stitchdup

I can smell canada burning from my house thanks to a northerly wind. we can see the smoke too when its clear. I imagine there will be some interesting smoke trails on the ice just now

If you have parts normally stacked like that one set of supports will have to start from the part which would mean 2 sets of supports to remove and clean off which would lose a lot of any fine details. At the moment the supports are under 1mm diameter and when you place the parts you make sure the face you want to see the detail on is facing up so the supports are on the glue face. if you tried to mount exhausts in the supports they would probably end up ruined from have 2 sets of supports as one set would have to come off the nice face

As the title says i've found a use for the left over supports from 3d printing. I needed to alter a chassis and since its resin i figured using some of the supports for pins would be the best material to use. Its worked well but its no use for smaller parts due to the size of the supports. I've also been using pieces of the supports to make dash switches and knobs. I think it has possibilities to replace straight sections of rod and the raft/islands may be useful for flat areas and since its pretty much waste it could almost be considered free!. I've used boiling water previously to shape some printed door panels so i'll save the raft from my next print to experiment with some shaping.

banger racing is the same as your demolition derby, the dirt track type cars could be from the hotrod racing series which used small saloon cars and 2 litre engines in the most commonly known racecars but there is also the early versions of the legends cars that are 2/3 scale 34 and 37 fords now mostly but the early cars were built from scrap. during the 70s it wasn't that uncommon to find old gt1 and f1 racecars cannbalised for other race cars such as big bertha (vauxhall firenza) supervan 1 (ford transit with a gt40 racecar under the skin and various others.

Most of the infrastructure for hydrogen already exists. its not difficult to convert oil storage to hydrogen storage. the problem lies with detecting leaks as with oil theres something to see while hydrogen needs to be in a huge quantity to be detected as a leak. there has been a hydrogen fuel station and delivery vans and trucks running locally for a few years now and they seem to be doing away fine. but orkney has emec (european marine energy college) based here and they are heavily invested in hydrogen. personally i think we have some choices to make regarding hydrogen, and some will shock green groups because i think we need to sacrifice some wilderness to wind and solar power in order to generate electricity to make hydrogen, then use that hydrogen for power generating and fuel. Use the existing oil infrastrucrure and save a lot of money, and also use up already poluted land that will cost billions to clean up. hydrogen is also a better option for farmers as an ev tractor will never be as good as something you can fill in 5 mins, and still be sure your existing equipment work. all the ev tractors they've shown have also been using ev equipment which along with an extra cost on our food prices means a much heavier drain on our electricity supplies. some heavy investment in detecting hydrogen leaks and we'll soon see it pushed as the miracle to save our energy supplies from the scourge of evs

could be a cool tesla powered rod, not sure where to hide the batteries though

you should have an option to scale the parts in your slicer. just select the wheel then put the sizes you need into the scale feature. be sure to turn off scaling all dimensions so you can input the sizes individually. i use lychee slicer and this option is part of the scale section on the lower left side block of options

All these protest groups are getting out of hand. I saw one today for a stop motion college

I've made up some new door panels but i'm going to scrap the handles and start over. I got them completely the wrong shape. The challenge will be getting them to look right and fit with the seats. I've still got a load of shaping to do on the dash but its getting there. once its right i can finish off the centre console. I've also reworked the trunk. i removed the floor and will be using the chassis plate as the floor. If i get it right i should be able to use the chassis fuel tank to copy a detail from the real car and have an opening flap over the fuel tank. I've reshaped the tank to move it further back in the chassis to help with this. I'm also working on the engine bay. I started by gluing strips of styrene together and then used the same to fill up the spaces. I then cut out a lot of the engine bay sides. I'll be taking the dremel to this later to get the wheels to fit again. then i can continue shaping the visible parts. It would probably be easier to scratch build a new bay but doing it this way retains the kit mounts for most parts and should make assembly simpler later as none of the mounts have changed. I'm using this engine for mock ups but will be modifying an intake to be close to the real car. As you can see the engine is taller than the body so i'll have to make a cowl hood. I'm not looking forward to that cos the plastic isn't very nice to get to stick, even using superglue. I'll probably give the underside of the arches a layer of epoxy around the edges later as i just dont trust the glue to hold. I've also fitted an iceman chassis. at the rear i cut the floor after filing it smooth, while at the front I've notched it ready for the chassis. Once i get the engine bay finished enough I'll cut the front off at the firewall and cut the chassis. I'm leaving it as late as possible as we all know how things can move before paint and i want to minmimise that possiblity. I'll probably end up replacing the front of the engine bay too and fitting a radiator as it can be seen through the grille, even though there is an engine cover that hides it from above. I've got to add some more depth to the sills. This has been done on the real car and will allow the chassis to be hidden and the side exit exhaust. I'll be cutting under the rear seat to get the exhaust in and will probably not be very efficient due to a lack of space for silencers but we'll see what happens when we get there

it a c1-models trans kit. i think they still make it.

