NOBLNG

Well I finally got these tail lights done to my satisfaction. ? They’re not perfect, but they are better than the kit pieces. I wound up drilling out the body with a 3/16” drill bit. I then added a sleeve of styrene tube slightly recessed in the hole to act as a depth stop for the tail lights.

I have a small (12”) press brake/shear/roller that I used to bend the metal. It could possibly be done carefully with just a bench vise and a hammer?? To get the angle bang on I used a combo square/protractor. I used the same method with a compass that you used for the perpendicular line to split the mitre angles when laying out these fenders. Here I needed 180 degrees from six 30 degree mitres.

Nice. I like the color!

That is looking real nice. I really like the ‘60s Pontiacs too.

Yeah, the stuff I have says it sets in four minutes (gotta out-do the 5 min. epoxy guys?) I will pick up some of the regular stuff and do another test, but I am fairly impressed with the Milliput. Thanks, Greg

Not technically model car work, but I modified my magnifying visor. I cut the lighting function out of it so the battery box would stop putting a dent in my forehead.?

This J-B weld you speak of...does it come in two tubes, or is it a two part clay type stuff like Milliput or Tamiya? I have some J-B Kwik in the tubes but it can’t be the same stuff you use. I did a test with the three of them and the JB is still quite soft after 2 days and can be peeled off. It doesn’t adhere well at all. The Milliput is rock hard and sticks well. The Tamiya is still a little soft (I can dent it with my fingernail) but seems to adhere as well or better than the Milliput. Thanks, Greg.

That’s COOL! Where did you get the cab? Is it a resin Copy?

I also got a good start on the tailgate. It took me 3-1/2 tries to get that “W” to look decent.?

I bought the AMT Blazer hoping to use the frame and axles. However, the axles are not near as good as the GMC pickup pieces and the frame scales out to be a 103-1/8” wheelbase. My truck has a 106-1/2” wheelbase, but for aesthetics I am going to stretch it to 114”. This makes it a lot easier to shorten the GMC frame. The GMC is 1/24th scale, but the axle width looks OK, so I don’t really care. I will be going for an overall look here, not technical accuracy. Thanks for lookin’.

Cool! Got any pics of it?

Outstanding!

Got a good start on the tailgate for my Willys.

That is really nice. I love the interior!?

I was a sheetmetal worker and welder by trade so I have a pretty thick skin.?That said, safety while cutting and grinding is always a definite priority.?

I’m not really sure yet. This is more of a general inquiry. I have a couple mounting brackets that I can hacksaw off and file smooth. I will look into getting some diamond grit blades for my Dremel if they are thin enough. I have been pondering the possibility of cutting it into pieces to make it easier to cast, should I decide to do so. Thanks.

Will an x-acto razor saw be up to the task of cutting a die cast Body? Or will I wind up having to buy myself a new saw? Thanks, Greg.

Thanks. I’m not 100% sure I follow, but I get that you mean I should make a guide to get the shape even and correct. Good thought...I was just going to slather it on and start filing.? Thanks. I have some of the superfine milliput and also some Tamiya epoxy and also some JB weld. I will mix up some of each and try them on the old stake bed to see which sticks best and feathers out nicely. I will lightly sand blast the area to be puttied also.?

Indeed, but what if you can’t find the appropriate diameter??

Thanks for the pic Dennis. That is one beautiful wagon! I have had no luck finding a casting of this cab, so this will likely be a one-off build. I’ve started work on the box, and stripped all the paint off the cab.

Nice trick with the two triangles Charles, I have not come across that one before. Ok, Back to layout basics... I need to make a 90 degree angle from 2- 45 degree bends (mitres). I made a simple jig bent from a sheet metal strip. It is bent at 90 degrees- 22.5 degrees = 67.5 degrees. I clamped it in the vise along with a large file. Slide the two edges to be joined against the file at the pre-determined angle and the joint (in this case) will be a perfect 45 degree angle. Once you have the proper angle bent as a guide, repeating the mitre angle is easy! Edit: A flat piece of metal in place of the file with your choice of sandpaper clamped between it and the angle may work even better.

This is why I leave the paper wider than the stick. It makes it easy to sand an inside radius like this without leaving any score marks from the edge of the stick.

Very nice!

Sweet. Love the colors.

My thoughts exactly as I was looking at it.