Straightliner59

Yes! The new grille is excellent! You're making great progress.

Leave it to Grump!

@Pierre Rivard, Here's the (almost) latest...I had to cut slots in the seat back, for the shoulder straps, as I had forgotten to do that, prior to paint. They're barely visible. They aren't in these photos. The interior is coming together. I'm pretty happy, with it! Here's how it looks, mocked-up. Thanks for looking!

Thanks for your kind words! That should be doable, I think. I used the front wheels from a Boot Hill Express, on mine, for the same reason, but, I didn't want to take the time. I'll be interested in seeing it come along!

This is cool! Those wheels look much better! Nice work on the torsion shocks/arms, too. That engine looks kind of like a Donovan, given the early hemi heads. The block doesn't look quite right for an early Donovan, though. "Kansas" John Wiebe ran a beautiful, Donovan-powered long-wheelbased FE top fueler you might get some ideas and inspiration from: https://www.mlibhart.com/p660554854/h22F3465F#h22f3465f

Way cool! That's a neat old kit! I talked a guy out of one about 40 years ago. It was a bagger, but almost complete. I asked him if I could build it for him (he collected stuff, but wasn't a builder). Reluctantly, he let me have it. I cleaned it up, and put my own touch on it. I scratchbuilt the headers and made some aluminum injector stacks. I made a new seat back from balsa, 1/32" birch plywood and parchment paper, soaked with diluted white glue. The fuel tank is Detail Master. Fuel lines are MSC heater hoses. He wouldn't take it back. It, and a glue-bomb Long John fueled my love for old Monogram kits! A couple of these are double exposures I took one day, just messing around. I added the "Conrad's Engine Service" markings a couple of years ago.

That's brilliant, Greg! Simple and super-functional!

Thank you, my friend! Interesting you should ask! I just shot it with Krylon Satin Black. That made it the same color as the seat, so I wrapped a little Parafilm around the bottom, to keep the brackets clean, and shot flat clear on the seat. I am hoping to mount the dash, later! Thanks for checking in!

Spent some time fixing a couple of minor things--I moved the pedals forward a few inches (about 4"). I also drilled a couple of holes in the firewall for the throttle linkage and for the wiring. Moving the pedals forward led to extending the driver's side floor pad. The seat's painted, and the mounts attached. I added bracing to the rear of the cage, along with tabs for the harness. I started the lap belts, and have the wine bottle foil cut and painted, for the rest. It's coming along! Thanks for looking!

I hope you're taking another break. Profile shows last visit in January.

Thanks, Joe. I'll take a look at one. I have the Monogram kit because I saw it in a little collectible toy shop in downtown Anoka, MN, for $10. Back in the '80s, it was "all that"! ?

Thank you, Brian! I appreciate it. Yeah, that's one of the things I like about race cars, is that bare bones quality.

Yes, I think a model RR would be an insane pursuit for me to begin! I still think I might do a piece of wall art, some day, though. I have an idea, for that. Narrow gauge steam loco on a cliff face with a wooden trestle. Something like that, maybe. The test driver (I call him!?) is something I have just started using. I've generally eyeballed stuff, and have avoided any glaring issues. Recently (which, at this stage of my life, I'd consider within the last five years!), I noticed him lying on the bench and decided to use him to align stuff. If I can build an articulated one, I think it could be even more useful. As always, thank you for your kind words, David! I appreciate the suggestion, D.W.! It's the best setup for anything in which the seat is close to the firewall. As far as the patience thing--it's just what I love to do! I don't place any deadlines on my stuff. I don't build for contests, although I enjoy competition. My models are simply my visions of automotive art, inspired by 1:1 cars I've seen. It might be an overall appearance, or just some detail I think is cool! I'm just having a ball, with it! Thanks for your kind words, sir!

I used some Hobby Black, rubbed with aluminum powder, to finish the throttle pedal. The linkage arm will get attached to something on the firewall, so it looks like it's going to where it needs to be. I don't see any point to building the linkage parts that would be behind the dash, although I know how I'd configure them. I need to drill the firewall, where the linkage to the injector's "brain" will come through. I also had to narrow up the clutch/brake pedal assembly. That was relatively easy. Thanks for looking!

You, sir, are a gentleman and a scholar! Thanks for those, Greg.

I found something I think will work, nicely for the rod. I think mine's a little too far back to mount it to the firewall. My test pilot's foot wouldn't reach it, there.? I built a very similar one, to that for my Model A coupe project.

These make for cool-looking drag cars. I think they just re-released the MPC one.

Thanks, David! I've spent a few days working out the throttle pedal. NHRA's rules require a positive return device, so that the throttle can be "lifted", in the event of a return spring break, etc. After several false starts using other materials, I came back around to brass. It's since been dipped in Hobby Black. I have a couple of little things to add, yet. Anyhoo...this thing has taken way longer than it should have! As you can see, the return loop fits my test driver's foot. By using a figure, I can align him with given objects, to be sure that my model could actually be sat in, and driven, if it was 1:1. Due to his inflexibility, he can't always be positioned where he would actually be, and I have to rely on sight-lines. A couple of days ago, I was digging through some parts boxes, and found more pieces for another Monogram Sprint Car driver. I think that, at some point I will see if I can articulate one, to make it a bit more able to nestle into place. It's important to me that the things I build be at least practicable, if not entirely practical, or common. Part of that is making sure that everything the driver needs is actually within reach. Thanks for looking!

That's way cool! All I got done was buying a few things--building kits, landscaping stuff, a few of Kalmbach's old books. I never got past the planning stage. It is always neat, to find old photos of stuff like that!

I would agree, regarding the Fireball Modelworks parts. All Joseph's stuff is top-notch! If I was going to repair yours, I would use a liquid cement. It will create a joint as strong as the plastic, and, when you press the ends together, you should get a little "ooze", which will become its own filler.

I always wanted to build an N-scale railroad. So glad I never started! This hobby costs me enough. Plus, I would probably end up detailing the insides of buildings--you know, dishes in an open cabinet, a dresser with an open drawer with folded clothes. It would just be stupid! ? I have a few aircraft kits, now. Monogram's 1/48 Warthog, because I love A-10s, Revell's 1/32 Hawker Typhoon, and about 10, or so 1/144 scale kits. That's my favorite scale, for planes. There's been more than one occasion in which something I learned building other genres of models has come in handy, when building my cars! The more you know...

Very cool, David! I have built few planes, over the years, along with a couple of pieces of armor, a few small figures, and weathering and detail painting on a couple of N-scale rail cars. I think that variety helps us become better modelers. Great job solving a problem, my friend!

Exactly! If it works in 1:1, it'll work, in scale, so long as you're patient enough to get there. I build my chassis (mostly dragsters) on a 1/2"X4"x12" piece of balsa. I mark the longitudinal center line, wheelbase and overall length, front and rear track widths and motor plate. That usually will gets me started. Once the brass is cut and shaped, it's pinned into place and soldered. That's how I built the chassis for this car.

This will be a good "follow"! Looking good, so far, Pierre!

I'm an idiot! I just realized those are the tops of the boxes, not the ends. DUH!