peteski

How about Replicas & Miniatures Company of Maryland? Norm sells couple of different types of motorcycle wheels with etched spokes, resin rims and tires.

Well, you can't always depend on that. But it wasn't even needed: The heritage of the car in question was obvious.

Media Mail is the "slow boat" mail - the cheapest and slowest. Probably send via a yak! You get what you paid for.

Yeah! I noticed in many recent programs that background music has become foreground music, and you can barely hear what is being discussed. It is very silly and I don't know who and why they decided to start doing it. Must be them new Millennial sound engineers. They are so used to multitasking that their brains must somehow find a way to separate the music from the speech. Or maybe simply nobody is simply watching the program to verify that everything is ok.

Yes there is - you can upload photos to your threads here. Admins generously lifted the upload limits so all your photos for the posts in this forum can also be hosted here. This means that the photos will be visible for as long as this forum is online. No more broken photo links!

Here are the various shipping options explained (including Media Mail). https://www.usps.com/ship/mail-shipping-services.htm There is a link for "show detail" about each. Click on "show detail" in the Media Mail section for . . . more details and restrictions.

As soon as I saw it I knew it was one from the VW family. It does have very strong lines of the Golf/Rabbit family, but the grille-less nose, fender-fuel-door, and the rear quarters louvers say "rear engine".

I have both of those pictured kits. And the 190 too. I bought them because I like the unique subject matter. The hood is attached to the body by a thin layer of plastic - it is designed to be easily separated. The wheels are undersize (IIRC, they are more like 12 or 13" wheels). Then the tires make up for it, so they have tall sidewalls. I have been contemplating having new (correctly sized) wheels 3-D printed. I would also like to 3-D print the louvers in the side windows behind the B-pillar.

The ones I use are Sakura Micron markers. https://sakuraofamerica.com/pen-archival# Not sure if those are used for Gundam stuff.

I usually get mine at https://www.sciplus.com/p/CLEAR-ZIPSEAL-BAG-8-X-10-PKG-100_41604

I think most people experiencing the cans oozing just throw them away. It might be a good idea for all the people who had this happen to them (in this thread) to open up a case with RPM (Rustoleum) to maybe open their eyes to the fact that there is a problem. With the advent of the internet, it is easy to notify the company about possible problem.

Thanks! In the 1:6 Harley Fat Boy still unassembled?

So we were all partially correct. Rapidograph is a type of a technical pen. Some are filled with India ink. I sometimes use very fine type of marker for accenting panel or door lines, or for some precision detail-painting.

My post stated "I have build models from 1:6 Tamiya Harley Fat Boy bike to 1:160 Photoetched brass vehicle kits from Micron-Art (and pretty much most of the scales in between)." That includes 1:43.

Looking at the overall body, the gas filler cap and the headlight bezels I know what make it is, but I'm too lazy to find the specifics. I guess I'll find out how close I was on Friday.

That is because it is not a glue. Its website is https://notaglue.com .

The ingredients in ELO are related to what DOT 3 brake fluid contains. If oven cleaner (the lye-based one) doesn't strip certain paint then Castrol Super Clean (or the generic versions) most likely wont either, since those are also lye-based.

Instead of paint you might want to chemically darken the brass wire. It will look good (weathered) and more durable than paint. I don't know where to find chemical blackener in your country but in USA we have several sources. Model Railroad shops sell A-West Blacken-it solution and also Micro-engineering rail weathering solution. Both will give aged look to brass. There are also various weathering/blackening solutions available from Jax Chemicals. That is what I use.

I have build models from 1:6 Tamiya Harley Fat Boy bike to 1:160 Photoetched brass vehicle kits from Micron-Art (and pretty much most of the scales in between).

I doubt it. It is most likely a mechanical problem. I suspect that the bottom of the an is not crimped very well and develops leaks under constant pressure.

If you use a paint marker on a clear plastic and you mess up, you will notice you messed up right away (won't you?). If the paint is not fully hardened then alcohol will remove it almost as easily as if it was Sharpie ink. I'm not a big fan of Sharpies. The ink can be rubbed off easily and it also runs/bleeds easily when exposed to solvent from many paints. it also has a glossy finish which is not really good for simulating rubber gaskets or trim (which is usually satin or flat).

I should also mention an alternative to the standard black Sharpies (which are really dark purple) and run when exposed to many paint solvents. There is also a "red label" Sharpie industrial marker. It seems to be more solvent resistant. The stated color is black but it is a really dark blue. You guys might want to give it a try. I just used it the other day to blacken some metal parts. http://www.sharpie.com/markers/pro/industrial/SHIndustrial.html .

I took it as a marker used for annotating X-Ray photo films.

You have a point there. But I hope that you smoothed out that seem on the bottom of the housing.

Calculator is nice, but we are talking elementary school math here. This is the time where we get to use those basic math skills we learned in school but always thought we would never need them in real life. We should be exercising our gray matter more.