Chariots of Fire

I checked it out. You might be right about the headlights, Russell. Fortunately I have some good photos and some measurements of the headlight area so that I can carve them out. I'll be using some renshape for that since it sands beautifully and is easy to carve in any direction. Once the cab conversion is done I will be working on the grill section. It has a nice flat shape and I have good measurements for it. With that done the fenders and hood will come right along since they are going to have to fit the grill and cowl of the cab.

Began work on the cab. The shape is coming along. The A post is moved. Side sculpture on the doors is in place and I just finished cutting in the sculpture line around the top of the cab. Not quite ready for pix yet but when it is I will be posting.

Resurrecting an old build can be more rewarding that starting a new kit! Have fun with this one!

For a long time I have wanted to build an International Loadstar 1600 cab. They were used for all sorts of trucks from dump trucks to farm trucks to school buses and fire apparatus. The thing that has held me back until now is hoping that maybe one of the model companies would come out with one! Why they have never done one of them or a B Model Mack is beyond me. Anyway with some photos and measurements taken of the rig in the photo below I have begun to assemble information in the form of line drawings, checking and improving them as I study the Loadstar from various angles. Each time seems to reveal some little detail that needs adjustment. Looking around the kit stash I came across a 1953 Ford p/u cab that I think might be turned into a Loadstar. Using the dimensions, photos and the line drawings I'm now studying the Ford cab to see where cuts might be made and adjustments done to make the changes. The cab will need to be 1/4" wider overall so some cutting along the top and rear of the cab will be done salvaging the back in such a way that I can reproduce the sculptured effects in the back like the real one. The A post will have to change and by cutting away the fenders and reversing them left for right the sculpture line across the door and cowl can be done (I think!). Photos and descriptions will be posted as progress is made.

Looking pretty nice, Tom! After that is finished you will need to do a paving machine and display them on a new section of asphalt!

Thanks, Larry. I added it to my list of info. Every little bit helps!

Thank you Scott. That, in fact, could have been of some help to Jim Clarkson, a great 1/32 scale scratch builder who just finished a Pennsylvania National Guard unit bus for his Armory diorama. He did the bus as a GMC and as a Loadstar. I'll try and post his pics. I'm looking more for cab info as well as for the front clip.

I don't think it would just be a fender modification. I think the cab is taller overall and the hood is slightly different. I'll continue to check out your reference suggestions. Thanks!

I've been trying without success to find dimensional information on International Loadstar cabs of the 1960's. I have some photos and basic dimensions but really need some good hard numbers. Anybody know what might be available? Back when I was building the Dodge W300 I had the benefit of a 1970 Dodge Body Builder's reference book for every style and size of cab. It would really great to find such for the Loadstar. (PS) If I can find the information I will be scratch building a 1/25 scale cab.

It's clear that you know how things fade and wear! Top surfaces go first and you have shown that to perfection! Any chance you have a license plate decal you could add?

Look at where the top of the body sides are with respect to the doors of the cab. That will give you some idea of the perspective. Also in the top photo you really only see the top half of the tank. The body sides come up to the widest part of the tank. I see you used the Monogram Mack body sides. They are probably a bit small to start with. If you have an AMT ALF kit you could make up the body sides using this one.

To whom it may concern: I am the originator of the W300 and W500 that Oldr-n-dirt is referring to. Here are photos of the first pop of the W300 that Tom Coolidge did. The same master would be used this time. And the W500 was done using a casting of the W300 as a starter. As you can see the rear window is much larger, the fender flairs are bigger and the grill is altogether different. Both of these trucks went on to become fire apparatus models.

What is that? An old Bridgeport??

Tom: Don't forget to add water to the drum? That's pretty cool!

Check out the Tutorials on the Scale Firehouse. I think there is one there.

Another source of good connectors is Fusion Beads. Different colors and sizes down to 1mm.

I'm a scratch builder and have been for quite a while now. When I started back into building models I was hooked on the fire apparatus models I saw in the old SAE mags and the fire apparatus builders' column that used to be there. After building one or two ALF kits it was obvious that if I wanted to do something different it would mean cobbling together different kits (kit bashing) or doing something from scratch. My interest has evolved over time to building models of actual rigs that represent segments of history, both local and nationally. Maxim Motor Company in Middleboro, MA is no longer in business but in the day it built a lot of fine rigs and supplied aerial ladders to other companies like Mack and Crown. So for me that is something that I can model from a local historical perspective. There are other historical rigs that most everyone will recognize such as Seagrave and American La France and Ward LaFrance, Ahrens Fox, Continental, Buffalo and others that are no longer around that have a tremendous potential for model building. I use many different materials in my builds depending on the particular need. Lots of brass sheet stock, structural shapes, tubing, aluminum tubing, sheet stock, Evergreen plastic of all sorts, extruded plastics, resin castings, wood, and others. I build for the enjoyment of building but at the same time like the challenge of trying something new once in a while. 3D printing is awesome but it will never take the place of hands on craftsmanship in my book. Most work is done with simple hand tools but a Dremel, Sherline lathe, drill press and band saw are certainly handy. So what do I classify myself as? Just an average "joe" who loves model building and creating something in miniature that looks like the real thing.

Soldered brass to form the frame rails. When put together to form the frame it is a very rigid platform to do the rest of the building on. Plastic frames can easily be warped and end up in a curve if they are not carefully put together. The biggest problem is spacing the frame rails perfectly parallel and in the same plane.

I agree with what others have said. The PTO for the pump would probably be a push button on the dash that is activated after the truck transmission is put in neutral. Then when the PTO is activated the tranny is put back into drive to power the pump.. At least that is the way it was done on the Pierce pumpers that I am familiar with.

They've said it all! Nicely executed from one end to the other! The way it should be!

Why clear coat it? Use some Novus plastic scratch remover #2 and the polish and you will have a great finish.

Here are the photos of the air cleaners on the engine cover.

Try donmillshobbies@aol.com. He has treadplate in 4" x 6" sheets that would be just right for the deck of the truck. Evergreen plastic sheet stock is great stuff also as are the various structural shapes and tubular stock.

I didn't know Harry personally but did a small decal project for him a while back. So to have been part of his life in a small way makes it special. It's always sad when someone you know close up or from far away is suddenly taken. We can all take comfort, however, in knowing that God answers prayer sometimes in ways that we do not understand. His ways are not our ways and we only see those things "through a glass darkly". In all things pray without ceasing regardless of the outcome.

Nice job! The yellow and black paint scheme is just right! Love the heavy weight stuff!