peteski

Tru-Color paints are often used by model railroaders (they started out as model RR paints, later expanding their line to automotive colors). That paint is similar to model RR paint which was sold couple decades ago called Accu-paint. I've been told that it was not paint per se, but a type of ink. It is similar to lacquer, and it goes on very thin so it doesn't hide any details. While acetone is used as one of the ingredients, the thinner also has other chemicals whihc slow its evaporation rate. Best advice is to use the same brand thinner for thinning the paint, and acetone for cleanup.

My dehydrator is much simpler. No fans, no thermostats. Just a 40W heating element on the bottom, and air slots on the top and bottom with adjustable shutters. It moves air by natural convection (warm air raises). The air circulation is basically imperceivable, but it does occur. The temperature can be somewhat controlled by adjusting the shutters. I keep it around 110 deg. F. I suspect that even the dehydrators with fans to force air circulation move very little air.

Alsa chrome might work for you, especially on larger parts. Here is a good place to start (the info is hidden in a hubcap thread).

Nice! I like it!

So she knows she is a D-bag! Nice!

You're right Joe - Scalecoat II in a spray can sounds like a best option.

There are multiple model railroad paint manufacturers that sell UP yellow (and UP gray) paints. Scalecoat and Tru-Color paints are couple of most well known ones. If you have a local hobby shop which carries model RR supplies, they might have them in stock. Scalecoat (actually Scalecoat II) is plastic safe enamel which dries to glossy finish. Tru-Color is also plastic safe, but it dries to sami-gloss finish. It is actually a type of ink, but it can be considered a lacquer.

Super Glue is not epoxy resin - it is Cyanoacrylate or CA (type of acrylic resin). But you are correct that CA glue has a limited shelf life. Keeping it cool and in a dry environment will prolong its life, but it will eventually start polymerizing (thickening) and nothing can be done to revive it. Just like epoxy, it sets by chemical reaction, not eveporatign solvent. The best recommendation is that if someone doesn't use much of it, don't buy more than you can use in lets say a year. Instead of getting 4 oz. get a 1/2 oz. bottle. Yes, it is more expensive when bough in smaller quantities, but if you buy the larger bottle, you'll end up sending money, then throwing away lots of it anyway.

Funny, there is a lengthy thread on various paint strippers, yet it seems that about once a month we start a new thread on this old subject. In my 40+ years of model building experience I can tell you that one thing is for sure: there is no single perfect (and safe) stripper for stripping paint from Polystyrene and/or resin model kits. Different brands and types of paints are affected differently by various stripping solution. By the other token, some supposedly safe stripping solution can and will attack plastic or resin. Paint stripping is not an exact science - it is more like alchemy. So if you want a universal paint stripping solution for all paints, and safe for all plastics and resin, you better find another hobby.

I've been active on eBay since 1999. I know for a fact that it makes not difference in bidding whether you lurk or watch the item you're bidding on. But I'm a sniper, and that works well for me. You tried sniping last time, but someone else put in a higher amount bid earlier, so they (well, eBay's automatic bidding, or proxy bidding) automatically outbid you.

I would *NEVER* advice anybody to get acetone anywhere near a polystyrene model body. If you have enough control of that rag to only take the paint off without marring the plastic then you are a better paint stripper than I am.

Ebay originally started as an auction site. But over the years it has become more and more of a commerce site (like amazon) where the listings are fixed price instead of auction type listings. I guess you have been dealing with the fixed price listings. How bidding works is explained in https://www.ebay.com/help/buying/bidding/bidding?id=4003 , then the automatic (proxy) bidding is explained in the Automatic Bidding section. From what your auction bids list shows, it appears that it is what took place. and why you and the other bidder t***t(1139) lost. Bidder c***c(65) placed his bid of unknown amount, over an hour earlier than you. It must have been higher than your or the other bidder's bids. EBay then was bidding for him, keeping the automatic bids just high enough over the other bids to win the auction. It really is not too complicated.

I thought that Dot 3 (the old one) is glycol-based and works as paint stripper. Isn't Dot 4 silicone-based, and as such will not strip anything?

Nothing screwy about it - standard eBay auction listing. You tried to snipe, but c**c(65) bid more than you did (earlier in the auction), so you didn't get it. Proxy bidding - that is the way eBay works.

You are making a good progress. And yes, those taillights are another reason I prefer the Tamiya kit (but it is a curbside, so it would need an engine transplant from the Revell kit). Spraying the shiny "chrome" wheels with some Dullcote would have produced nice satin aluminum finish.

That is it. These come in several slightly different sizes (but all are pretty much good for model chain). I was introduced to Fusee chains by our own Harry P.

Yes their enamel will dry but remain soft (you can easily dent it just by pressing your fingernail into the finish). But they will provide hardener for it if you request it. Also, the harder will eventually harden, even is a sealed bottle.

LOL! When you add water, you are diluting the concentration of chemicals in it. No wonder it won't work. Just like you having 120 proof vodka which gets you drunk after 10 shots, diluting it with water (making it 70 proof) and wondering why you don't get drunk after 10 shots of the diluted stuff.

I did figure out that it looked just like Ford Falcon, but some details were different - this explains why.

What happened here? No solution given? Will this one be re-run (due to a full mailbox)?

Sounds like things are under control Richard.

When I measured several rims I discovered that the stated dimension is is about 1.5" smaller than the outside diameter of the rim. It is probably the inside diameter of the tire's bead. So a 16" wheel is actually 17.5" diameter.

How did I forget this one earlier?

Hmm, if you are electrician and electronics buff then you are well aware that a fuse is there for a reason. If it blew, then something is not right with the circuit it is protecting. Bypassing it doesn't seem like a smart idea to me.

Exactly! And another problem is that there is nobody out there (with the abilities, know-how, and financial backing) to take over and continue those business - once they are gone, they are gone forever.