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I have no cares where it ships from, my worry with the dental versions is they all seem to run 220volt mains and its 240 volt over here so thats my reason for not choosing them. I just dont want to cause fire in my home and I'm pretty wary when it comes to electric items having lost a kitchen previously to an electical fire caused by a mini compressor.

is it the correct ink? i'd suspect it before the paper just from how it looks. to me it appears the ink hasn't stuck so is probably the wrong type for the paper.

I'm in scotland, the cheapest dental formers are 150 and have to come from china. The former i was looking at is like a slot it together thing. it comes flat packed and looks to be about 10x10x10 inch assembled. Its the cost that has me looking at these formers. I wouldn't be using it that often so it doesn't need to be anything fancy or complicated. My half a'd attempts with a george forman grille were less than satisfactory, lol

I've been looking off and on for a reasonable vac former to do window glass with. I've seen kits to assemble your own and was wondering if anybody has one or experience with them. I've seen them in a4, a5 and a3 sizes but i havent seen any reviews for them. The prices seem to start around 40/50 quid for the a5 up to 150 for the a3 which seems like a deal if they work. I've only used a vac former once before in school so dont really have experience using them.

do you mean the parts pack engines from amt and revell? or the many varied options that 3d printing has opened up

Cool build, and a refreshing take on bug hotrods with the wheel and tyre choice.

car, car, car screamed the gulls as i was trying to sleep

there should be an option to scale the item in the slicer and it will probably work in percentages. I find this site useful http://www.scalemodelersworld.com/online-scale-converter-tool.html . down at the bottom of the page is the tool i use for finding out the percentages to resize with be careful too when rescaling items, down sizing them can make the surfaces of the parts too thin to be usable. andif making parts bigger surfaces that were smooth can become blocky

Well my previous employer has done it again. most importantly nobody was hurt. This time its the pentalina, which is the boat i worked on thats aground. reportswere of a fire in the engine room before it grounded. The biggest problem this time is the other boat is on a contract down the west coast of scotland for 9 months so there might not be a back up boat. It only got its updated safety certificate last week after 6 weeks in dry dock getting refitted so i expect there will be a lot of questions being asked of the mca and lloyds. As is typical the local community had a reception centre up and running before the passengers got ashore so there was hot drinks and snacks ready for them

this is coming along nicely, the proportions look great

If you dont have a bender or need a longer edge than the bender provides you can use 2 old exacto blades and a pin vice that holds larger drill bits. Just use the pin vice to clamp the 2 blades together with the back edges lined up and its good idea to file the sharp edges til they cant cut too. Next get your fold lines set against the blades and clamp the pin vice tight. now double check its lined up and if you are happy with it get a hard surface that will allow the part to slide (i like an old hard back book or back of a photo frame)and use that to bend the part. This works pretty well for longer thin parts and if you have a folder you can use it to clamp the blades in place of the vice. You might find you snap the blades to begin with but you will soon figure out where to apply the pressure to stop this happening.

its probably what we call a special on this side of the pond. Usually they are home built bodies on pre war chassis or entirely home built chassis. These are what we were racing at pendine sands in the uk pre ww2 while you guys were at the lakes. You can still find some of the originals being used in trials events or brighton but not many other places as they dont really have the safety equipment to be legal and adding it would ruin the authenticity. Its also got number plates so it must be road legal too so the chassis must be original to something like a t or similar and since its not a q plate probably only the body and engine have been changed (according to current vehicle liscencing laws)

hudson, there a kit of it available

It feels a little off to me. i read the about us section and it mentions previous problems yet has a 2023 copywrite date. Theres nothing overly obvious but the website feels like a free template rather than a real business website which makes me think scam. A real business would put in more effort at being appealing to the eye.

Japanese collectors are willing to pay out the wazoo if its something they need to complete a collection. If you ever get the chance to see japanese collections you'll see complete sets of each series, usually in new/mint condition. A japanese collector buying hald a dozen of the same rare kit just to assemble one perfect kit isn't unusual. During the 90s they were paying 30k for thoroughly rotten minis. If it was early they wanted them. I remember seeing a mk1 cooper, that i very much doubt lasted the boat trip, sell for near 90k and there is more metal in a tamiya model kit than this mini had left. Look what they are willing to pay for the first watermelon each year, its into millions of USA dollars for something that wont even last a month. Its just a different culture when it comes to some things

The front will drop once i trim the cetre console to fit the dash

I really was trying to build it box stock but after looking at the street machine website this jumped out at me. Dont worry, the front will drop down once i cut the centre console to fit the dash. Speaking off the interior, the only stock part is the interior floor. Everything else is either heavily modified or scratchbuilt. I was close to using the kit engine since its a twing turbo ls but decided to use a cut down 3d printed blackboxstl 572 with crossram induction instead since it was closer to the real car. I'm not going to chop this even though the real car is chopped 2 inches as it seems like more work than its worth, and risks this ending up in the spares box if it goes wrong. I am finding the kit plastic a bit funny, its almost like its not quite styrene as my humbrol and revell poly cements aren't always sticking parts. It has a tendency to fur up like polythene does when you sand too fast too. It might just be me, or that my glue is more than a year old now too

cool, not easy to find on this side of the pond

seperated at birth?

I've been working on one of these for a couple of days. Its not too bad imo. My hood and trunk lid werecovered in sink marks but some 240 grit sanding sticks soon knocked them back. I've ditched the front seats in favour of some from a bmw e46 transkit. I was going to chop it but the way the rear glass fits has put me off that plan unless i make new rear glass and door tops. I'm using this as my inspiration. I did think i was going box stock but i just couldn't do it. The chassis will be stock though

I think I'll be giving this another round of the gold. I've messed up an edge so before i clean it all off I'm going to experiment with the different clears i have. Duplicolour on its own causes the gold to fade to grey on the raised edges. I've just applied gauzy shine enhancer to the hood so I'll give that a couple of hours to dry, then i'll give it a coat of duplicolour clear. Once i find my jar of S-02 clear i'll give it another area a coat of it, then later hit it with clear too. I'm still hopeful it will work as a base or the candy, its just going to take some experimenting. I'll give some other parts a shot of the gold too so i can set them aside and do the same teats in a week once the paint has dried for longer.

didn't i tell you to bleh meh dah tem are words that end many marriages

It was printed on a anycubic photon mono x. Thie has been sanded on the larger areas as there was a finger print effect on the side panels but some 240grit soon knocked it back and then i used duplicolour filler primer

There might be slightly different teqniques people use but they're pretty much all the same. Whichever you feel gets you the best results is the one to use as everyone is different. I do the same thing as you with tape when foiling, and i never thought to do it for polishing