SfanGoch

Don't bother. It was an old listing. It's no longer available. What you'll see when you click "add to cart": Sorry, the following item is currently out of stock: 1971 Chevy Chevelle SS 454 Hardtop (1/25) (See Description)

Why remove the trim? The military Chevys are 150's, as is the Black Widow. Both use the same spear trim. The Black Widow kit can be built as a bone stock version.

Yeah, you could; but it wouldn't represent an actual vehicle. The rear sheet metal and bumpers of the '55 and '57 models are completely different and incompatible. It'd be the equivalent of the Manufacters Hanover Trust AnyCar Anthony is correct about the side trim on both the '55 and '57 150 and 210 models. The spear trim for the '55-'57 Chevys was the same length for 2DR and 4 DR models. It only appears to be longer on the 4 DR models because the front doors are shorter to accommodate the rear doors. If Anthony was talking about using the trim from the relatively recent Revellogran '55 Chevy kits (Convertible or Hardtop) won't work because the spear trim is designed to fit into the the channel found on the these particular kits which would require a lot of tedious thinning because they are too thick. http://images33.fotki.com/v1074/photos/1/10655/5741271/DSC00003-vi.jpg Additionally, the spear trim from these kits has the paint divider molded on. The best sources for the spear molding are any of the old Revell "H" series '55 and '56 Chevys. The side moldings are very thin and detailed. If you can score one of the "H" series '56 Chevy kits, even better because they contain separate side trim for series 150, 210 and Bel Air models. I have these kits and the trim fits the newer '57 Chevys. After all of my rambling on the subject, I believe you'd save a lot of work by converting the Revell '57 Chevy 150/Black Widow into a 4 DR sedan.

From what I remember reading about this very topic HERE, Johan used injection molding equipment which was incompatible with what was used by the other kit manufacturers. This is probably why when Johan was folding, the molds which were still extant weren't purchased by the likes of Revellogram, AMT, etc. The extra money required to buy an injection molding machine which could only be used for the limited number of Johan tools available wasn't worth the trouble.

Don't sweat it, Doug. It's just hypocritical double standards and virtue signaling being put into play. The same people have no problem with casters who make resin copies of bodies and other parts using kits produced by assorted kit manufacturers and sell these items at ridiculous markups. Their justification is that the casters are providing a "commendable and necessary service" to the modeling community by making items that are hard to find or no longer available.

That was the original name of the band which would be known as Strawberry Alarm Clock. The members wanted a name that made sense.

Even idiots are entitled to an opinion. He's probably hammering nails with his forehead after checking the present value on ebay.

Don't feel that way. If you waited to find the the "correct" corresponding interior tubs just to be rivet counting accurate, you'll never get anything done. The correct interiors aren't going to magically appear on ebay.And, if they did pop up, they'll cost more than what you, or any reasonable person, would be willing to spend. Sure, you can do as Mark says and utilize the interior from Lindberg '64 Mopars. Ido that only because I got lucky that Model Car Mountain had a c_rapload of the interior/suspension/chassis trees on sale for under five bucks. That was over four years ago and I've never seen those parts available that cheap by anyone anywhere since then. I'm not a cheapskate modeler by any definition; however, I'm not going to buy a kit which for 15 bucks just to get a couple of parts and the rest will be nothing more than junk and unnecessary clutter in my home. I don't hoard junk. Just build them with what you have and enjoy what you create. Nobody's opinion here matters.

Unless you feel like performing surgery to make them correct for a hardtop; besides yourself, who's going to know or care, right?

Those tubs are correct only if they're used in '62 convertibles. If you have the hardtops, SOL.

The 300ZX s a really nice kit. Whenever I get around to it, I'm going to use the engine from a second kit and install it into an American Satco Nissan Pathfinder.

The Recharged Dodge SS Hemi Drag Car is a Dodge Polara 440. 1964 Dodge Dart.

It's a vicious circle. So you'd have to buy clear coat.

The front end of that Renault is almost a dead ringer for a 1942 Plymouth.

I pulled this from an ebay listing. It's a jpeg 1600x1200 pixels. If you zoom in, the text is legible and easy to read.

The tire size is 7.35-15. Shelby Cobra 289 tire and wheel sizes

That pretty much describes the "Car Kit News & Reviews" sub-forum. Most of the posts are about long deceased kits which essentially qualify as obituaries.

As Pete J. and I have said in previous posts, Alsa Easy Chrome achieves the same results, if not better. The Hobby Kit contains 2 fl.oz. of Easy Chrome and 2 fl.oz. pf urethane basecoat and costs far less than an equivalent amount of Mirror.

I spray it through my Aztek with the .50 mm nozzle. Lays down really nice. It also pays to shop around, Mike. Many well known online stores gouge their customers. One lists the 4 oz. bottles for 14 bucks. If one has the spare cash, the 18 tone sets (either 2 or 4 oz.) are great deals.

A 4 oz. bottle costs $8.07 ($4.71 for 2 oz.) from USA Airbrush Supply. Not expensive at all. I've seen people here buy lesser quality junk for more.

Get Stynylrez primers. They're available in 16 colors, including dull pink. They have excellent adhesion to styrene, dry rock hard and don't lift off if you apply a mask.

Brush solvent on both mating surfaces; this acts as sort of a primer and increases the bond strength. Clamp the parts together tightly and, using a hypo applicator, apply the solvent along the joint. This will allow the solvent to flow into the joint by capillary action. Repeat the process along the entire joint. The resulting bond will produce an almost invisible seam requiring little to no sanding. It's the same technique used by fabricators when constructing multi-part clear plexiglass display cases.

If you use a solvent cement, such as methylene chloride, there's no need to brush a liquid cement over that seam. Brushing the solvent over the area accomplishes the same result without softening the seam because of its fast evaporation rate.

Model Encyclopedia, a defunct site, was an excellent resource which contained more kit information than one could ask for. It was much more informative than Scalemates. Model Encyclopedia link courtesy of Wayback Machine.