SfanGoch

Testors 5301 Instructions at Drastic Plastic.

The model in the OP isn't even a Modelhaus repop. The guy selling it is trying to palm off a Johan kit as a Modelhaus resin. Check out the stamping on the chassis: Here are more photos from Pickclick. The engine is missing parts.

Yeah, they did, it's the same. If they didn't, how does one explain that the parts in the Modelhaus resin kit are identical to the Johan kit? Johan USA Oldies release Modelhaus

"Modelhaus" in an ad is like having a blank check to some sellers. They expect the name to add credibility to whatever amount they feel like selling the item, no questions asked.

Still a great build, Ray.

For any future builds, I recommend Model Car Garage's Corvette Grand Sport Detail Set.

interesting. However, slicing thin rings from aluminum tubing of the appropriate diameter would be easier and would create identical, uniform sized rings without seams to clean up. The only thing to be done would be to polish the rings on abrasive paper or on a sharpening steel to obtain the correct thickness.

That's the $64,000 question. Too much work involved in order to build something that is already available.

Posted 12 hours ago:

When googling, use this format: site: modelcarsmag.com atlantis hobby 2021 releases

There are a number of sites to check out, Brian. Tank Encyclopedia is a good start.

It wouldn't have worked. The Pz IV Ausf. J chassis, already overloaded and at it's limit weight-wise, wouldn't have been able to carry the additional 7.5 ton load of the Schmalturm. This is why Krupp informed Wa Pruf 6 that this combination was impractical.

"Pla", referring to Testor's enamel paints, has nothing to do with polylactic acid. Polylactic acid is a thermoplastic which is not a component of any type of paint.

And, you won't get a straight answer on the net. I doubt calling RPM to get the skinny will get to the bottom of this, either. The blokes what works there know even less about product history than we do.

Shifting trend?!? You need to get out more. This isn't some recent phenomenon, George. Model aircraft building has been extremely popular for decades, moreso than model cars. Just look at all of the dedicated model aircraft fora on the net and mags at the newsstands. The sheer number of available kits and aftermarket should make it obvious that interest in this area didn't just pop up from nowhere.

I know exactly the look you want. One way is to spray the body with enamel or lacquer flat black primer, then spray flat or semigloss black acrylic paint over that. After the acrylic paint dries thoroughly, take a nylon bristle toothbrush and, with a small amount of dishwashing liquid, scrub various locations on the body (hood, trunk, roof, etc.) with varying amounts of pressure while rinsing the body under running water. Depending on how much brush pressure was applied to a specific area, the result will be anywhere from a slightly semigloss to a worn dead flat, slightly chalky look that you'd find on a car that spent the last 25-30 years sitting outside.

Monty already indicated buying through ebay isn't an option because of the insane shipping charge ($20+ for one container). It's also a complete waste of time attempting to communicate with Revell via its Facebook page. It's like there are two separate and distinctly unrelated conversations are taking place when you ask anything related to product availability. Whoever is on duty responding to customer questions does his best to avoid providing a relevant and concise reply to a specific question. Essentially, you end up with the impression you were talking to yourself.

The objective is to create as narrow a kerf as possible. That means the saw blade must be very thin. A #11 blade is too thick to achieve it. You'll end up removing too much plastic which will require shimming the parts. This creates extra work because you'll have to cut, file or sand the shims to match the contours of the reattached prts. This saw possesses the identical downsides as does the #11 saw blades.This is the same kind of saw blade included in those hobby mitre box sets. A saw like this is used to cut tracks and general cutting. The blade is too thick for extremely detailed cuts. There is no substitute for purpose made razor saws. They have extremely thin profiles, about .20mm. The kerf produced by razor saws is the same width as the blade thickness, perfect for detail work. The same is true with using the back edge of a #11 blade to scribe panel lies or to open doors, hoods and trunks on a model car body. If anyone thinks this is the best method to perform the aforementioned tasks, you gotta a be a glutton for punishment. What happens when one uses a #11 blade? Regardless how lightly you plow (yeah, that's the right word), you are removing a large amount of plastic, creating a wide cut. Then, you end up adding plastic sheet or strip around the perimeters in order to make the freshly cut out part fit better, again extra and unnecessary work. Using a stainless photo etch scribing blade will eliminate that. Your cut ill be as wide as the scribe blade's profile.

The rivets are silver. Watch this video to see how they are applied.

I know that the rivets are molded onto the glass, Hugh. I suggested using these because you can place them directly on the existing rivets and not have to paint the existing ones.

You can also try Positive Rivets from HGW Models.

If you want faster evaporating, use methylene chloride, aka Weld-On 3 or Weld-On 4.

Aber makes stainless steel towing cable for AFVs. It can be used as a tow cable on a 1/25 tow truck.

Howaboutdat, guys? Snake mentioned something similar elsewhere.