peteski

Good trick. I have one of these from Micro-Mark, but it will not work for very small diameter materials.

3D items printed by Shapeways are not smooth. They have very small striations (printing artifact) and rough surface. In order to make the surface look like smooth polished steel, the surface needs to be perfectly smooth and shiny. If you ever used Alclad II Chrome paint (which has to have the base surface smooth and glossy, usually by giving is a coat of gloss black), you understand what needs to be done for the polished steel look. Actually Alclad makes Polished Stainless Steel paint, and if you use the same the technique that you use for Chrome paint, you will get that polished steel look.

While the chart is handy, calculating the size is really not rocket science. Just a basic math operation. And in my experience the outside size of the rim is always 1.5" larger than the tire bead size. At least in passenger cars (which is what this is all about). It is just the way the tire and wheel design works.

The wrinkling? To me that is normal. I see that on some of my sheets too. It is perfectly usable.

No baking soda in my arsenal of CA glue additives/accelerators! It is a bad ju-ju! CA glue takes about 24 hours to fully harden. If sanded within few hours of setting, it should be just as soft as resin. Just don't wait till the next day. ANd use the accelerator designed to work with CA glue - not some home-brew solution. BSI brand accelerator is IMO the best.

Well, it is just another type of acrylic (water-based medium), correct? Snake mentioned "'I've seen Sharpie migrate and bleed up through Future after a number of years.", so even with the fixative the problem might not show up right away. Seems that placing the model in a display case would be the safest bet.

Sounds like no clear coat is safe whether it is solvent or water based.

Yes, they fit the hobby knife (X-acto) handles, but they are very thin and some handles have blade chusks that do not close tight enough to hold it securely. Then you have to make a spacer and chuck both the blade, and the spacer in the chuck for tight fit. You might also want to review a sticky thread in this forum: Yes, it goes back to 2007, but it has lots of useful info.

Norm, Excuse me for being pedantic, but if you mean Future (or Pledge), then it is not a "floor polish". It is a "floor finish". Polish has no body (thickness) to it, while Future is actually a clear acrylic coating which has some thickness to it. Yes, polish and finish can be used to make floors shiny, but we use Future as a clear finish (coat). There is a recent active thread in this forum about pros and cons of using Future as a clear coat.

Most solvent based clear lacquers will make Sharpie ink run. I would not trust anything other than Future (or whatever it is called now) to coat your model. Why do you want to clear coat it? Were the original decal clear coated? If it is grungy, dusty, the lacquer will just seal in the dirt.

Yes, ink jet and laser/Alps papers are different and have to be used in a printer they were intended for. Ink jet paper has some sort of liquid ink absorbing coating (gel?) so the ink does no bead or flow out. If ran through a laser or Alps printed, then can jam them. Laser paper has smooth surface and liquid inks will bead up on it.

Since manufacturers of promos needed time to design the models and cut the molds, is it possible that promos were based no on a production cars but on some close-to-final-design pre-production prototypes? Things like bumpers and grilles would have been not finalized yet.

LOL! Once couple people get in, the camber gets back to normal. Toe-in. well that's another story. They are trying to wear in the tire tread.

IIRC, that stuff (white in liquid state and clear when dry) is a water-based product. As such, it will likely make the ink jet ink run.

Is it waterslide decal paper, or (as your post states) just a plaint or photo ink-jet paper? If it is decal paper then you would need to seal the images with some sort of clear coating. Ink jet printer is water-soluble, so without being sealed, it will dissolve when placed in water. If it is just regular paper, and you will simply cut the images out and glue them to the dash then there is no need for any extra protection, However if exposed to sunlight, the image will fade slightly after few years. Not sure if clear coating it will protect it. Also clear lacquer might soak into the paper making it translucent.

Wow! When I saw the photos of that van I thought those were photos of the 1:1 scale van (you would be using for reference), not a model! You are likely taking the photos with a wide-angle lens, which exaggerates the perspective, making a small model look like a full-size vehicle. Only when I saw the photos of the van next to the catering truck I realized that I was fooled. Well done!

Nice review Jonathan, but when you describe the kit in the beginning of the video, you state that it is 1:24 scale. The box art shows 1:25 scale. The clear plastic chin spoiler does seem a bit odd.

I bought the basic Sherline lathe about 35 years ago, from Micro-Mark. Way before the Internet and online merchant presence. Micro-Mark stopped selling them for many years, but they are again carrying the Sherline line of products. Then I started adding accessories, a little bit at a time. I describe this in: I recommend reading that entire thread.

Yes, I love the wraparound backlight on the Toronado XS! A man mom worked for in the '80s owned one of those (in white) and I always thought it was a super elegant looking car. I own a 1:1 '85 Eldorado Biarritz and I too would love to see a kit of the '79-'85 made in 1::24 or 1:25 scale. NEO makes one in that body style in 1:43 resin, It is a pretty model, but small.

Steve, why you keep torturing us by showing us all all those delicious dishes? I'm drooling! I also want to know who washes the dishes.

It all depends on his upbringing up to this point. If since his was born his parents let him get away with everything, it might be difficult to set boundaries at five years old when he visits uncle Ron..

Does anybody *REALLY* know what time it is? I love how you took some "spare parts", and made something useful and artsy out of them.

Yes, this should be a fun quiz, and unlike the last quiz, this one is kind of cute.

Seeing that photo sure brought back some memories. I grew up in Poznan (one of the places where Tarpan was produced) and I have seen plenty of them on the streets of Poznan. Those are utility vehicles, usually used on farms, and yes, I always thought they were not very pretty. I didn't say "ugly", because they look to be build for function more than for form. Funny thing is that the general arrangement of the early 2000s Chevy Avalanche (and the Cadillac version) is a bit reminiscent of Tarpan. For more fun facts about this vehicle see https://tractors.fandom.com/wiki/FSR_Tarpan Also Tarpan in polish is a breed of extinct wild hose (see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tarpan ), so could we consider this vehicle as a Polish Mustang?

Yes, thank you Aaronw for the comparison. My Sherline is more than adequate for any model-related machining I do. What's nice is that it is relatively light and portable, so it can be easily moved. I don't have enough bench space for both, the lathe and milling machine. I have each machine mounted on a wooden base, and I can easily swap between them as needed.