interest. one of those two things keeps happening and i end up with many mostly done or thrown out models, if the paint is not mistake free. currently i am working on the dodge ramcharger. i had many issues of the painting of the body, but i was able to correct it to a mostly mistake free finish. Then i let it dry for a few days (probably 3 or 4) and i mask off the body to paint the engine compartment. of course, that is where things go wrong. as i pulled off the masking tape, paint was pulled off with it on one spot on the fender. i tried to sand it down the best i could and re-spray it, but i can still see the mistake. i tried my best, but i can't seem to get it perfect again. because of this, i lose interest in the model. since i never display a model that has any visible mistakes, they always end up in the trash. i am forcing myself to finish this model because i havent built a model in several years and want to finish it, but i already have my eye on my next build. and because i stopped caring about this build i am making more mistakes and rushing it along to finish it. I honestly dont know how to break myself of this because i love building models, but it gets so frustrating that i let myself get to this any ideas on how to correct this lack of caring/rushing at the end of build? i know i need to stop this perfectionist mentality that i have, but i cant seem to btw, this is the third or fourth time i have tried to finish a ramcharger, each time something stopped me from finishing it.

Thanks, I heard back yesterday and they told me they had none and i could try back at a later time to see if they got some at a later time. Right now i have the hood taped down to exactly where i want it and i put it back on the shelf in hopes that if i keep it taped down for a week or 2 it will take that shape. the other hood i tried both hot water and a blow dryer and i ended up messing the hood up pretty bad so that one would only be good on a junker i think. I was surprised they just said sorry we cant help you. It really makes me think i will not buy another one of their kits again. i understand stuff happens, but i would have thought they would have put in a backorder or something for me, not just tell me to keep trying later on. Especially with the costs of kits these days

i would think kit bashing pieces could be set as a standard price. maybe 50 cents per piece. if you have 2 engine halves it would be 1 dollar. obviously the cost would be defined later or if anyone had any better ideas, i would love to hear it.

i hope they fix the issue with the warped hoods. i bought 2 kits from them both had really warped hoods. i am doing my best to unwarp them, but i am not having much luck. i emailed them on sunday to see if a replacement hood can be sent, but i havent heard back yet i googled it and it seems like a common problem.

i love stepsides but they just dont look right. as was mentioned above, it doesnt line up with the bottom of the truck. If GM was to make a stepside that looked right i would buy it in a second. even with losing the 2 feet of usable space in the bed, i just love them. meh, now i want to pack up my nearly completed ramcharger and build a stepside

i love the stepside. i will get this one for sure when it is available

i am currently looking to build a mid to late 70's or early 80's ford or chevy pickup. However, i am looking to find one that will not be terribly difficult to build because of bad fitting or poorly made kits. i currently have the following kits, but i am having/finding issues with each of these kits. this kit has the bed in multiple pieces with not much in the way of guides, and i cant get it to lay flat. the ford version of this has a similar issue then i tried the mpc deserter kit and the both the front and rear leaf springs are really warped and i am having trouble getting it to line up then i tried the moebius model ford ranger and model king f100 kits but the hoods and other pieces are really warped. is there any others that are good quality that wont have warping or poor fitting pieces? i am currently trying to fix the moebius and the mpc deserter kits, but i am really not very skilled with fixing them and i always end up making it worse. i keep trying, but i havent had great success yet. any ideas on kits to try would be greatly appreciated, and i will continue to try to build each of these still because i really would like to have have a nicely finished model of these

i was going to say that as well. my wife and i were speaking about this, and i was in much better shape financially 10 years ago then i am today. the prices have increase exponentially more than my pay has. i made the mistake of not buying a house because i hate the state i live in and didnt want to stay, but here i am, still here with rent that goes up every year. my rent is 2x higher now vs my sister's mortgage. i guess i am just stupid when it comes to money

i hope this is ok to discuss on a modelling site, but it seems to me cars/trucks prices have gotten so high these days in 2012 i bought a brand new gmc sierra 1500, 4x4 5.2L V8 and it cost around 28000. Like a dummy I traded it in for a car and that car didnt work out for me. i am looking again to buy another GMC, however the same exact configuration i had in 2012, is now 37000. That is 9000 dollars higher in just 6 years. I looked at other cars and trucks, the Chevy Colorado V6 4x4 is about 31000, which is still higher than my sierra, but its a much smaller truck. Its not just chevy/GMC either, the ford f150 for the V8 4x4 is over 37000 when it was about the 29000 or 30000 in 2012 with the same configuration. I am not adding a bunch of add-ons either with these configuration prices, just the V6 (or V8 if available) and 4x4 and power windows. I am not looking at getting the higher optioned trucks. So then i looked at cars, the average american car (not small cars, but regular sized cars) and they are all in the 26000 to 30000 dollar range too. I am sure it has been slowly building it up to the current prices, but it feels like new car prices are out of hand now. I suspect i will end up with a rear wheel drive truck instead of 4x4 because of the large price difference. I also feel the longer i wait to save up, the more it will cost. the more i look at the prices, the more i wished i didnt get rid of my sierra. I was so stupid and i curse that day

I am checking interest on a CBP of a 30 dollar build. This 30 dollar limit includes the cost of the model, the paint,primer, glue, and any aftermarket pieces you want to put on. The only thing that is not included in the price is the tools to build it, like brushes, razors, side clippers, sandpaper etc. Any car/truck is allowed, but you must keep track of the prices (estimate if the item was purchased previously). I am assuming everyone already has paint, primer, glue, etc, but they still need to be counted in the price. if you bought the glue 10 years ago for 2 dollars, that 2 dollars must be included in the total, even though you aren't purchasing it again. Price excludes shipping? TBD: on the cost of shipping to be included on the final tally. i am leaning towards exluding shipping costs if applicable. i chose the price of 30 dollars being that most new kits costing 30 dollars without any building supplies. it would take a lot of sales or coupons or low cost supplies to keep it below the 30 dollar limit. let me know what you guys think. do you think 30 is too tight, does it need to be 40 or maybe even less than 30.

i used my teeth once to open a lid. once. i really dont recommend it. it was in my younger, dumber days. all joking aside, thanks for the tip. i too have had to toss paints for stuck lid

as of now i have used it on my revell and amd kits and it stripped the chrome off completely without fail.

he said it was because it was the body of the car they needed to verify it. they said if it was any other part, it wouldnt need to be sent. It turned me off of revell for a long while, and i didnt buy any of their new kits for years after that. i would only buy older or "used" kits. it was my version of "not giving them my money" i figured it was similar with this case because it was the body needing to be replaced.

i use diet coke (regular coke works too, but seems diet works a bit faster). no joke. it takes 2 days or 3, but there is always soda in the house and there are no toxic smells and it doesnt make the plastic brittle like some of the other cleaners. It is usually one of the first things i do since it takes a couple of days i havent tried it with paint, just chrome parts.