peteski

You think that it was difficult to paint? You should try to paint (and decal) one of these models. The coin is about 18mm in diameter. But seriously, you did a wonderful job on that Mercedes! Congratulations! About 30 years ago built the 4-passenger version of that Mercedes (which was produced by Pocher before your version of model). At that time I built it mostly stock, so it is nearly not as good as yours. It also took me about a year to complete.

Funny, several years ago I bough (from HLJ) the set identical to the bp-770 packaged IIRC in "Modeler's" brand package. I have to dig out that set to verify. One thing I don't care for is that the engraving is done on the inside of the lens. While that is how real lenses are, on models this makes it makes more difficult to glue them in while trying to preserve the delicate engraving.

I was told that no mold release agent is used when injection-molding styrene parts. Go figure. If Art is familiar with injection-molding styrene process I hope he chimes in.

IIRC, this engine kit was displayed at the last NNL East (along with the entire visible car frame model). It was displayed on a table along the wall with windows. That was a pretty cool looking model!

Strange that it was cloudy when you decanted it. But if it was humid at that time, the moisture could have also mixed with the decanted liquid (as it really cool down when being decanted).

This is the mistake I warned about in my earlier post (just in reverse). DM ignition wire specs show the overall diameter (of the insulation, not the wire). The wire inside is much thinner than 30 AWG. Remember that in electrical terms the wire gauge is just the wire diameter (not the outside diameter of the insulation) where as in modeling terms nobody cares about the diameter of the wire or its gauge but the overall diameter of the insulation.

As usual, superb job and documentation. However, I'm wondering if those guards aren't a bit out of scale (too thick). They look like they are about scale 2" in diameter.Wouldn't they be closer in thickness to those handrails you made from brass rod?

Um, hasn't that already happen to the large extent? How many truly independent car makers can you name in today's word? There is some serious platform (or even entire vehicle) sharing going on, even between what seems to be rival manufacturers. Pontiac Vibe? No, Toyota Matrix. Ford Probe? No, Mazda! I can go on and on. Platform sharing (at least within the older car companies) and badge-engineering has been going on for decades.

But remember that the 30AWG is the measurement of the wire itself, not of the insulation. The insulation makes the overall diameter much thicker. So IIRC, 30AWG is 0.010" in diameter, but with insulation it is more like 0.016" diameter. Having said that, I use 30 AWG wire-wrapping wire for my electronic projects and I also sell it to my model club members for model detailing. Here is a model where that wire was used as spark plug wire.

Eh, they copied the original true "box" concept of the SCION xB (Toyota bB). My white 2006 xB looks more like a fridge or a toaster than the Cube. To me the Cube designers "jumped the shark" - it to me looks like something out of a Roger Rabbit movie - a cartoon caricature of a car.

Very well done model! And let's not forget that this truck is in 1:35 scale, so all the details are much finer than the standard 1:24 scale.

Large resources? I have to remember you. I always follow up on my communications and thank for favors. I am more than happy to reimburse the person helping me postage and any other costs they incurred in the process. I also have mixed experience with people whom I helped. Some are grateful, few never send thanks. I do know how you feel. But so far, this hasn't stopped me from helping whenever I can. Maybe that makes me a sucker. As far as the latest experience goes, maybe the person you were helping died or lost their Internet connection> Just sayin' ...

I'm old-fashion - I come here to read and to leave posts, not for live chatting. I like the threaded nature of online forums. Or maybe I'm just not very chatty.

No new methods I can think of, but there are plenty of older methods which work fine. Bleach is not on the top of my list, BTW. Any lye (sodium hydroxide) based solution works the best: "Purple stuff" or the original Easy Off oven cleaner (not the fume-free stuff). What is good about those chemicals is that they also strip the clear lacquer under the "chrome" (which is actually thin aluminum coating). If you go to the Tips, Tricks and Tutorial section, there is a lengthy sticky thread on how to remove "chrome". Lots of ideas there.

And few more model RR scales: 1:64 S-scale 1:120 TT-Scale 1:150/1:160 N-Scale (British sometimes use 1:148) 1:220 Z-Scale Those are used for model railroads, but of course they also include lots of vehicles and accessories.

Picture tells a 1000 words, but here are two words: natural aluminum.

Here is a good one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/291025513310 That seller has been re-listing this same item (at the same price) for over a year (probably more like 2 years now). No bites yet. I once contacted them and asked why is their model worth so much more than the dozens of the same model on eBay which usually sell for between $10-$30 they didn't reply. Obviously they are looking for a sucker who doesn't know better and who will dish out $130 for a small diecast model. There is plenty of similar examples of this on eBay. Sellers looking for suckers.

Many automotive paints are "hot" enough to partially fuse with the plastic and nothing will completely remove them. Speaking of hot, warm stripping solution (whatever you are using) will be more aggressive than room temperature (or even cold) solution. I try to strip with the solution at about 90 deg. F (I have a laboratory hotplate and a contact-less IR thermometer. As others said, there is no good universal (plastic-compatible) stripping solution which will strip all types of paint. There are 2 more which you haven't tried. Floquil ELO (Easy Lift Off) which I think is not marketed by Testors, and Scalecoat Wash Away Paint Remover.

I have used dozens of methods (whatever works the best for each part). I often use wire insulation stripped from a wire as small tubing to stick small round parts in it (then tape the tubing to a larger piece of wood to hold them. I have also drilled holes into parts and super-glue brass rod to hold them. Here is an example of what I used for one of my builds.

Another vote here for painting over "chrome". Liquid mask will most likely not hold back the lye solution. Think about it , model "chrome" (actually vacuum-deposited aluminum) consists of a clear lacquer or enamel base-coat to make the part mirror smooth, then a few-atom-thick layer of aluminum, then a final clear lacquer/enamel coat to protect the fragile layer of aluminum. So when you paint it, you are actually painting the top layer of clear. The paint will stick to it just fine. Yes, it is more difficult to cover due to the reflective nature of the finish, but the paint will stick just fine. You can prime it first to cover up the shiny finish, then put on the final layer of color. Or use flat paints which cover much better than glossy paints.

I am also big fan of BSI CA glue and accelerator. I hava lso used about half a dozen of other brand CAs and accelerators. In my experience using accelerator does affect the properties of the cured CA glue. I don't think it affects the actual bond between the glued surface and the adhesive but it makes the adhesive more brittle. The viscosity of the CA also makes a difference in the amount of brittleness. The thinner the accelerated CA is, the more brittle it will get when fully cured. But none of this has ever caused any of my models to come unglued. So, I wouldn't worry about it.

For me the Tamiya tape is the absolutely best tape I have ever worked with. Maybe you didn't burnish it well enough? As far as paint goes, I agree that the thinner the paint layer is, the better the model will look.

Walmart and Target also carry good selection of nail polishes.

I didn't expect you to search first - I was just making a statement. This is the thread I was thinking of.

Well, at least the door handle is pitted. As far as rusty chrome goes, if it was done right, it should not be rusty, even on an old rusty car. Same goes for aluminum trim (for obvious reasons). Dull, maybe - rusty? No. I don't quite get this new fad. But I guess things go in cycles. People are tired of seeing all those prefectly restored old cars - they want to stand out in the crowd. This is one way of accomplishing that.