i mis read it and missed out where you mentioned screen. my faulty memory stick caused my prints to fail until i changed it. It was like there was a bubble in the middle of the print or i'd get a layer or 2 where i got the full print plate size printed in the middle of parts

try a good memory stick in the old one, my photon did that from the start and it turned out to be a faulty memory stick. It did everything you described and had worked perfect since getting a new memory stick

i only use acrylic primer. most of my paints are also acrylic but on the odd occaison i've used enamel paint over acrylic primer and it worked fine. i use enamels for detail painting over acrylics too and that works too. the only time i had problems was acrylic over enamel and it was a complete failure. heres a little experiment you can do if you have both types of primer. spray a line of each on something and leave it for a few days. when you come back to it use the same paints and paint a pair of lines over the first 2 lines. ,i bet the acrylic over enamel is wonky and the other 3 crossovers turn out fine.

its the other way around, you can use some enamels over acrylic but but acrylic doesn't like going over enamels. theres something in acrylics that causes the enamel primers to soften again and restart the gassing process but it doesn't happen the other way around. maybe its just more porous than acrylics and soaks up some of the thinners. The tamiya paints (and some craft hobby paints) just confuse things by having acrylic enamel written on the jars. You can use duplicolour primers with the tamiya paints and so far i've found it to work for the majority of my paints, both acrylic and enamels

woohoo! scotland can claim buick, i knew the scamp couldn't be the sum of our motor industry, lol

I've actually got this back on the bench just now, i've fitted an iceman chassis to it so there more cutting and bodywork to come. I've decided against chopping it due to the kinda funky way the glass is done but that due to its diecast roots. Hopefully have some pics later today

feel free to post them anyway, a bit of inspiration never hurt anyone and you guys had soom cool cars the rest of us never got

your paints arent compatible with each other

those are cool, but bugatti is french

i think its one of the bat coupes

seperate but the way its done is more toy like than the usual kits. its only the top half of the engine but i think it would detail up nice and its not all part. I've only had the slammed kit though but i imagine the others are much the same.

It depends how it being built. If its something pro touring/euro look i go for new but if i'm going to be doing a custom it makes little difference but i'd tend towards a rebuild. I might still use all new parts on it though. I've got a few builds that have never been finished but they've still been complete rebuilds. One 39 chevy van has been a lowrider van, a chopped street rod 4 door bustle back sedan, a ute and now it very nearly a 37 lincoln heavily chopped sedan. Its never been painted but the bodywork has been near complete each time its rebuilt.

theres only one for the amt kit. If you plan your cuts carefully its not a bad kit to chop yourself if you plan your cuts carefully and if goes wrong you can always build a custom roadster if you cut the front last. Your going to have to stretch the roof so if you cut it about halfway along the doors for across the roof (might be an idea to glue in some temp supports for the front half) then carefully pick where to cut it at the sides, i messed this up and it caused problems trying to fill it. I cut the rear as tight to the body molding as possible and around the corners to where it gets flat. I try to follow the flat up the sides until it reaches the crown of the roof (pick this cut carefully and you'll save a load of work, i try to get it where the curve is about 3/4 of the way down when viewed from the side, get it right and you just need to trim the top edge of the window piece and dont need much filler. the sides you need to avoid the window frame curves as much as possible but make these cuts now and you should avoid need ing to use filler pieces as you can trim the edges to suit the rear window piece. You should need a filler piece about 5mm wide for the front edge but any scrap late 30s/40s body can supply pieces the right shape. Its easy to chop it too far so be sure to plan carefully. I hope this makes sense cos i never mind on the take pics when i do it but this works for most rounded roof cars from the mid 30s til mid 50s cars too if you lean the front screen back and cut close to the front for the across the roof cut.

I like the kit. I intended to build it box stock but when i saw toxicQ i just couldn't. I'll be getting another at some point, maybe the drag engined one so i dont need to cut it up so much, lol