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Everything posted by peteski
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The typical advice is (since you haven't mentioned it): have you tried to clear the cookies and cache in your browsers?
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Yup, here is mine (bought 2 bottles last June). This is the damage it did on the printer case where I tried to remove the splatter of Minwax urethane clear. The printer's case is bare ABS plastic. I placed QCS-soaked piece of facial tissue on the surface, and after about 5 minutes I lifted the tissue. What I found is that the surface of the plastic was almost melted - it was very soft and the natural texture was destroyed. I took the photo right after I lifted the tissue and realized there was a problem. It eventually dried, but the texture is ruined. If it works for you guys - that's great. But I won't use it on any styrene plastics again.
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What exactly is too long? There were no instructions or suggestions included. The gold painted truck bed was in for probably about 15 minutes - I was checking on it every few minutes. The other one was a very old Revell seat painted probably 50 years ago. On this one the paint was not coming of. I scrubbed it with a brush, then put it back in for another few minutes, and scrubbed again. When the paint was still not fully coming off but I noticed that the plastic surface was getting soft. There was another item I tried. I have a computer printer where some Minwax urethane clear got splattered (small dots). The printer's case is made from ABS (type of polystyrene also used by some model companies). Since I could not immerse it in the stripper, I took a piece of facial issue, soaked it in the stripper and placed over the affected area. I checked about 5 minutes later and while the splatter was not affected, the plastic surface was already "melting". Like I mention, the manufacturer contacted me mentioning that others had experienced problems and asked my for my input (which I provided). I will not use this product on any plastic or resin models again. This product appears to be designed to strip finishes from wood surfaces (furniture). I suspect that the version for stripping models is the same chemical but the bottles are relabeled.
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What did you see on the road today?
peteski replied to Harry P.'s topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Yes the color of that Vette is rather subtle. Almost like khaki camo. Probably helps avoiding police. I'm used to see cars in more lively colors (after all a Vette is an exotic car which should turn heads) like this: -
I also tried this miracle plastic-safe pain stripper. While it strips paint it also affects polystyrene. It seems to slightly swell it and makes the surface really soft. The surface was so soft that if I poked at it with a fingernail, it would leave an impression, and even a stiff brush left bristle marks. Fortunately I only tried 2 items, but I thought the items were ruined. Ever after rinse (with dish washing detergent), the softened items had strong smell of the stripping solution. I figured that I had nothing to lose, and I placed them on my furnace to see if they will "dry". The surface of my furnace is just warm (not hot). After few days the surfaces of the stripped pieces did become hard again, so I managed to save them. But I will never use that stripper on my plastic models again. Funny thing is that the company that makes the stripper emailed stating that they have heard of some modelers having problems stripping plastic models and they also asked me to fill out a survey. I did that, telling them of my experience, but never heard anything back from them. I'm curious about what recycling number your damaged plastic container had? I used a container made from polypropylene (recycling symbol #5) and it was unaffected by the stripping solution. Actually the stripping solution is still in that container (for about 5 or 6 months now) and it is unaffected.
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When things in my browser are weird or intermittent I clear the browser's cookies and cache. Often that takes care of the problem (getting rid of stale data).
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Not only that, but resin casting is an art form. Someone has to be skilled and fastidious to produce good castings. Norm from RMCoM or Don from Modelhaus are/were perfect examples. Unfortunately (as Ace-Garage guy Bill often reminds us), craftsmanship and fastidiousness have for most part become a thing of the past. There are many resin casters still out there, producing mediocre products. I'm afraid that once those good casters retire, good resin castings will be a thing of the past. Yes, 3D printing (either at home or someone selling printed parts) is the way of the future, but the quality is still not there.
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L*I*A*R*S Fall show cancelled
peteski replied to NYLIBUD's topic in Model Club News and Announcements
They're just bunch of LIARS, if you ask me. They usually attend the show my club puts on. They are good guys. -
3D Printed Wire Wheels
peteski replied to MrObsessive's topic in Car Aftermarket / Resin / 3D Printed
While those wire wheels with very fine spokes look amazing, why not make the spokes slightly thicker? They would still look good, and be mode sturdy. Probably easier to print too. Randy's wheels had slightly thicker spokes, but with the interlaces spoke layout, they still look amazingly well. I really wish these were available again. It would also be rally nice to have larger diameter 3D printed wheels for the '20s and '30s cars like Packards and Duesies. -
Alzheimer's is a type of dementia. Dementia is just an umbrella term for many types of brain disorders. Quoting https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dementia Several diseases and injuries to the brain such as a stroke can give rise to dementia. However, the most common cause is Alzheimer's disease, a neurodegenerative disorder.
