TarheelRick

9 up 19 from left, yep.

Thanks to hurricanes Florence and Michael I now have to spend another $4000 + (guesstimate) on getting my basement waterproofed. For many years one particular corner of my basement had been leaking when it rained. I finally broke down and had a company come in and fix the problem. They only did the east and north walls at my request (stupidity). We had never had problems with the south wall area leaking. The aforementioned hurricanes changed that. These walls are the ones I have my shelving for my models (they did not get wet - whew), all the shelves screwed to the wall for my power tools and other basement stuff, one corner is where my model working area table, etc. is located, and the other corner is where my heat pump is located. I called the company on Friday and they have not returned my call; I was on hold for more than 8 minutes before speaking to anyone, so I am sure they are going to be quite busy. They did an excellent job on the part they finished. One small light in all this is that I have already paid for the sump pump system and dehydrator so the only cost will be trenching out the concrete and installing the drain tubes, still not very cheap.

I think it might look pretty good although it would have been better using a lighter background. I think I detect a two-tone on the roof and hood.

It appears to me there are a few members here who believe they know everything about everything and are not open to the idea others may also have a bit of experience in the topic. I grew up in the early 60's as a complete motorhead. I do remember some nose-high (a relative term) drag cars, some that come to mind are the Chevrolets of Sox & Martin and Don Nicholson. The early magazines also ran articles on Gassers and some of them did have a somewhat nose-high attitude. Just to add a bit of trivia, some of the nose-high cars are optical illusions. If you put a straight axle under the nose of a tri-five Chevrolet it will normally have a bit of a nose-lift, if you then remove the bumper and grille, it will have a more pronounced look of being nose-high and it will be a bit higher from the loss of weight of the bumper and grille. All this being said to maybe get some of the harsh antagonism out of posts. And yes facts are facts, but it appears some are more unwilling to accept the FACT their facts may not be 100% accurate factually.

Quite often they will reprice them and put them on the "Clearance" shelf. I picked up a Revell T-bucket w/trailer for $7.49 at the local H/L, it was only missing the T-bucket - very nice parts kit for little money. Although not very common at Hobby Lobby I find this quite often at our local Michael's and A C Moore. At those stores when I find an opened kit I will take a glance at it and make the store manager an offer. I have picked up a complete Revell '69 Charger for 60% off, but I also got what looked like only missing tires '70 Chevelle for 50% off and when I got it home it was also missing the chrome tree and the major engine pieces. Pilferage has been a problem for many years, that is one of the mitigating factors that caused Rose's stores to stop carrying models and I will wager it also had some input as to Wal-Mart's decision.

On all the pictures Steve posted, at least the ones noticeable, it appears as if the engines may be a bit lowered in the chassis, thus meeting the 24" rule. I like gassers either way, nose high or level. To me they were the ultimate drag racing machine affordable by the masses of racers. What I don't really care for are the slew of altered wheelbase cars called gassers, when that is a definite taboo in the gasser ranks.

The most annoying to me is Dick Vitale, sports "announcer" for college basketball, all too often when my UNC Tarheels are playing. I used to turn the sound off and listen to the radio, but I discovered many times I was watching a different game than they were.

I used some on a car trailer I build several years ago and it look pretty good.

Nice save. Since I am not much of a MOPAR fan I didn't realize this year Roadrunner existed. Still a nice clean build.

I will try to help with my limited knowledge. First the /G and /GS difference; G indicates the engine is naturally aspirated (carbs, injected, etc.) whereas the /GS indicates the engine is supercharged. For the weight divided by displacement here is a link ( http://autohobbypage.com/specs/gen/ford40.html ) to the 40+ year Fords and it gives the weight of the stock vehicle. However, when building a drag car weight is the enemy, so as much weight as legally possible is eliminated, therefore you may want to drop the weight by two-three hundred pounds. The rule book then will give you a letter designation for the class you would fit in. Hope this helps some.

If I see a good mark-down at Hobby Lobby or a fairly good selection at Ollie's I can't help myself. I have not completed a kit in almost a year, but I know I have bought at least 10-12. Here is a picture made 4 years ago, most are still there and many of the holes have been filled with more kits.

I got a "California Step-side" kit for my 1:1 '74 Datsun 620. Never finished the build, instead traded it for a '78 King Cab. It was a fairly straightforward conversion. Al it required was a little bit of drilling and measuring to get it straight.

Crank her up, I want to see my computer screen vibrate. Beautiful build, overall very clean. I like it.

That is one wicked '55. Some really nice detail work in the engine compartment. Two thumbs up.

Good looking chop job and I like your overall vision of this build. One thing I may suggest is to open up the top of the windshield area, it appears to be too wide below the drip rails (just my thoughts).

A few I would like to get my hands on: 63 Pontiac Bonneville 64 Oldsmobile F-85 62 Oldsmobile Starfire - had two uncles that owned them, one was black and the other was silver All the 150+ kits I sold off in 1984 including the annuals from '60 up through the time I sold them.

If you are planning to scratchbuild a chassis, one good place to start is to copy one of the Revell Streetburner tri-five Chevrolet chassis's. I built a chassis for an Escort based on one of those chassis.

Excellent build, love everything about it. The overall end product is outstanding When I got to the side view picture, I wondered what had happened to the paint on the "C" pillar, then I went down a couple more and realized it was a reflection of the overhead light - whew!

Here is a set I made using solder and plastic tubing and shrink sleeve for the collector. They are not weedburners, but I almost exclusively use solder for headers.

Well alrighty then, are you done yet? Looks like a cool project.

Nice looking drag car, clean build. Way too many pictures.

Just completed a great trade with Modlbldr. Everything went well, no glitches.

In the earlier days of the AWB cars the frame and floorpan were simply sectioned the same amount as the rear wheelbase change. In other words if the rear wheels were moved forward 12 inches, then a 12 inch section of the frame and floorpan (usually under the rear seat area) was removed and welded back together. The six-point roll cage then provided some rigidity to the modified chassis.

Just completed a great trade with Thatz4u. Thanks.

Our local high school football team won their first game last night. Earlier in the season we lost to the cross county rivals for only the second time in 18 years; they also lost two other games. Last night's game was against a city school team (allowed to recruit) against our small rural high school (play with what you have). This game is a biggie each year. There used to be a bridge across the river that separates our two counties, however the state decided it was cheaper to destroy it than replace/repair it. When it was razed someone took a chunk of the concrete and made it into a somewhat trophy. Each year our two teams play the "Battle of the Bridge" for that piece of rock and bragging rights. Way to go RAMS.