TarheelRick

That is one mighty fine looking Cameo. Your photography makes it look like a dealer brochure. Exceptionally nice work.

Really nice work, great idea. However I don't believe that would work on a full-fendered car unless the fenders were cut at an angle. Any ideas on how to hinge one like that, without having to cut at an angle?

Saw this one in the Museum of American History in DC. I am pretty sure the color is partially due to lighting around the display, but I don't believe a black car would reflect that much of a purple hue.

X2 Everything about this build really looks sweet. That fuel-injected mill looks right in place, and your paint work is outstanding.

Not sure about the compatibility of the three different kinds of paints, but I would suggest trying the combination on a plastic spoon or a piece of leftover sprue to see how it will work.

That could have easily been built in a late 50's-early 60's back-street body shop by someone wanting to make their name in the full custom world. The overall design fits that era of customs very well. Excellent work. One question, have you sectioned the hood? It appears to be thinner than the one on my plastic bag kit.

I have one similar to that, except mine has a much smaller blade. I thought it may be good for trimming around decals, but have not been able to get sufficient control yet.

Not the accordion pleat but the helical style. I know they were notorious for the seams filling with dirt and water then rusting; but it was much cheaper than getting real pipe and bending it.

Really nice build. The Mustang taillights add a different but personal touch.

Excellent rendition of a barn find. As the others have said the weathering is just enough and very convincing. My only suggestion would be to add a couple of tow eyes to the front frame rails so you could attach a tow bar like they/we used to do.

And I thought I was the only one suffering through this dilemma. Some very good ideas. I also use a cheap lazy-susan I picked up at a yard sale, which occasionally causes problems since the stand spins and so does the lazy-susan.

Back when I had my first 1:1 automobile, a '56 Chevy 210 with 6 cylinder and "tree" speed which I paid $100 for, some of the local hot-rodders used a flexible pipe for their exhaust. Of course it was not the most efficient, since the seams rusted quite readily. This stuff was one of J. C. Whitney's best sellers. Anyway, does anyone know where I could get something similar in scale or may some way to fabricate some. I need some to build an exhaust on a short track car I am building.

Excellent build, really like the way you did the multi-color scallops. Is that the kit engine?

Looking through this WIP I am reminded of the statement "How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time". Each piece of this build is but one bite of a larger overall build. I have often wondered how some of these awesomely complex builds come about. Your pictures show it is small piece by piece. Looking forward to more updates on this one.

Very nice build. Great job on those decals. Really like the way they did the exhaust.

Going to be a fun build to watch. Those were great times in drag racing. Anyone with a bit of mechanical knowledge could drag something out of the junkyard and with a couple of buddies help (and some adult beverages) build a competitive car. Long before the days of corporate sponsorship and "Powerball" budgets. Now, get back to the bench and progress.

OK, I am going on a small rant then asking a question. Several years ago on a thankfully long-gone forum I posed the idea of using some form of paper to add valve cover gaskets to a model engine. One of the more prominent members, (used to write for both magazines and build Italian cars), and his minions went into a tirade about wasting time for such a trivial addition as it could not be easily seen on most models. So I left the idea alone. Now that you have reawakened this idea in my mind, how do you attach the paper between the head and valve covers? I have considered white glue; your thoughts?

Really like those older FED's and this one is a real beauty. Great idea using white decal paper. Definitely one to be proud of.

Excellent build, would love to see some outside pictures to "light it up".

That is one beautiful A-bone, everything about it looks to be period correct. Would like to find a set of those wheels.

I have a few of the regular aluminum X-Acto handles, one being the first one I ever bought over 50+ years ago, and they still work fine. Older ball-point pens used to come with a rubber like sheath around them which fits the X-Acto handles perfectly providing a bit of cushion.

To be honest with myself, probably at least 30-40% of the kits I have on the shelf I really have little interest in. I am addicted to buying plastic, then after a few years of them sitting on the shelf wondering why in the world I spent good money on that kit. Some I will probably use for trade fodder, others may be pirated for parts, and some will be sold at my estate auction.

Mighty fine looking Mustang, love the color. Overall clean build. Two thumbs up!

USAF retired 1968-1989, was on Udorn, RTAFB Feb 71-72, Kunsan, AB Aug 79-Feb 81. Served in TAC (Pope, Seymour-Johnson, Shaw), SAC (Whiteman, Carswell), PACAF (Udorn, Kunsan), ATC (Keesler), AAC (Shemya), AFSC (Wright-Patterson), and AFCC (Tinker). Worked as Airborne Communications Repair, Welder, Airborne Communications Repair, Ground Communications Operations. Also Temporary Duty at Rhein-Main, Germany, Lajes Field, Azores, Elmendorf, Alaska, and Tyndall, Florida. Attended extended training at Keesler, Mississippi, Chanute, Illinois, and Lackland, Texas. It was a great 21 years, 2 months, and 18 days, some days I miss it and other days I am glad it is behind me.

Yes, originally it was a snap-kit, however when I got finished it had quite a bit of glue parts.