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Everything posted by peteski
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Model car related abbreviation?
peteski replied to 426 pack's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
LHS - Local Hobby Shop (as in local "brick and mortar" shop, not some online mail-order shop) -
If I feel nostalgic (like that old price tag on old kit's shrink wrap). I flip the box upside down and using a hobby knife I cut the wrapping using the gap between the cover and the bottom of the box to guide the knife. I do this on 3 sides. At that point the box can be opened but the wrap stays intact on the cover. When closing i fold the bottom part of the wrap into the cover anc close up the box. That way it still looks shrink-wrapped but it can be opened.
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Old Hobby Shop Photos
peteski replied to Daddyfink's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Yeah, I mentioned Woolworth in my earlier post. There was a very large (multi-story) one on Washington St. in Boston, MA in the '70s. Long gone now. They had a large selection of models and supplies. -
No, unless CA glue was used to assemble that kit. That debonder will specifically soften CA glue. If the kit was assembled using liquid cement for styrene (which melts and welds parts together), that debonder will not help.
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My town also has these (in black on black). It is a very interesting concept.
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I notice this happening often, in many towns. It would make perfect sense to coordinate the utility works on the same street, then repave it once after the work is complete. You figure with everything and everybody connected on the internet, this would be easy to do. But no, I suppose the excuse is that each company's work schedule depends on the crew availability and their budget. It sucks, but it will probably keep on happening. Or, similar situation is that they recently repaved a stretch of highway where the pavement was still in great shape. Seems like such a waste of money where other parts of the same highway, or even many local roads are in very poor condition, full of ruts and potholes. Again, the bureaucracy is likely the reason for this.
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That's what I mean. Plastic model kits sold in Japanese hobby shops were never sealed (even with tape). If theft of parts was problematic enough, they would have start sealing them.
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You think that''s quick? Wait until the drone deliveries start! But seriously, I do see USPS delivery vehicles out on both weekend days delivering packages. They probably have some special deal with Amazon. But back in the day (decades ago), you could mail something using "special delivery" method and it would be delivered in Sundays too. At least that is how I remember it.
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It has amazing looks, but I'm sure this thing would be extremely difficult to get into and probably uncomfortable to drive. But I guess the same thing can be said about women's stiletto heels. It is all about appearances.
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Like others, since I'm planning on building my kits I open the boxes as soon as I get the kit home. For the above-mentioned reasons. Wouldn't it be nice is the manufacturers would not seal boxes (like it is still done in Japan)? I know, there are reasons for sealing them. So does this mean that Japanese modelers are more honest, careful, and trustworthy than U.S. modelers?
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This would have made a perfect subject for the Auto Quiz (unless it was already used in the past).
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NICE! Her top's color is pretty good match to Porsche mint green. Coincidence? Maybe. . .
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Old Hobby Shop Photos
peteski replied to Daddyfink's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
And that was at "Happy Hobby"? Wow! Talking about misnamed business. . . -
The Little Drag - A Monogram "Never Was"
peteski replied to TooOld's topic in WIP: Drag Racing Models
Well then, you did a good job matching the blue on the decals to the blue paint. That is tough to do. At least in the photos, it looks great. Only now that that you've mentioned it, I can see the decal outlines, but only very faint. Another question: Corel Draw is pretty powerful and versatile (I have used it since version 3, and currently on version 10 and 12, which have way more features than I'll even need), why did you stray into Paint.net and Inkscape? Just to to try them out and learn how to use them? -
Old Hobby Shop Photos
peteski replied to Daddyfink's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
I did - not sure what my brain was doing at that time. I meant sunset. If those ladies were around 18 years-old in the early '60s, the are in their late 70s today. -
I still have access to it. Clear your browser's caches, cookies, etc., spin a rubber chicken over your head, and do whatever else is needed to appease the Internet Gods!
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The Little Drag - A Monogram "Never Was"
peteski replied to TooOld's topic in WIP: Drag Racing Models
Did you use Corel Draw for the decal artwork? What did you print them on? I wonder why was this thread moved from "Under Glass" section to "Drag Racing Models"? Isn't "Under Glass" section for showcasing completed models? Puzzling . . . -
Nyuk, nyuk, nyuk!
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Drills For Plastic (making holes!)
peteski replied to Miatatom's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Best drill bits for me are the Tungsten Carbide (TC) bits with 1/8" shafts used in the printed circuit board (PCB) industries. They have split point cutting edge (even the smallest sizes) and they are super sharp, so they cut through stuff like through butter. TC is a very hard material, so they stay sharp pretty much forever (for what we used them in modeling). But because the TC is so hard, it is very brittle. You have to either have very light touch when using them in hand-held power tools, or use a drill press. Also, because the all have 1/8" shank, chucking them is problem-free. These bits are available from several sources, including Micro-Mark and eBay. Shop around for best prices. -
Old Hobby Shop Photos
peteski replied to Daddyfink's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Not only that (one can become a grandma in their 30s), bu they are now approaching the dawn sunset of their life. -
The Little Drag - A Monogram "Never Was"
peteski replied to TooOld's topic in WIP: Drag Racing Models
Both the model and the presentation are fantastic! -
ElCamaro? For some reason it looks Photoshopped to me.
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Like already mentioned, if the model is waxed before applying BMF, that can affect its adhesion. Especially if it is a silicone-based wax. BMF should be applied ether to clean bare (polished) plastic surface, or to glossy painted surface. I have some BMF that is around 20+ years old and the adhesive still works (well, it did when I used it couple of years ago). I should add that my experience is almost exclusively with the "Original Chrome" foil. Well, I did also use a small piece of the gold foil for foiling a Chevy bow tie emblem. That worked ok. I did try the BMF bright chrome foil and I found it unusable (similar to the thankfully gone Detail Master foil). It was too stiff and not stretchy enough to conform to complex curves. I never tried using the black foil either. Here are few of my 1:32 scale Gunze Sangyo models I built in the early '90s. These were my first attempts of using BMF (with the Blue Caddy was my first BMF job). And that light blue '57 Chevy photo you see on the BMF envelopes is also from this series of kits (and build and photographed by me). I was honored when El (BMF's original proprietor) asked if he could use my model for advertising.