peteski

Ah, ok. I see the orange peel. For me, thinning the paint takes care of the orange peel problem. I like to spray my paint on wet. But I have never used Splash paints, so I can't offer any advice.

You're doing a great job in that bus! I also have that kit (unbuilt), and I'll be watching your progress. I did not know that there was a PE kit for it (but I guess I'm not surprised).

That steering wheel looks great. It looks to be a standalone model by itself. What scale is that thing? Looks large. Maybe 1:4 scale?

I can't decide if this thing is cute or ugly. I originally had the same feelings about the first generation Scion xB (Toyaota bB) I owned for 12 years, but then it grew on me. I miss that car (aka. fridge, toaster, box).

Very good! But where did the Splash Paints, or a problem with them were mentioned in this thread? Was that just out in the left field comment?

Good job on the model Mike! I should also add that since you not only had the actual kit in hand, you also built it, you are well qualified to make judgments on the kit's accuracy. I see the difference in the windshield height between the model and 1:1 car. The model does look like it was chopped. I'm also puzzled with why this type of error could happen on a kit designed in CAD, and with plenty of reference cars available. The sentiment that this might be due to this kit sharing parts with the open top model might actually hold water. It is what it is, and I'm sure many people will buy the kit, regardless of whether it is more or less accurate. On the positive note, I have to say that the molded plastic wire wheels in this kit look amazingly good! The only other kit that has such well-molded wire wheels is Tamiya's Jaguar Mk.II Saloon. EDIT: It would be nice if someone from Revell DE was reading this thread. it would also be nice if kit manufacturers would allow knowledgeable modelers to examine a (likely 3D printed) prototype model to point out any flaws the designers missed, before cutting steel molds. But again, if the chopped windshield is there due to being shared with the open top model, the point is moot.

On a plastic spoon. There are several color shifting fingernail polishes out there. Those are lacquers, and might give better effect that Testor's stuff. I used PPG automotive Chameleon paints on some models - that looked quite good. But the colro shifting paint in general looks a bit weird IMO.

OK, Here is how I apply CA and accelerator in small amounts and in very controlled way. Click on the arrow in the upper rigth to go right to my post (not to the start of the thread). And it is "sewing", not"sawing" needles - silly typo!

True, but I think that in the end, this thread really is about the typical 1:24 vs. 1:25 discussion. The clue is "correct scale". "Correct" according to whom, and why?

I see what you did there! This can only happen in the paradise by the . . .

For which specific glue? There are dozen different adhesives out there, requiring different types of dispensers.

Could it have made the paint too thin (more like a wash than regular paint)? Testors thinner is likely mineral (white) spirits (aka. standard paint thinner). It evaporates much slower than lacquer thinner you are used to. Maybe the slower evaporation rate causes the paint to pull off the raised details?

Pretty much all the Japanese kit manufacturers use 1:24 scale. To me the scale is irrelevant. If I like something, I'll build it, regardless of scale. With automotive/bike subjects I have built kits from 1:220 to 1:6 scale.

Thanks Curt! I'm still planning on getting a set of the current ones - I just have to dig out the kit to see what size I need. If you do make sure to use stainless steel strings (if they exist), or stainless steel wire. You don't want to have your model spokes to rust after few years. Rust is a problem, especially in humid climates.

All good info - thanks Greg! And some stranded wires are already tinned, so they don't need to be painted silver.

If everything falls out I think that you didn't remove all the mold release from the casting. It could even be silicone mold release agent. You might have to wash it in something more potent than hot water. CA glue usually sticks like mad to (clean) urethane resin.

The issue following the one you described has more automotive-theme articles. This is the most automotive articles in a single issue I have seen ever! Like others mentioned in the Scale Auto Dead thread, Kalmbach will likely start to include more and more automotive articles. No, it will never be 100% automotive, but it is good to see the change.

Eh, I much prefer a digital caliper. Direct readout is much more convenient, plus the ability to zero it out at any distance, then get direct readout of the offset dimension. I bought my original Harbor Freight one for $20 about 20 years ago and it still works well. The battery needs changing about once a year - I can handle that. But old-school calipers work well too. I still have my original veneer caliper - that one was a bit more difficult to deal with, but that was all that I had at the time.

Rustoleum is not taking over Testors paints - they have both been RPM brands for many years. RPM is the one making decision about what to produce.

I wonder why you want to change? Is there anything wrong with the ones you already own? If they work well, why not splurge or some new model kit or some other tools for your workshop you don't already own? I have been using Badger 200 for decades. Few years back ao got a 150 for really good price (sale at Michaels), but I have yet to try it. Since I pretty much use my airbrush as a miniature spray gun, dual action is not too important for me. If I started to do weathering, then I'm sure I would reach for that 150.

I think those are printed on Alps printer.I If that is the case, Alps used a waxy ink (sort of similar to wax crayons). It will rub off the decal paper fairly easily, so it should be clear coated. I'm surprised that Keith does not include any sort of instructions or hints with the decals. When I sell my Alps-printed decals I include a set of instructions on how to deal with them.

T, If you're on a tight budget post your request for the wheels in the Wanted section. Maybe someone has some spare Model A wheels they don't need. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/forum/24-wanted/

Thanks for the explanation Curt. And as other's hinted: great job on the packaging art (and the name)!

Whoa! Check out those rutabagas! Nice, ahem, model!

Thanks for the explanation Paul.