Can-Con

Posted just now Had some time to work on this again today. Did up the front suspension. Was missing one of the spindles so I made a matched pair from sprue. Found some of the right size to mount the wheels and cut 2 L shaped pieces. Then cut them to length with the posts that the wheels mount to up against the upper suspension arms. The I used 3 pieces of brass rod to make a simple steering linkage. This also had the added benefit of a slightly lower drop compared to just flipping the kit's spindles. I also ground a divot directly over the rear end pumpkin and did some trimming on the springs and their front mounts to get the rear as low as I was wanting. But I also had to grind some from the insides of the wheel houses to clear those 35 series tires. So, here's the final mockup with the suspension set and the paintwork done except for the final polishing and detailing.

Had some time to work on this again today. Did up the front suspension. Was missing one of the spindles so I made a matched pair from sprue. Found some of the right size to mount the wheels and cut 2 L shaped pieces. Then cut them to length with the posts that the wheels mount to up against the upper suspension arms. The I used 3 pieces of brass rod to make a simple steering linkage. This also had the added benefit of a slightly lower drop compared to just flipping the kit's spindles. I also ground a divot directly over the rear end pumpkin and did some trimming on the springs and their front mounts to get the rear as low as I was wanting. But I also had to grind some from the insides of the wheel houses to clear those 35 series tires. So, here's the final mockup with the suspension set and the paintwork done except for the final polishing and detailing.

I agree on both counts. As far as I can see, the only parts that would interest me would be the suspension and engine parts. But then again, I'd drop a small block in it and I can lower it myself. Does look good in black though. I think it's what I'll paint mine when I do it.

They look exactly like the Monogram Pro Stock 3rd gen Camaro parts right down to the tabs on the roll bar parts and color of the plastic. https://modelkitreviews.proboards.com/thread/284/monogram-reher-morrison-stock-camaro

Honestly, looks like a transparent paint was sprayed on it like the old Testors clearcoat enamel. That would turn yellow and leave the plastic slightly foggy like in the pics , , BUT, You can get new glass from the recent reissue of the "Allison in Thunderland" funnycar. It has a bone stock '69 Thunderbird body and glass in it. The glass fits the '67 and '68 kits too. I have a rebuilder '68 and the glass in it hasn't yellowed like that ,, or in any of my other older kits either for that matter.

If they do I hope they scale it down to true 1/25. The old Jo-Han kit was 1/24 even though it said 1/25 on the box.

Yea, the original box art was pretty ,,, ugly, I guess. And the custom parts were out of fashion even before the kit was issued, It does look much better on the new box art though.

Not actually an old promo, just an old kit originally issued around '62. Those wheel rims were originally plated and a lot of custom parts got deleted over the years. Here's links to a couple of the earliest versions instruction sheets on the Drastic Plastic club site. Neet to compare what changes were made over the last 60+ years. https://public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc/mkiba-build-under-c/amt-instructions/automotive-cars--pi/ford/1951-1960/amt-57-t-bird-troph/ https://public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc/mkiba-build-under-c/amt-instructions/automotive-cars--pi/ford/1951-1960/amt-57-t-bird-troph1/ ,,AND the infamous "Here Comes the Judge" issue,, https://public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc/mkiba-build-under-c/amt-instructions/automotive-cars--pi/ford/1951-1960/amt-57-thunderbird-/

The green one is not stock. They did not come with the ribs. Only the Nomad, which had the same trim as an Impala had the strips on the tail gate and it only came as a 4 door.

Also different intake and exhaust for the engine along with lowered suspension parts.

The Revell COPO '69 Nova has a bench seat in it along with the buckets.

It'll be interesting to see what you do with it. Looks like a pretty clean casting. I have the Jimmy Flintstone one which looks identical to yours, right down to the incorrect rear window openings and Yeoman trim.

Lots of those plates here in N.B. too. They're still legal , valid plates. ,,just all the paint has pealed off. I understand the province will replace them free of charge but I don't know anyone who's actually bothered getting new ones.

Yea, they did. I have a couple glue bombs and a couple unbuilt mid. '80s in the stash with those wheels. , , not great depictions of them bet they are there. You're right about only the first issue as the only one having the solid top but it's an '82, not '84. Had to get one for the body to make a replica of my 1/1.

Just perfect !!!

I wouldn't be a bit surprised to see a stock '70 based off this body announced within the next year or so.

If you're like'n that David ,,, "hold me beer" ? I ain't done yet ?

Custom grille, front bumper and hood inserts. Large wheels and tires. Lowered rear springs and front steering uprights, [IIRC]. Fuel injection and split header with dual exhaust. Here's a link to the instruction sheet on the Drastic Plastic Fotki site so you can compare,, https://public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc/mkiba-build-under-c/amt-instructions/automotive-cars--pi/chevrolet/1951-1960/amt-60-chevy-street-machi/

As long as you're happy with it James, that all that matters.?

45$ is the going price for current AMT/MPC kits at my LHS. Granted, that Canadian dollars but I see most current kits are hovering just above $30 USD in most on-line sources. The days of getting kits for 20 bucks are over. ?

If you mean you can't touch the Revell stuff, sorry but that's total BS. You just need to wait longer then normal for it to completely dry. Also you can give it a coat of Future after a week if you are really impatient. I sprayed this rad back in February and gave it a coat of Future a few days later. I've been handling it the same as any other part I would be using on a complicated build, meaning a lot of test fitting and it still looks the same as it did when I coated it. I also have some stuff laying around I had attached wheels to when I sprayed them last year with no clear on them of any kind and I can not rub the Revell spray off it or dull it by touching or rubbing it with my fingers.

Pretty well ready for some clear coat but I do have a couple little decals to apply first.

Been busy with work but I've has a few minutes here and there to work on this. Pretty well ready for some clear coat but I do have a couple little decals to apply first.

Have you seen this video, Mike?

I'd just tape them off one at a time and airbrush it. Super easy, all strait lines.