Can-Con

Jim, I know you'd rather the parts original to the kit but have you considered the headlights from the old Revell multi-part body '60 Vette? They're quite common and the bezels are separate with clear lenses.

That's exactly what I was thinking too.

I finished one, here's a link to it,, Here's also a link to my build I have in the works of 2 more of them, ,,And here's a general discussion in the kit news and reviews section,,

Also, if anyone has a spare '67 or '68 hidden headlight grille kicking around, I could really use it for a custom I've been wanting to do. [even the '69/'70 custom grille should work]

'67, hidden headlights, front signal lights in bumper under headlight doors. '68, hidden headlights, signals moved to front edge of fenders. '69, exposed headlights, fine grille mesh, small rectangles. '70, exposed headlights, grille with more prominent horizontal bars. ,,, BTW, All the JoHan Eldorados and Toronados used the same engine, the Olds unit. The Eldorados just had the "CADILLAC" script added to the Olds valve covers.

That looks great! Did you use the current '75 Dart kit to finish it?

My MPC '73 Duster,,

Well Bill,, First, is your frame 6X8 inches? I ask because it looks a bit small. Most plating companys want you to mount your parts on a 6X8 frame with silicone adhesive. All the parts should face out and have enough room around them so you could easily spraypaint the whole thing and get even coverage without anything being in the "shadow" of any other parts. LMCC recommends 1/2 inch between larger parts like bumpers and grilles but I think yours should be ok as far as spacing is concerned. Seems to me I was also told to keep all parts at least 1/2 inch inside the frame so they can clamp onto the frame where ever they have to then without worrying about disturbing any parts. I'm not sure if it was Dale at LMCC that told me that or one of the other platers that I've used in the past. I have mounted parts on a central runner like you ask in the past, I have a rack at LMCC done like that right now, as a matter of fact. Anyway, this is a pic of the last batch I sent to LMCC a couple years ago. Might be helpful to you.

Thanks guys. I put a lot of extra work in this one and I'm very happy with how it turned out.

The "Travolta Fever" Firebird came first. Based on a real car, it came out about '79 or '80. Pretty poor kit. Only differences I can remember between the Firebird and Camaro kits were the wheels, front and back bumpers and the hoods. Possibly the dash too. Watch out for those wonderful real rubber tires, they have a tendency to rot. LOL

Lots of modifications. Frame "Z-ed" in the rear and the front suspension sectioned up into the frame to get it this low. Pegasus wheels and tires. Front suspension made poseable. Emblems shaved off body and bed floor channeled up into the box a few scale inches. Tinted glass all around and rear window fit flush into opening. Rub strips added to bumpers and molded-in headlight lenses replaced. Revell '68 Vette 427 with lots of details added. Photoetch wipers and radiator cap added.

Cool. Good to know it fits.

Scout II.

Looks great. So, where did the '69 grille come from, resin or the diecast Blazer that was out several years ago?

Getting down to final details now. Hope to have it finished later in the week or next weekend.

White primer. FWIW, I've never had a bleed thru problem with blue, only the "hot colors" like red, yellow and orange.

I really hope you're joking about using those bodies for a monster truck dio.

RIP Henry Evans

Yea, I googled Sheffield Lake OH and it said your humidity was about 62% at that time. That's definitely high enough to do it.

Looks really cool James.

That's usually caused by humidity, and it doesn't take much either. I've found that if I hold the fogging part or body over a baseboard heater for a few minutes it'll clear up. Even just a hair dryer will work.

Despite what that article says, it's still just a Trans Am with suspension upgrades and a very ugly body kit. [BTW, what's a "305 Ferrari? ]

IF, it were me, I'd do it like Mark says, just graft the front part of the '70 front fenders to the '68's body. You may need to shim or trim the sides of the hood because of the width difference. I don't have a Revell '70 to measure but who knows? maybe it'll fit better. To be accurate, a Monte Carlo bumper should be used but I bet most people would never know the difference. The Elky's engine is actually really good, no need to use the Revell one and no hassle getting it to fit right. The whole interior is different except maybe the console. That'll take a bit of work seeing as the Elky's interior builds up off the floor with seprate door panels, etc and all the '70 kits use a bucket type interior. I understand the Revell snap kit has the best detailed interior so it may be the best donor for the front too. but you'd have to cut the hood from the body as it's a curbside kit. Also, you say you want Torque Thrust wheels ,, well the soap box derby issue of the elky is suposed to have a newly tooled set included in it.

OK, Here's a couple pics of the bumper from the '70 sitting on the '72 body. ,, looks OK to me. Not perfect, it is a touch wide but "OK". I did widen the bumper from the '72 and it's in the mail on it's way to the platers now as they were wider. As for the Reliable Resin piece, I just looked on his site and I don't think the back bumper comes with the body.