peteski

They are called "foamers" (at least the fanatical ones).

Yes, I read that article too. Yes, with enough money, anything is possible (and he also has few professionals helping him with layout construction). But with the size of that layout, and amount of detail on it, it would be hard for a single person to accomplish all that. However, Rod also happens to be a good modeler himself. There are/were also other celebrity model railroaders. Walt Disney for one, had his own garden railroad.

Yes, it is a great deterrent to to drivers who pay attention, but for distracted drivers, or speeders coming from the opposite side (like the ones mentioned in the post before yours), the appearance of your car would have not made any difference. They would have still made those knucklehead moves.

My club used to regularly sent the photos from our annual model contest to Model Cars for years, even after the magazine went into what seemed like hibernation, but we finally gave up, and stopped sending our photos in few years back. Scale Auto Contest Cars Annual is always more than happy to publish our photos (although last few years we had a problem with them giving proper credit to the photographer - me). But the photos were published. Hey Gregg, if you look through your archives, you might find lots of old unpublished model contest photos - you might consider publishing a "Retro Contest issue" with never before seen photos of some cool models.

Thank you Daniel. I really feel bad for this OT diversion, but it does have (tiny) drilled and wired distributor. I will post lots more photos in the Under Glass section one of these days.

That's right! Back then the plastic bottles' bottom was dome-shaped, and it was glued into a plastic cup base. Come to think of it, I still have one of those (1 liter) bottles hanging around, but it is now holding Ferric Chloride (copper enchant). Yes, it is clearly labeled with what is inside. But I think it is a green bottle (could be from 7UP).

It worked for me. Shows items for sale by member3664890. Maybe try https://www.ebay.com/sch/member3664890/m.html Link to the actual store https://www.ebay.com/str/Missing-Link-Resin-cast-model-cars

The entire world is getting weirder and weirder (and yes I know that every generation says that), but I really think this time things are different (weirder in much greater degree than it was happening in the past).

IIRC, it was also produced in N scale (1:160).

You too? I work nights and have the same problems you do (barking dogs, etc.). Few years ago I solved most of those problem (no, I didn't move the backwoods of Maine) by getting one of these little gadgets: https://www.soundofsleep.com/lectrofan/ . It is amazing how well that fairly small device masks ambient sounds (and it can be turned up quite loud). I use the fan sounds - it sounds just like my window air conditioner which acts as my "pacifier" during summer time.

Make sure that the stripping solution is not cold. Low temperature makes it less potent. Warming it to about 100 deg. F would increase its stripping power (this goes for all striping liquid chemicals). Of course, this doesn't mean to use it very hot. Just lukewarm should work.

Thanks guys! I built the Corvette years ago, before digital cameras, so I didn't take any in-progress photos. Still have the model, so I'll eventually also post photos in Under Glass. Yes, these are superb li'l gems of a kit. Those Monogram kits were well made injection-molded parts, with decent amount of details, (including photoetched parts), and the price was quite affordable. But only 2 were ever made. Like you said, too bad that 1:43 scale is mostly for collectors (finished models) and super expensive resin kits. Sorry for the off-topic diversion.

Thanks! I'm quite happy with the way it turned out. I did bunch of scratchbuilding to add more details to that already nice kit. That was last automotive model I built (few years back). I have bunch of photos of it (in progress, and finished). Someday I'll post it in the Under Glass section.

IPA fumes are very mild compared to other chemicals. After all, it is used as rubbing alcohol, spread all over your body (without wearing a respirator). IPA is relatively safe - just don't drink it! But rubbing alcohol is usually 70% strength. For paint stripping you need at least 91% (I use 99% purchased in gallon containers at a hardware store).

LOL. Sounds better than Stasia.

Few years ago I bought the sedan body at the NNL East from the gentleman that wrote and sells the plastic kits price guide. Bill "something" (Coulter? don't remember). He might have more available.

A face only its designer could love.

What others said: The T-Rex looks awesome Joe! The struggle is real.

The stenciled logos look great! Bruce, I hope you don't mind me saying this, but if I was going the extra mile to stencil the logos, I would have first dulled down the sidewalls. They just look too shiny to me. I've had a success using scouring powder and a toothbrush. Mix the powder with some water to make a paste, then rub it over the sidewalls with the toothbrush. It takes some time, but the vinyl tires look more thke the 1:1 tires.

I actually joined this forum so I could PM him to ask a question (after I found his Bandai Showman's Engine thread in a Google search). He was a super nice guy, and a very talented modeler. I too miss him a lot!

Yes, a gloss clear coat (of any type) over flat paint will change the sheen to be more glossy. That is what modelers do to prepare flat finish for waterslide decals (which are best applied to glossy surface). But I was under the impression that you wanted to retain the flat finish on that part.

This is a Monogram Ultimates 1:43 scale 2879 Cobra. I drilled out the model's distributor using a PC Board drill bit (those are very sharp Tungsten Carbide bits with 1/8" shanks) held in a pin vise. Those bits are very fragile (but I have large supply at hand). This type of very small and precise work I do under magnification. I use a stereo-microscope (aka. a dissecting microscope). 1:43 scale distributor is quite small.

I don't need anything large. I was just adding some information to what Bill posted about Photon in his post above mine.

Alps MD printer is the only consumer printer I know that can print Metallic Gold and Gold foil. Here is a list of decal makers who use that printer: https://robdebie.home.xs4all.nl/models/decals.htm#custom

Yes, Anycubic Photon is very popular printer on a model railroad forum I frequent. Several members own them, and they can produce some really high quality items (and this is in N scale, or 1:160). But hat printer can only produce fairly small items (perfect for small scale modeling).