Chariots of Fire

Now that the preliminaries are over I got down to doing some actual modeling. Getting back into it after doing the ship model I'm finding that I'm a bit rusty! Nevertheless it's a bit like learning to ride a bike or skate. It all comes back after a while. Here's were we are at with the project so far. Tires are all cast based on a 3D printed master. The frame awaits some modifications in length and the front axle and hubs need to be made. The tandem rear axles are completed. I like using brass rods and brass bushings for tires and wheels. I know lots of modelers who don't want the tires to roll but that's not me. So each axle will have tires and wheels that turn independent of each other. I cast up some hubs from the AMT ALF kit and then drilled out the centers. Doing castings, I don't have to worry about the thin backing. The casting is solid and the brass bushing fits snugly in the drilled out center. Biggest problem is drilling the hole on center and making sure the hub doesn't wobble afterward. So far so good. The IH cab is pretty good albeit somewhat thick in places. The doors will be scribed and cut away allowing for new hinges for opening. The hood will also be cut open for displaying the engine. In the foreground is the front axle. The turning hubs have not been built yet. Front wheels need modifying also but all in due time.

Details! Details! I love it! Scratch building offers so many opportunities to make them. Having the real rig to go by is a huge advantage. Doing something special, Jeff!

The biggest thing about frame construction is keeping it from ending up curved. It is very easy to do unless you are careful. When I have built frames I have glued all of the cross members to one side first. Then the opposite frame rail is glued in one cross member at time checking frequently to be sure that the first rail is not curving. If it curves you cannot get the curve out after all of the cross members are glued in place. So take you time of this part. Build the frame on a good flat surface also so that it won't be warped. You also want to be sure that all of the cross members are even and at right angles to the frame rail. Lengthening a frame is a different proposition altogether. First determine the amount of length you need to add. Then cut both frame rails in a place where it won't be obvious. I'd do this after the frame in its original length has been put together and the glue as set well. Then take a piece of plastic strip stock and glue a section of it to the inside of one frame member. Make sure it is long enough to overlap the new joint by at least a half inch on both ends. Do the same to the other side of the frame half that you glued the first one to. On one side mark on the plastic strip the amount you want to lengthen the frame starting at the end of the frame where you cut it. Now take the second frame piece and place it with the plastic strip inside the frame so that the end of the second frame is where you made the mark. Make sure the two frame sections line up and clamp the sections together. When one side is in alignment, glue the plastic strip to the second frame piece. Note this all occurs on one side of the frame. Then do the same to the other side of the frame after the first side glue has set well. This is where checking and re-checking is important to be sure that you don't introduce curvature in the frame and that both sides are square to each other. Make sure also that before you glue the second side that it is not warped. After this is all done you can add strip stock to the web and flanges of the frame where you made the extension. A bit of sanding and filling should make the extension invisible after priming. Hope this helps. Probably sounds a lot more daunting than it really is. Here's an example of a stretched frame I did for aType 0-5 crash truck. Two frames have been spliced with the white plastic piece showing. The other side has been filled with putty. And here is a better look at a frame I lengthened from a '26 AC Mack to build a Mack AP. On the far frame rail you can see the splice much better with pieces inserted for the flanges as well as the strip on the inside. You can't see it behind the fishplate but there would be a similar piece of strip plastic on the outside of the frame as well and would be the same length as the pieces used on the flanges. That would get sanded smooth with the rest of the frame web and the seams filled with putty.

How about that! Small world. I still do engineering consulting work for the Town of Mashpee. About 11 years ago I had some resin castings done by Tom Coolidge. He lived on Stuart Street in Denver. Not sure if he still does.

I' have a resin cab with an interior from Illini Replicas (I think) Got it in a trade. I'll do a little surgery on it though, to open the doors and hood.

Yes, It is! And how did you know that??

It's been a while since starting a new truck project. The Bluenose schooner was time consuming but now that it is done there is time to get back into some new rigs. In keeping with my fire apparatus bent, this is the next in line. An IH R190 brushbreaker that was built by Thibault of Pierreville, Quebec. It has long since been replaced but I was fortunate to get some photos and I have the R190 cab so we are good to go.

Yup! that's nice!

Fine piece of work! Can't wait to get back building trucks again!?

? YECH! ?

Thanks, Nells! The Autocar is different for sure. Lots of Maxims there.

Thanks, Bob. I will be glad to be getting back to truck building! Once the sails are furled, there won't be much left to do.

???

That looks just right.?

?? That's cool!

I was looking at the cab after reading the comments above. The cab is easily modified if you are willing to do a bit of sanding. Take off the two out of scale trim strips and replace them with smaller half round Evergreen. You can even adjust the windshield with a piece of sheet stock glued to the inside of the windshield opening. Fill it right in and use some Squadron putty or putty of your choice to fill in seams. After that is done re-mark the windshield opening in the correct orientation and cut away the sheet plastic accordingly. The rubber gasket can be formed afterward.

Yes I did! I get to "track" them all over when I do inspections for road construction.?

Can I make a suggestion? See if you can find a rear view of the sander body. To me the sides look just a bit too vertical. From the one photo you had at the beginning of the thread it appears that the top of the body sides probably extend outward to be directly over the outside tires back tires but at that angle I could be wrong...just sayin'.?

AAhhhhh! Scratch building! What a treat to watch. Tell me again where the front steering knuckles came from. Will be following along for sure. I've been out of site for a while with truck builds. This is what has been on my plate. The Missus thought it would be nice to have a model of Bluenose!?

A man after my own heart, Tom! I also appreciate redoing old builds. There is something about resurrecting one that is a lot of fun. This L-700 was a gluebomb at one time. The glue was so dried out it literally came apart by itself. I added the body and crane after the cab and frame were put back together.

That does look nice! There was a local construction company that used a lot of them with the chain drive. When I was a wee lad I used to call them "ching ching" trucks because of the noise the made when you let off the gas. Think I might have to get one!

That is pretty! An exceptionally neat piece of work and a great color. What Greg said! It's a fire truck!?

Fantastic work! Thanks for showing!

A fine piece of work, Tom. Congrats! Seeing it through is sometimes a difficult thing. A bit like climbing a mountain. Hardest getting to the top and then it's more like a coast on the way back down. When you do the Gradall don't forget that the bucket on the end swivels as well as curls!?

Suburban part was a resin casting. I used the p/u front end and blended it together. Tailgate opens top and bottom.