peteski

Nice find! It would cool if somone modeled some of those unique advertising vehicles

That's my experience too. I have parts of a sheet still left that is over 20 years old, and it still works. The adhesive is still good. And I do work around the wrinkles (as long as the foil is not cracked). Since in most applications (like thin window trim) is very small thin area, even if the wrinkle cannot be smoothed out completely,, it will be pretty much invisible. And yes, in the past there have been some bad batches (most recent during the COVID pandemic), the current production run of the New improved Chrome is really good. I also steer clear from Ultra Bright Chrome. That is just thin aluminum foil (not a special soft pliable alloy used for the Chrome BMF) and it is very stiff. Will not conform to complex model surfaces. The Ultra Bright Chrome was BMF's answer to Detail Master's foil, when they started making that back in the '90s. Detail Master bragged that their foil was much brighter and shinier than BMF, so BMF produced their version. Both Detail Master and BMF versions of the bright foil are pretty much unusable to me. To me the ultimate compliment was when BMF started using my models for advertising.

That is correct. Nowadays this type of decorating of book covers or product packaging on commercial scale is done using hot foil stamping method, while embossing powders are used more in the hobby field. At least that's how I understand things.

Well, simulating carpet is not the intended use for embossing powder. It's original use was for scrapbook craft, but modelers discovered that it makes a great looking carpet in 1:25 scale.

Diecasts often have their plastic "chrome" parts electroplated with real chromium (not the typical fragile vacuum metalized aluminum used for most model car kits). This process results in the same very tough plating that is used on 1:1 scale chromed parts. Basically the part is coated with electrically conductive paint, then copper plated, then chrome plated. Chromium is a very hard and durable metal, resistant to most chemicals. Maybe some very strong acid could eat away at the chrome. If you could sandblast the chrome layer, you could then remove the copper with Ferric Chloride. I wonder if you could just try peeling off the metal, since the base coat that is under the plating is conductive paint (which is probably the weakest link of the bond with plastic.

Dale is not very responsive via email - call him for info.

Sounds like freehand painting the "glass", not parts fitment, was the main issue. I have feeling that if the window masks were included in this kit, the build description would be more positive. Personally, while I have been known to brush-paint some small parts, I never attempt anything like what Conrad did. I mask and airbrush pretty much everything.

Wow, it's been a wile since you worked on this baby! I'm curious why didn't you just foil-cast the emblems/logos instead of yanking them out, leaving holes the body? EDIT: I went back and read some earlier posts, so I know your reasons. When I built mine, I masked the "bertone" logos before painting the body. Then after the body color was applied, I removed the masking and painted the bare plastic logos. That way there was no paint buildup on the lettering. I seem to recall that I then dry-brushed the scripts on the rear panel. Nowadays I would scan the rear panel then trace the scripts in Corel Draw and print black decals to cover the raised lettering.

Yes, the model looks pretty good. As for masking windows, I thought that kit (and many other Tamiya kits) includes masks for the glass to make painting easier.

Ok, I'll bite too. My large scale Hemi. And on the opposite end of the scale spectrum is one of my small engines. 1:43 scale 289 Ford engine in a Cobra. One thing I should have done different would be to reshape the bottom of the distributor (it was molded together with the intake manifold). It doesn't look bad viewed in-person when the car body ins installed, but it does pop put in s closeup shot like this.

I agree with Bill - beautiful model John! As for the convertible top, the windows look flush because the entire top is molded out of clear plastic. You mask the windows and paint the fabric areas. Tamiya convertibles also utilize the same design of using clear plastic for the roof. Clever!

I'm wondering if the different thermal expansion rates of styrene and aluminum will cause any problems. I suspect it would not be a problem with small pieces, but the roof is rather large.

Well, they make other wire wheel and tyre sets where the tyre is printed as a separate item. I wish they did the same for the Jaguar wheels. I send my wheels to be vacuum metalized (I don't spray paint them), and I have not problem using hard resin wheels.

I believe that Finescale metal kits are cast out of pewter, which is a very soft metal which can be carved/trimmed with a knife. White metal (Zamak is one of its trade names) is a zinc and aluminum based alloy, which is much harder than pewter. It is the same metal diecast model companies use for their finished models. Yes, you will needed to use files and rotary tools like Proxxon or Dremel when working on Zamak. And the original Hubley model kits were also made of Zamak.

I like that one too. Yes it is weird, but good. Came out in the '80s and I bought the CD - still have it and you just reminded me to listen to it again. One of not many albums where I like every song.

I also bought couple sets last week. One thing that I noticed in the photos in the eBay listing is that the offset could be more accurate. What I mean is that the Jaguar XK-E wheel hubs stick out of the wheel further than what the 3D printed wheels depict. But maybe it is just the photos. One thing for sure is that the spokes look amazing!

Yup. That's where I bought mine.

Alclad II steel or stainless steel look pretty good as cast iron color to me. I used one of those colors (don't remember which) on this bike's rotor.

That is some impressive modeling! I'm curious about that Volvo model. Who makes that kit? There aren't many models of Volvos available as kits.

My 2005 Scion xB (aka. Toyota bB) or "the box" or "toaster" was something different among its contemporary run-of-the mill vehicles. It would still fit that description today. Whether it was considered attractive or not, that is another subject, but its looks grew on me. I didnt' see it as ugly - just different. And like the GEO Metro, in a cute sort of a way. My current 2019 Kia Soul also fits that category. Different, but in a cute sort of a way. If I was driving in the '70s, I would have enjoyed owing AMC Gremlin or Pacer (just the looks only, not for reliability).

You're right. I do remember a Ford Probe being a Mazda derivative, AMC Eagle and Dodge Stealth being Mitsubishis, I think Dodge Rampage was also Mitsubishi based. Then of course we go back to the '70s. Didn't GM sell Opel-based cars badged as American brands? There is no such thing as brand identity. I knew GEO was not actually made by GM, but I didn't know it was Toyota. I thought it was some Korean or Chinese made vehicle. And to all who complain about the Hornet looking crappy, remember that it is actually an Alfa-Romeo and Fiat likely had a hand in its design.

Yes, the negative comments here are very likely from older folks who remember the original AMC Hornet (which was not all that hot either). We are not the car maker's target audience. Millennials and Gen-Z kids will not know or care about the Hornet's name history, or that it is just a rebadged vehicle. That is assuming that they have driver's license or even want to buy and own a car. Many don't even want to drive, and consider driving a chore, not a fun activity. Why drive when Uber or lift can get them where they want to go. Those are as close as their smart phone app. And yes, like pretty much all the automobiles made today, it is a rebadged Alfa-Romeo, which in itself is under Fiat's control. In today world, individual car companies pretty much don't really exist. Most (including exotic brands) have been absorbed by the giant car manufacturers. Badge engineering, where the same car (with minor visual or mechanical changes) is sold under many names seems to have originated in USA in mid 20th Century (or even earlier) and it is rampant in today's world. Unfortunate, but true. Heck, we even have competing car manufacturers making cars for another. Like Toyota Matrix and Pontiac Vibe as one example. I still don't know how that one made sense for GM to buy cars from Toyota, since they are rivals. Whatever it is, it's likely done to maximize profits.

Saw a commercial on TV for a new Hornet. The showed a swarm of them "flying" around. I guess since AMC was originally absorbed by Chrysler, they have right to that name.

Very well done! Even better that it depicts a vehicle you owned.

Yes they did (I have the kit). The 1:32 version looks really nice. It is such an oddball vehicle and I like oddballs.