peteski

I would stay away from any citrus-based (probably D-Limonen) styrene cements. Some if you remember the non-toxic blue tube Testors glue which smelled like oranges but didn't work well at all. Then later on there seem to be a run of citrus based liquid cements. I used that once, and never again. It worked well, but it never fully evaporated. I used it to glue fuel tank halves together on a Peterbilt kit. I sanded and polished the seam and it looked smooth. I then sent it to be "chrome" plated. Tank looked fine, but then within few months, the seam became more and more visible (like it was shrinking. I could also smell very faint orange smell. Stay away from any citrus-based adhesives!

Milo, I'm curious about what made you think you needed a setting solution for BMF? Bare Metal Foil is adhesive-backed metal foil, Not a water slide decal solution. It is like self-adhesive stickers. No solution should be needed or used.

I clicked on this "click-bait" thread and I see that there is some very useful info. But why not have a more descriptive subject line, like "Where is the distributor on a 1941 Lincoln Continental engine?" I'm a huge proponent for descriptive subject lines to make searching the forum easier. IIf you agree, how about editing the initial post and change the subject line. "Where's Waldo" is simply silly. Very cute, but useless.

I have not, but many CA debonders contain acetone or other strong solvents which will craze polystyrene. Just a heads-up.

That is too bad. My condolences to this family.

Hey Steve, your attention to detail is really amazing, and so is the superb job you are doing documenting this build. This thread is a very enjoyable (and enlightening) read. I'm not a truck expert, but I did build few truck kits. Looks like Revell used lots of this kit's parts for their Can-Do wrecker kit I built back in the '90s. At least this kit had much better looking (soft rubber) tires. I hope you don't mind the photo If you are interested I have few more images (scanned from 4X6 photos) on my club's website. http://classicplastic.org/pete-w-pb.html

You are doing a superb job on super-detailing this model! I'm curious about the frame. Did the real car have frame made from C-shaped steel, like the model, or was it closed box shape?

You're welcome.

So you are one of "those" who choose to propagate this "acrylic=water-based" terminology. As for automotive paints, look up their MSDS - many of the automotive paints which are not catalyzed use acrylic resin as the binder.

I apologize. I don't know why I thought it was your video when you specifically mentioned that it was not. I should leave a comment on YouTube for that video asking for the information I asked here.

There are couple of things against you here. 1. Search is only as good as the data it searches, and it seems that the sellers are often clueless as to what to put in the listing's title and description. 2. Even before eBay totally messed up the listing categories (which used to make sense), they started including not only exact search results, but also things that *THEY* think you might be interested in (even if they have nothing to do with what you are searching). They also include all sorts of "sponsored" results, where sellers likely pay extra to include their wares in the search results. Back in the day, eBay was actually very useful. Nowadays? Not so much.

Yes, it is really too bad that hobbyists started using this generic "acrylic" term as an indicator of a paint using mild (often water) solvent.

Very nicely done replica.

Not sure if I like it, or want to turn my head away, but I think it would make a great model. I'm pretty sure I know where it is not from.

Exactly. That was the point of my original post, replying to Bills post where he mentioned that all the power "things" on today's vehicles are not needed. We're all just having fun here.

Blast from the past. We also had Rusty Jones rustproofing system.

Good for her! But that was a passenger car. Try that in a large contemporary SUV like I mentioned. It would likely not be much fun for her.

While I know exactly what you mean, I still see petite women getting out of large pickups or SUVs.

Imagine a non-power-anything Chevy "subdivision" (any of those extra-lage SUVs) being driven by a 4"10' 90 lb. li'l women. LOL, that wouldn't fly today.

A month or two ago overstock.com had a similar deal on amazon for the new Revell VW Beetle. I found out about it here on this forum. I bought 4 of them, and they were shipped in a cardboard box. It was actually cut down box Revell ships these kits in, so 4 of the kits fit perfectly in the box's footprint. No shipping damage. Overstock Hobbies is a dealer outside of amazon, and the kits come directly from them (not from amazon's warehouse).

Very informative video, but you don't show how you "crimp" the "rivets" or "pins" on the hood hinges, so the hinge doesn't fall apart. That to me would be the most important part of the video. You clearly show that you solder one end of the rivets to one part of the hinge, but then the hinge is shown to work, while staying together. the video seems to show that also solder the other side of the hinge, but if you do use solder, how you prevent the other side of the soldered rivet joint from melting, or how you prevent the solder from sticking to the loose piece of the hinge (so it still pivots). Or if you use another method of fastening the rived, what is it?

I have to chuckle at the subject line. Instead, "Tamiya PE saw" would have taken all the mystery out of this click-bait thread. Yes, I I fell for it, but have no opinions since I don't own one. I guess mystery is what makes the world go 'round.

Not familiar with that model, but the spring wire is crimped to the body, so I suspect that when you reinstalled the doors, you didn't put everything the way it was originally. You don't remember how the spring wire and door hinges were original aligned? Maybe you have another similar Corgi model you can take apart and check on the proper door installation?

Hasegawa foil is actually very thin flexible plastic (vinyl?) film. It will stretch slightly when coaxed into depressions (like the ones in the grill we are talking about here), but after short period time, it will relax, and come back out of the depressions. It is best used for simple shapes (like smooth moldings). BMF on the other hand, once it is formed and pushed into the depressions, will stay in them.

Oy! Where is that face-palm emoji? As a non native-English speaker can tell you that puns are very difficult concept to grasp. But after being immersed in English for 40 years, I do get most of them.