peteski

Hobby Lobby and Michaels are not warehouse-type stores. They are regular retail stores. Hobby Lobby inside. Michaels inside:

Cool stuff - thanks!

ONe would think, but that is not true representation of the kit market. Sure, you will find a dozen (or maybe even a hundred) rabid collectors out there who will pay $1000 for a rare old kit, but those kits are usually of very limited appeal. If some company would re-release them, they would have to sell thousands or tens of thousand kits to make the venture profitable. And you will likely not find 10,000 rabid collectors out there. And since those kits are of limited appeal (for example, I'm not interested in one), even if they sold them for $30 (or whatever the going price for new kits is nowadays), they would probably not be able to sell 10,000 of them.

Sherline works fine for me, has oodles of accessories, and is made and fully supported in USA. I'm also curious about what Taig owners will say.

This molding method is common for Gundam "robot" models. Japanese can do some amazing things.

I'm sometimes ok with curbside models, but I will definitely keep this info for reference. Thanks Matthias!

Thanks for the info e30lover. I might look for the Hasegawa kit.

Looks great! Until I saw this thread I didn't even know that this model even existed. I suppose it is an older kit? Hard to find? Expensive? I know some Enthusiast kits fetch pretty high prices.

Looks good Mike! I love all the chrome on it. Were those seats called "banana seat"? The brakes look interesting. Were those similar to automotive, or vintage motorcycle drum brakes?

I use the BSI brand accelerator and mine is at least 10 years old - works as well is it did on day one. I prefer that brand because unlike Zip Kicker is not acetone-based, so it does not attack styrene and most paints. You mentioned "sometimes"? Are you sure the parts you are gluing are really clean? Also, the accelerator works the fastest on the thin CA, and slower the thicker the CA is. With extra thick or gel type (slower setting stuff) I have to actually mix the accelerator in to get the CA to fully cure (and it takes some time). But the water-thin CA sets in seconds afteradding just a tiny bit of accelerator.

Yes, they've gone plaid!

Now that one I know very well. Nice choice! I always found them ugly, but seeing it brings back some memories.

Here is my collection of various nozzles. And since this subject comes up from time to time., Here are couple of related threads.

And he will be relisting them for a year or two (or longer)., EBay fee structure allows this for free. I have been watching several outrageously-priced model and non-model related listing for extended period of time, and no bites. But seller is patiently looking for a "collector" with lots of money. I have also seen one such listing sell after about 2 years.

It is easy to delete photos from quoted post, and that is exactly what I do. But if some quoted photo is important to my reply, I leave that photo in the quoted text, double click on it, then resize it to a thumbnail size (between 150 to about 300 pixels across). That way the photo remains visible but in a much smaller size. Makes sense?

The wheels came out really nice!

Didn't we discuss this model a month or two ago? Deja-vou all over again.

I haven't done yet, but I was thinking that Alclad II Polished Brass over gloss black (or maybe other color) will give the polished brass finish. But it will likely be fragile like Alclad II Chrome. Or have them "chromed" (vacuum metalized) then spray them with clear yellow paint.

I don't think that anybody can disagree with that. That's why we steered you towards that foil.

Using spray adhesive doesn't make sense to me. Spray adhesives that I have, when sprayed on, produce a rubbery adhesive layer. Any paint sprayed over that will then have to flex and stretch if you touch the roof area. The paint might start cracking. Plus, as it has been said earlier, in 1:25 scale, properly scaled vinyl texture would be almost invisible to the eye. Just semigloss or satin paint should make a convincing vinyl roof. If more texture is needed, spray it from the distance to produce that fine orange-peel effect. No rubbery spray adhesive needed.

Because the remaining metallic particles shine like little mirrors twirling and flashing the reflected light, so you can easily see them. I suspect that the same trace amounts of non-metallic paints are left behind after each flush, but they are not as readily visible.

Interesting responses guys (including the 3-Stooges reference). Thanks!

While Chrome foil might be thicker (I have no way to measure such small thickness), it is not the reason for that behavior. Ultra Bright foil is very stiff aluminum foil. The stiffness (springiness) causes it to behave the way it does. Standard Chrome foil us made from some very soft (limp) and pliable alloy. The closest comparison I can make is to the behavior of kitchen aluminum foil vs. lead foil from wine bottle seals. If you ever handled both, you know what I mean. Once you get used to using the Chrome foil you will learn to slowly work it to be able to stretch or compress it quite a bit, to perfectly cover the model's trim.

Thanks Steffen. Simple, and very realistic. Clever!

Beautiful! It looks like it is made from metal! What is your technique for making weld seams?