peteski

Nice clean build of a vintage car - I like it!

And is more sturdy than plastic rod (because workbench accidents can happen).

Wrong! I'm highly offended by blank memes!

Some political stuff does sneak into the forum. I imagine that some keywords in the following post could trigger some political ads. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/181960-yesanother-usps-rant-why/?do=findComment&comment=2738326

As I suspected . . . oh well. I thing that just showing the country would be vague enough not to cause any security problems. A nifty feature would be to have a flag of the member's country showing on their avatar instead of the meaningless rocketship "rank". Of course that feature likely doesn't exist in the forum software.

How about displaying ads for free members, and no ads for paid membership? That is a popular option for many online services.

Yeah, that stinks! it was interesting and often helpful to see where the member was from. I wonder if this is some privacy thing? It is not like it was someones actual address. I hope admins will bring this bit of information back. Just having a country would be enough.

Nothing new here - these types of scams or phishing have been around for years. As it has been constantly drilled into our heads for a long time: never click on any links in emails (especially ones which are "alerting" you to some serious immediate problem). If you are worried, go to the institution's website manually, then check the status (or call the institution using their phone number you already know). But some people never learn, and get scammed. In my browser, when I hover over what looks like legitimate email address in any email in my Inbox, it shows me the real address (which in phishing emails will be totally unrelated to what shows).

Yes the solvent in paints (what makes them liquid) is a mixture of several chemicals. The additional thinner you add will likely have slightly different composition than the solvent already in the paint. Like Lee stated, that will change the chemical balance of the liquid paint which can cause it to start hardening prematurely. It pretty much happens just to enamel paints (since those have more complex drying/hardening process than lacquers), and not all enamels will be affected. The rule is not to put thinned enamel paint back to the unthinned container. Well, lets include lacquers to be on the safe side.

Wow!

To me this Lark seems to have the same "features" St least to me, it looks a bit too stubby. Like it was compressed from front and back. But it sure is an interesting build to follow. Ken, as far as the back seat goes, couldn't you have made casting of the front seat? Then you could make narrower by slicing some of it off. The seat pattern would match.

Very good! Worth noting is that you are successfully using a very basic, external mix airbrush. No fancy airbrush required. I'm curious why you are using Royal Blue (which is an regular opaque color) rather than transparent blue?

Yo, Casey, this has*NOTHING* to do with socialism. Look up the definition. You are just using buzzwords which seem to be convenient for you at the moment. Even the entire U.S. government itself is nowhere close to being socialist. I could expand on who runs our government, but that would get me banned from the forum. Also, the USPS is not actually run by U.S. government. What you seeing here could be related to badly designed routing algorithms (since everything is done by computers), and of course by the incompetence of the employees (which is rampant in today's world, all around us, regardless of the political association, not just at the post office). Incompetent people are everywhere, all over the world, regardless of which country or political regime they reside in.

Exactly. You don't want to end up with a frosted windshield And, yes it makes sense to do the tinting on the inside surface.

Hmm, I believe that those "as seen on TV" UV-cured adhesives are related to Bondic resin (which stinks as a glue), and not a UV-cured CA glue. So yes, they would be vasts inferior to the J-B Weld or the "Krazy" glue mentioned here.

That's all folks . . .

Oh well, that's an interesting attitude. This is likely a 1-man operation. If he is unaware there is a problem on the website, how can he fix it? Is he supposed to go and browse his website ever day looking for problems? I guess this "not my problem" attitude is widespread nowadays.

But, but, but, I used to get excited about my toaster (and even have a model of it). It was a great li'l car (I owned it for 13 years), and I still miss it.

The problem with pined threads is that one: there are already plenty on the first page of this section, and two: it seems that most members somehow fail to look at them, and start a new thread about the subject already covered in a pinned thread.

You found a source of no-name UV curable CA glue?! I like to know more. That is what we are specifically discussing here.

If he can make and sell wire wheels which are properly designed (ie. the hub protrudes past the outside of the rim), I would be all over them. In his current wire wheels, the hub is actually recessed. To me the spinners are also a bit too thin.

BTW, that is Gomer Pyle, not Homer Pyle. Probably auto-correct error.

J-B Weld also has a similar glue - looks like more companies age getting on the UV-cure adhesives bandwagon. Not that it is a bad thing. I have been using CA and (liquid) accelerator for decades, now it looks like we have "light accelerator" available. This might be just the thing for gluing on clear parts, then setting the glue instantly, without CA fogging issue. And as far as Bondic goes, yes, it stinks as an adhesive.

With modelers using so many brands and types of paints (some made specifically for models, others not), there really aren't any hard set rules which one can follow 100% of the time. Also the vague (or sometimes incorrect) naming conventions used by both the paint manufacturers, and modelers, things are even more confusing. Years ago, when water-based solvent paints became popular, modelers just started calling all paints that aren't orgainc-solvent based (aka stinky) paints "acrylics". While true that water-based paints are acrylic enamels (I never heard of water-based acrylic lacquers), on the other hand, there are also lots of both enamels and lacquers based on acrylic resin binder (which in this case is dissolved in organic [stinky] solvent). All of this causes confusion, so it really makes sense for a modeler to try (on a test surface like old body, plastic spoon, or a plastic soda pop bottle) the combination of paints they are planning on using. Edit: And before someone jumps all over me saying that the test surfaces (like spoons) are not the same plastic that the kit is made of, but still, it is better than not even trying the compatibility of multiple coats of various coatings.

Good job on the detail painting, but to me the finish looks too glossy. IMO, clothing and skin will look much more realistic when the finish is flat. Maybe spray with Dullcote, or some other water-based acrylic clear flat. Leather would look realistic in satin finish.