Oldcarfan27

Here's some side profile and rear shots for the window backlight area. I've wanted to make this same car, but these areas seem very daunting to me. Hope they help you with proportions. Best of luck. BTW - I read that the height of the sedan roof is taller and more vertical than the 2 dr hardtop. Also note that the rear backlight has a complex, compound and concave shape to it.

#1 - looks like the back wheels from the MPC Street rods of the 70s. #2 - looks like the Revell 69 Yenko Camaro or 32 Ford street rod wheels. #4 - I'd say MPC Pinto, however they look like they have 8 lugs. But if you say they're 4 lug then I'll take your word for it. #5 - looks like the caps from the Johan 63 Fury, but that's just a guess.

Did you shake the paint cans thoroughly? If the pigment isn't mixed completely with the base, you can get problems like sporadic crazing. If it's just blushing (fogging), don't worry about it, just push on through. You can clear coat or polish and it'll all go away! The best thing about using automotive touch up lacquer is that, if done right, is as durable as a real car once it's completely cured. You can wax and polish it with real car products and the finish will last for decades - maybe longer!

Some guys have all the luck!

I like both. I don't know why, but the first one kinda has that Munster Mobile vibe. Second one is clean.

Thanks Mike, that's exactly what I need. Now I can see what parts I may be missing.

Yeah, but you put the turn signals on upside down! Oh well better luck next time!?

A very productive year. Well done!

If that's an amateur, you don't have too far to become "professional". Great job on all 3.

Are you going to use the S&H interior and chassis under it? Those parts are correct for your Tbird. (Except for the valve covers and air cleaner.)

Considering the original shape of the 72 Torino you started from, this looks amazing so far! You can't even recognize anything anymore from that car. I'm following along.

Because I have a bunch of the AMT Chevelles 70-72. And he said he had a 70, so I asked it for reference. I didn't think it was a stupid question, not everyone wants to keep buying all the Chevelles available.

I always enjoy the composition of your photos - the cars look so real!

That's absolute POWER! That'll keep those pesky passengers from trying to get some air while the driver is smoking! Seriously, great job on this classic.

Will the chassis fit under the AMT kit?

Everybody knows that. You paint it wood because it's a renewable resource and that its better for the environment. Duh!?

Now why would they make this product if color bleed was a myth? House paint manufacturers also make a primer that blocks dark colors in preparation for a lighter new color. Color bleed DOES happen! It has something to do with the type of color pigment and it's dominance over lighter colors. Belugawrx's pictures are a clear example of the red "staining" the multiple coats and various types of paints. Even with 3 different coats of paint, the final white color still dried pink.

This one ends in almost 2 hours. I didn't know it was sooooo prized. Its not even built that well. I wonder how long ago it was built - considering both kits are rare. Round 2 needs to find the Open Road tool - Now I want one BAD!

Spot on!

Instead of all the cynical, negative philosophical responses on "why that would never work" or "Revell would only sell old cars to old builders" - remember this. This is just a hypothetical idea, not a corporate addendum. Nobody's basing any products from our little discussions. The companies will make and sell models based on their own research. If they feel old cars will sell, then that's what they'll produce. The point of these threads is to inspire ideas and meaningful discussions. If it's all just going to be "that'll never work" or "they'll never sell those", then what's the point of writing in positive ideas?

I'm afraid I would have to respectfully disagree with you on this one Snake. I have 2 projects packed away somewhere that never got farther than the primered and painted white stage because the both came out tinted "pink". One of them was the Monogram 88 Mustang convertible, molded in red. I primered it in white and then painted it white - it dried with a slightly pink tint. Another one was a 94 Mustang GT convertible conversion, that I made using a blue molded coupe and a red molded convertible windshield post and conv top well area. I primered the finished body in grey and ONLY the red plastic areas turned pink, so I know that red plastic does have an effect on the paint.

I agree. I personally would call these the Revell "Slump Buster, Snap Series" ? I just wish they would do more esoteric subjects, rather than more common 57 Chevy, 63 Corvette and 70 Chevelle. What if they had chosen a 57 Cadillac or Pontiac, a 66 Corvette and a 71 Chevelle instead? Now that would have had my interest in building more snappers! BTW - it was a 77 Monte Carlo, although a 73 would be great too!

I like it, I would buy that.

But what kits would you bash these with to improve/simplify detail? I think Snakes topic was to get simple kit variations produced to mix parts with already existing detailed kits. Trying to get more with less. Maybe the companies could give us more of what we wanted if the cost to produce a full detail kit wasn't so high? I would be all for the Hasegawa American 66 series, if they had spent more time with the interiors. I could bash them with other kits for the rest. But I digress....

Can anybody help me? I have 2 Ziploc bags containing disassembled builtups of these 2 cars, but I don't know if they're missing parts. Can anyone provide clear, detailed pictures of the parts? Or instructions?