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3D Printed Wire Wheels
peteski replied to MrObsessive's topic in Car Aftermarket / Resin / 3D Printed
That is very interesting. Thanks for the photo Bill. I assume that there are also bunch of supports for the hub. I also see that there are some print failures, but hopefully not too many. I wonder if the failure rate was what made Randy from Model Builder's Warehouse stopped making and selling them? -
Removing acrylics with ammonia
peteski replied to primabaleron's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
Since I already participated in this thread earlier and saw your advice, I simply gave my opinion, based on my experience. -
I've been dealing with my mom for the last 3 years. There are no meds which will cure this - only possibly slow down its progress. There are some stories I could tell you about what she does. The fact that she is also paranoid doesn't help any. All I can say that her problem is likely harder on my mental well-being than it is on hers.
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Removing acrylics with ammonia
peteski replied to primabaleron's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
True, it will remove water-based acrylics, but it will also attack the paint on the outside of the model. The question asked seemed to indicate that they want to selectively remove any overspray of the interior acrylic paint, without affecting the outside finish. Also the person asking this question is in Poland. Not sure if LA Awesome is available there. -
Yes, that has been covered. LA Awesome contains Lye, which is the chemical that actually "eats" aluminum "chrome" and can also soften the clear undercoat.
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Suggestions for a finish simulation sought
peteski replied to charlie8575's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Anybody remember Rusty Jones or Ziebart rustproofing systems? They were quite popular in the New England area in the '70s and '80s. I remember stickers on cars showing that they were rustproofed. But today's cars seem to be quite more rust resistant, even in the salty New England, even without any additional rustproofing applied. Whatever they do at the factory seems to work well. -
Yes, there is a concurrent thread about it with a more descriptive (than Huh?) subject line.
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Great tire side wall trick
peteski replied to Sidney Schwartz's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Excellent! -
Great tire side wall trick
peteski replied to Sidney Schwartz's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Looks good, but there is a possibility if that is an oil-based pant pen that the paint will never truly dry on a vinyl tire. Some sort of chemical incompatibility. That was a problem with (oil based) Testors enamels. -
Jürgen, most mobile devices will likely not let you resize a picture to something small enough for an avatar photo. Like Dave mentioned, you will likely have to send the picture to a PC, then use one of the graphic editor apps to resize it. Or maybe you mobile device can resize to a custom size? If yes, try using a value of something like 300 pixels wide. Or maybe you can download some graphic app to your device which will allow you to resize the photo? Another option is to do a Internet search for "photo resizer",and use one of the online ones.
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Mold lines in the sidewalls of rubber tires
peteski replied to TonyH's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Well, if the model will be entered into box stock category, then just use those tires as they are. After all, they came with the kit, and getting replacements is practically impossible. If you noticed, my tires have rather dull surface (as a rubber tire should have). I assembled those wheels about 25 years ago (still haven't finished the kit), but if I recall correctly I rubbed them with a toothbrush and some household scouring powder. It took some elbow grease, but I think they came out looking pretty good. Maybe if you did something similar, the flaws would not be as apparent. -
Just be very careful with lye as it is very caustic. Remember, in some old crime drama movies it was used to dissolve dead bodies. Not sure how true that is, but it will attack your skin. Also pay attention to the instructions on the container regarding how to mix it with water. And don't use metal containers to hold the solution. Just for fun, drop a apiece of aluminum foil in the lye solution to see what happens, and as I mentioned, the kit's "chrome" is actually a very thin layer of aluminum (much much thinner than aluminum foil).
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Mold lines in the sidewalls of rubber tires
peteski replied to TonyH's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Yes, those Gunze tires can be problematic. I have seen this problem in the past. And I'm not sure what material they are made of, but it is not the standard rubber often used in Japanese kit tires. It seems like some sort of vinyl/rubber hybrid, but not the same vinyl most American manufacturers use. I have the Gunze Ferrari 250 SWB kit which I believe uses the same wheels and tires, and mine does not have those flaws. If the flaws are visible on both sides I don't really have any good suggestions on how to repair them, other than replacing them with some other tires. -
It is different than the anti-pee spray, but the principal is the same - discourage the activity. I think the anti-pee spray is based on a scent, while bitter apple works through taste. If you get some, try it yourself and see how bitter it tastes. When a dog bites something where the bitter liquid was applied, it will taste so bitter, that most dogs will cease the biting. Most dogs are very smart and they learn quickly.
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I was following this thread and have to say that you did a superb job on this model. I also really appreciate describing your build experience. I have that kit and what you mentioned will be very helpful to me. Thanks!